Hot Rods Type fan shroud and electric fan

Just disregard my post above, I didn't know he was dealing with a Ford engine. My experience has been Ford engines always running cooler than a SBC?

 

Be wary of the flex fans,as they have a habit of shedding blades.
Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
Leo

 

To answer Pist-n-Broke--- YES--I had a very NICE original radiator, fan, shroud with the running Y-block came with the truck--gave it all away did not need it-- shroud was way to large to even rework it---

 

Got it, so something close to that profile is what I'd try to end up with if you can.

 

If I put a mech fan or Flex fan will not be center of RAD will be more TOWARDS BOTTOM OF RADIATOR

 

Dead center is no big issue, overly Low could be a small one. The Hot water enters the Rad through the Top hose so with a Low fan your drafting less air where it's needed most. Some of this heat issue is about how much water capacity does your Rad hold and how much of that surface are you drawing cool air through. As you probably know I'm in the middle of my own Hemi powered 53 F-100 and I do things just a bit different than most (I think that's because I'm OLD). Top to bottom of your core how low are you talking. Does you new Rad sit as colse to the bottom of the Core Support as the stock Rad did? I'm going to assume your lower Rad hose is what's dictating the Fan size.
The Wizzard

 

Of what say true what some..air flow it must...do not waste waist..suck it must. No need you sing Aria...Just hum like smooth motor do.

 

Yes to trying it without the shroud. Just thinking about it makes sense - when you're moving the only air able to come through is through the fan hole, and when you're sitting with the fan on, it's only blowing through that little area.

Worth a shot.

 

Not having the engine set to center a mechanical fan on the radiator is NOT a defect. Each build is different and the assumption you set a driveline for fan placement isn't right. Is it a consideration during the build? Sure, but there often are other factors that make fan placement move down the list of priorities.

 

I was just looking closer at the first 3 photos up put up. It appears you have a well sized Rad for your core support. I don't see anything in front of it that would worry me. How large or small of a fan can you get in it? Something else. Your electric fan,, I have increased the air flow on that style of unit by simply removing every other circle of plastic in the mount basket. Those things are restrictors and cause buffering. The fan blades them self are a good design. Removing those rings will also quiet the fan a good bit. Food for thought.
The Wizzard

 

What I am going to do and replace
unknowns
Got correct QUALITY clockwise water pump-- replace the GMB one that might be REVERSE blades
Got QUALITY Spal 16 " HD 3,000 CFM fan-- replace the Chinese one came with shroud
Remove shroud put fan on radiator as a puller
Get lower rad hose with spring or ribbed will not collapse
Use old school GREEN anti-freeze mix with distilled water
----- will keep posted when all work is done and a few road test --- Thanks for all your help and advice --------

 

The car is slightly OT, but a couple of guys in a 68 Road Runner on Power Tour lost an electric fan (failed). Stopped and got an inexpensive replacement from a chain auto parts store. Got it mounted up to the radiator, not perfect, but good enough, and headed off down the road. A few miles later, car started running hot again. When pulled apart, the replacement fan was found to have lost the 1/4-20 nut that should have been holding the blades to the motor shaft. The motor was spinning, but that fan wasn’t moving any air. Don’t use cheap fans.



Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Hay Pal, Sounds like these are all good moves. Best of luck.
The Wizzard

 

Your problem is that your fan diameter is too small for your shroud. What you have is a funnel effect in that a large amount of air enters the radiator at the front but only has a small area to exit the back of the radiator though the small fan opening. The air that comes in that is in line with the fan opening passes through rather easily and unobstructed but the air that enters on the side will run directly into the shroud and really have no place to go. Visualize a wide river flowing into a dam and only a small outlet in the middle.
I would get the largest diameter fan I could get and try and taper the flat back side of the shroud so the air doesn't bounce off a flat surface but is directed into the opening.

 

UPDATE---
Got entire front pulley set-up off to replace water pump--- the pump that the vendor sent me was a REVERSE rotation instead of standard rotation like I ordered

Got my NEW Spal electric fan

Changed fan heat sensor to a lower one that will turn fan off at 190 degrees instead of 215 degrees

Will find out soon if all this helps

 

Hah. I asked about the impeller in #9. Gotta check everything these days.



Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

All back together finished up, ready for TEST drive--

 

Where did you get all your front drive stuff from? Pulleys, bracketry, etc.?

 

Having the right water pump has to go a long ways in curing your heating issues.
The Wizzard

 

All front parts bought from

CVF Racing-- cvfracing.com

GREAT people and they know there Fords---

 

Except they sold you the Wrong water pump.
The Wizzard

 

Thanks.

 

My $.02:
The water pump was your main problem- little or no circulation. The lower hose looking like it was going to burst was the tipoff. I would change the hoses to be safe. I'm gonna guess that the truck will cool decently now.
The fan/ shroud combo is less than ideal, but workable. If a larger fan can be installed, do it. Use an oem Ford or quality aftermarket name brand part. DO NOT consider a Zirgo fan!! Their "3500 cfm" fan will not move anywhere near that much air. Look at other brands, look at the correlation between current draw and cfm. Zirgo is a Hoffman group company, their entire product line is offshore rubbish.
Vent flaps will help at cruising speed. Some european oem's use them.
Always run a percentage of antifreeze, it'll raise the boiling point and lube the water pump seal.
Nice tidy looking engine compartment.

 

WELL ..... ????

 

DID NOT BUY THE WATER PUMP FROM CFV or IT WOULD OF BEEN CORRECT

 

That's good to know and for the others following to know. So how is your cooling system working now?
The Wizzard

 

With all this rain in the NE PA. I am finally able to get it out tomorrow Thursday for a good test drive--

 

Done good test drive with all NEW correct standard water pump, correct fan heat sensor and NEW Spal electric fan. Fan went ON at 210 degrees and OFF at 180 degrees at sitting at idle and went well as it should be--- Thanks for everyone's help and advise

 

My Willys (4WD pickup) ran that setup while I had it, it worked well. Ran it in the heat of summer, idling around and running it hard and the SBC under the hood stayed nice n cool.

 

I run a Spal fan as a back up and it went on yesterday, I was in heavy traffic for about 15 minutes. On at 195, off at 180 otherwise I'd be up to 220 without it. Good job.