Projects Barn find European '32 fordor

http://wescottsauto.com/

Click on Tech Information,then 1932 frame and you will see the specs for the frame but only it is in feet and inches

 

Thanks !

 

Fenderless

 

Looks good Harold. Looks like you are having a good time.Why do you need a front crossmember?Yours does't look that bad.

 

It was cut by a redneck.
But I'm thinking about cutting the part with the original engine mount.
Because I'll put a flatty with mounts in the waterpumps.

Another thing, my crossmember is welded AND bolted.
Is it the same on yours ?

 

That's a clear picture.Certainly repairable. At least its not cracked where the spring fits in.The replacements were for the most part bolted in.I have a '33 and the crossmember was replaced with a '34 and its bolted in.I will leave it that way.Its common thing that people replace their '32 crossmember with the Model A but you might have to box the frame and weld it in..I personally would pull it out and repair it then install it properly.

 

Félicitations pour une belle voiture. J'ai un V8 dans mon 30, et j'adore la façon dont il conduit.

Yeah...I speak French. So what? HAMB guys want to make something of it?

 

Any suggestion how to remove the body from the frame ?

 

What condition is the wooden inner structure ? ( for everyone out there Euro Fords are all wood inside including floor rails ) Probably just brace the hell out of it and then remove the doors to lighten it up. Shove two scaffold pipes under the floor and lift with 4 friends.

 

Floor rails looks not so bad. I'll try your method soon.

 

Don,t remove the firewall yet, do that later. Otherwise it will be even more sloppy.

 

Tout ce dont vous avez besoin pour parler ici est hotrod


All you need to speak here is hotrod

 

lift the body with the firewall still bolted on it ? sloppy ? did you mean floppy ?

 

I think that is what he meant.Once you unbolt the firewall and the body from the frame there is nothing really holding it to the body as its a slip fit(the center hood hinge bracket if not removed will help holding it) .You can temporarily put a long bolt through the cast bracket that's riveted to the body and connect it to the base of the firewall with a nut to hold it all together.

 

Back to the barn today to pick up my flathead.
It's a C81T.
Canadian Truck ?

So different of my French Flathead !

 

They are very hard to find. Yours can probably be repaired. I just rebuilt one last week.
Cracking is normal and can be repaired.
If your chassis needs serious work, bring it to me. I've rescued dozens of them over the years.
That front crossmember looks like someone welded the center of a Model-A crossmember into it.
I prefer to use the stock 1932 front engine mounts. This places the engine weight on the front crossmember and directly on your front axle. The side rails can't really take the engine weight without strengthening or transferring some of the weight across to the front crossmember.




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Thanks Edward. Good to know !

 

It’s also worth mentioning that they look so much nicer if you take your time , mount the engine off the cross member then shave the ‘wings’ off the water pumps .

 

Sure, I want a quality result.
I'll take your advices and fit the motor on the crossmember.
My french flathead need to be modified because the holes for the engine mounts aren' t drilled.

 

That is a small problem, but if your rebuilding your engine anyway would be easy to rectify while the engine is in bits. Can you find a spare block to use while your fabricating ?

 

The french flathead was rebuild by the army in the 90's and the truck didn t run after or few time.
Then was stored for 20 years.
Anyway, I'll bring it to a machine shop for some little works.
I' ll use the other engine for the mock up, this one is drilled and threaded.

 

^^^^^ geeeeez Harold, you were up early thismorning ^^^^

 

The body is off ! Thanks you all for your advice !

 

really dig the spare tire carrier & that bitchin trunk ! seems all of a sudden many of us are building Fordors...me too.

 

Harold how easy did the body come off in the end ? Did you end up putting in any bracing in ?

 

I let the firewall bolted. Remove the steering column, shifter, handbrake lever, dash, wood and steel floors, benches, and of course, the doors.
Then under the B pillar, with a jack, lift one side and place a wood block between the body and the chassis.
Then, the same on the other side.
Place a long wood stake 6cm square on the front.
Lift by hand the rear of the body and put the 2nd stake.
Lift the entire car, place wheels without tires and go down to place each side of the stakes on jack stands.
Only 2 guys (my brother and I), 1 jack, 4 jack stands and 2 long stakes.
Not so difficult to do.
I made a video but unfortunately, battery died before the end...

 

I changed my mind, and will not restore the fordor body.
Will be swapped by an all steel roadster.
So the body is for sale.
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/1932-ford-european-fordor-body.1118228/#post-12691807

 

Steel from Sweden,Ohio or real? Here is a real one in France sold new here in 1932.Not for sale

 

Don't know for the moment.
Sure in repro.

 

Nice Build! Top..........