11 or so years ago when I built my tub I didn't for put a grease zerk on the upper kingpin bushing on the drivers side due to interference with the steering arm and not having 90* zerk I would guess. Over the past 11 years and 12,000 miles the steering has felt great. A few weeks ago we trailered the tub behind the motorhome to Glacier National Park, when I took it off the trailer the steering was a little stiffer that normal but still manageable so we drove it around for a few days to enjoy the sights. When we got back home and I unloaded the tub the steering was unbearably tight so I figured I better dig into it. Initially I thought somehow the kingpin had been bent, but in the end I believe it was seized with gunk between the kingpin and the bushing. You might wonder how this simple problem cost $500. I rigged up a piece of square tube and a bottle jack to attempt to drive the kingpin out but it wouldn't budge, the camber has always been off on this axle but I hadn't dare attempt to correct it until now. On the drivers side while attempting to remove the kingpin I corrected the camber. I now realized that I would need to remove the axle to get the kingpin out in the press but I figured I might as well fix the camber on the passenger side before I removed the axle, long story short it wasn't taking the adjustment so I pushed it a little to far and broke my 1932 heavy axle at one of the drilled holes. Tonight I finished installing a new to me (their not making anymore) 1932 heavy axle in my car with fresh kingpins and bushings and most importantly a grease zerk on the upper bushing so it can be properly greased. Remember if you don't take time to properly maintain your car it will make time for you to repair it. See you on the salt.
Another lesson learned! Pic of the busted axle would be interesting - it was on the car at the time and you were using a bottle jack?? Must have been pulling against something solid? Doesn't sound like a home repair (attempt)??? Chris
This worries me with some of the bolt on steering arms, they cover the hole that the bottom zerk screws into-the same situation could occur. The only steering arms that I have seen that don,t are the Chassis Engineering ones that fit under the stub axle. Does anyone else make something similar now that CE is no more? Ash
I have a Red Green concoction of fittings meandering they're way out of that engineered nightmare of a location I don't even know how much grease has ever got there quite frankly as much as I tried so...fingers crossed. The other thing I notice is it feels as if the grease won't go in as if it is blocked. Perhaps that will be this winters adventure get the arm off and check the bushing is not out of position...sorry you had a raw deal...the other thing is I could heat that arm and bend it down as I think it would help better position steering components and expose that zerk.
With a 90 degree one I now have access, here’s a pic of the arrangement I was using and the broken axle. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I had a friend [died a while ago], that at one time had 21 cars in good condition and road worthy. He would register 4or 5 a year and drive the snot out of them and then 4 or5 the following year etc. As he removed them from storage and get ready to drive he would call the first ride to the gas station his $500 dollar ride because some thing would always happen, blown mufflers, rusted brakelines, bad fuel, leaky radiators, on and on. Wally loved his cars and could afford to put up with the hassle. RIP Wally. Ralphie
After seeing this I would question the safety of drilling a axle full of holes. It obviously compromised it's strength. And yes I know thousands of them have been drilled without failure. But it did crack at the hole.
I think it might have been a lot better breaking in the garage then at 60 mph on the road. Don’t care for drilled axles.
I have been against drilling axles forever. I know it has been done since hot rodding began, but looking at an "I" beam from a structural standpoint, by drilling the axle completely negates the design. Not me!
I'm shocked the axle cracked like that. First off, I was under the impression that the '32 heavy axle was beefier there than the regular 32-36 axles (although I could be wrong about that part) and also I would have expected the hole to distort before just fracturing like that, especially after seeing some of the twisted and bent early Ford axles I've seen which seem incredibly ductile. Very surprising to me.
Next time a grease “port” is blocked you should consider plugging it and redrilling in an easier to reach area
That's an option for sure but even then I might have to bend that narrow nozzle which may be do-able. I have to go get a photo. The steering arm is round bar similar to CK's. I have read of misaligned passage holes too (kingpin bushing to axle hole) and that may explain the pressure that exists that won't go away when filling. Grease actually gets forced out of the zerk thread. When you see grease forced relatively easily with squeeze out you easily identify problem pressure and little or no movement of the manual handle on the gun.
I was putting a lot of pressure on this when it broke, I don’t believe it would have failed under normal driving conditions. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I ensured the new bushings lined up to the grease ports on the new bushings, I also put all new zerks on and everything greased like it should. If only I would have done that when I first the car together. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Better re read the OP's first post. He was trying to fix the camber before he removed the axle to press the king pins out.
Maybe I lead a sheltered life but your's is the only axle I've seen where they drill holes between the spring perch and the king pin.
There was one a month or so go being discussed here for that very reason. Hotrodding tests the untraveled waters always. Your life is always at risk but after its in the wild tested strengths are modified to new horizons...remember that saying to live fast die hard...it sometimes can be applied to this hobby or interest.
With just a little effort , tiny effort in the big scheme of all things hot rod,,, Relocate the zerk In the original spindle, die grinder makes an angled flat spot and drill and tap. It's freaking hot rod FULL of modifications everywhere else, and it's Most likely not going to work without bolt on arms and it needs zerks
Maybe Ford axle is different, but the shop repair manual for my '37 Chevy coupe I-beam axle, specifically states (and the warning is all in capital letters) as follows: DO NOT HEAT CHEVROLET FRONT AXLE 'I' BEAMS TO STRAIGHTEN. STRAIGHTEN THEM COLD - HEATING THEM WILL CHANGE THE METAL STRENGTH"
I have only seen it done on heavy 32 axles, I wouldn't do it on any other axles. Some of the Rolling Bones cars are drilled out there as well.
The Jalopy Journal
