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Projects Learning the Hard Way Model A

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by 120mm, Jul 8, 2018.

  1. 120mm
    Joined: Mar 31, 2017
    Posts: 65

    120mm
    Member
    from Iowa

    Both my frame rails are profiled and welded up. Now to cut the kick-outs on them and finalize what kind of rear cross-member I'm going with. I've just about talked myself into doing a leaf spring on the rear, though the "easy button" appears to be coilovers.

    37962517_10215306090479983_5045565010533679104_n.jpg 37994887_10215306090079973_6470767895310761984_n.jpg 38029641_10215306089559960_7687309668141498368_n.jpg
     
    brEad likes this.
  2. 120mm
    Joined: Mar 31, 2017
    Posts: 65

    120mm
    Member
    from Iowa

    So, I am extending the frame 4 inches, and as a result, find that the kickouts on the frame rails won't work. Extending the frame puts the kickout point at exactly 31" wide, while putting the rear cross member right where it needs to be, width wise. I cannot find any negatives to leaving the kickouts off, so I am driving on without them. I can't imagine it will make a difference.
     
  3. Saxon
    Joined: Aug 9, 2008
    Posts: 2,157

    Saxon
    Member
    from MN

    How a car sets makes all the difference. Some can be adjusted with suspension.

    Curious do you have an end image or picture of what your looking to do. Lots of great parts!
     
    the grumpy.o.b likes this.
  4. 120mm
    Joined: Mar 31, 2017
    Posts: 65

    120mm
    Member
    from Iowa

    I have not seen a car exactly the way I want it, no.

    Honestly, I am incorporating lots of "Zen" in this build. I fully expect to build myself in a corner a couple times, since I don't have a clear end image in mind, but I see that as part of the exploratory learning process. The great thing about a scratch build is that you screw it up, you can unscrew it without hurting anything.

    As of today, I decided I wanted a rear transverse spring suspension. I've seen lots of ways to mount those, and will be dinking around with it until I get a stance I like. I do know what I like, though, and will know it when I get it there.
     
  5. 120mm
    Joined: Mar 31, 2017
    Posts: 65

    120mm
    Member
    from Iowa

    Took some time to pick up the 1/4" plate necessary to finish the frame. Then I cut out the major parts of the rear member for the frame. Working with 1/4" plate is "interesting", especially with nothing more than an angle grinder. I took it slow and was very well pleased with the results.

    38490599_10215348354416555_8748771549282041856_n.jpg 38406521_10215348417058121_6056168951266672640_n.jpg
     
  6. 120mm
    Joined: Mar 31, 2017
    Posts: 65

    120mm
    Member
    from Iowa

    Well, I read the instructions in the plans once, twice and thrice and then ditched them for the way I thought the rear transverse member/spring box should be constructed.

    I am well pleased on how it turned out.

    38612239_10215356507220370_855707585880260608_n.jpg

    Rod Plans had a bunch of hoo-haw about clamps and order of assembly, and using the end pieces as internal jigs, and I realized that a bunch of small square magnets, combined with measuring and math, along with constant checking would be faster and better. And I was right.

    It's just tacked for now, but so far it is square and measures exactly per the drawings.

    It's made from 1/4" plate, so I was a little leery about how my Harbor Freight Mig welder would handle it, so I beveled all the weld joints. I shouldn't have worried, as I had more heat than I needed, once it was adjusted correctly. The tacks are all the way through the parent material on both sides with minimum effort.
    -
    I'll finish weld it tomorrow night; tonight I drink beer and ride out the storm with my thunder-phobic hound dog.
     
    Last edited: Aug 5, 2018
    brEad likes this.
  7. 120mm
    Joined: Mar 31, 2017
    Posts: 65

    120mm
    Member
    from Iowa

    Finish welded the rear leaf spring transverse, and got a little present in the mail.

    38701840_10215365046393844_8953469089313980416_n.jpg

    Now, I suppose I need to get a couple square u-bolts and fabricate a pillow block that centers it. That doesn't look like much spring there, but we'll see once I put some weight on it.
     
    brEad likes this.
  8. theHIGHLANDER
    Joined: Jun 3, 2005
    Posts: 10,244

    theHIGHLANDER
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    You really need to column-shift it. Will fit the build to a T. Or, an 'A' I mean'...;)

    If I may, get on Craigslist or search some auctions or buisness closings as close to you as possible, get yourself a vertical metal band saw. The bigger the throat the better, if you can get an angled style like the latest DAKE, better yet. My favorite shop power tool by far. It notches tubing, makes identical rail/plate cuts, trims sheet metal and more. Buy the best blades possible, treat em right and they will literally last you for years. Lookin good, gonna be a cool A.
     
    120mm likes this.
  9. verno30
    Joined: Aug 25, 2008
    Posts: 1,148

    verno30
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Keep it up.

    Location? Where at in Iowa?
     
    120mm likes this.
  10. 120mm
    Joined: Mar 31, 2017
    Posts: 65

    120mm
    Member
    from Iowa

    Newton. I see you are Dubuque. Cool!

    My goal is to have a fully equipped shop to retire in. I will look these up, as suggested.

    I hadn't put much thought into shifter, though column shifters used to be super easy to find; steel prices has put a dent in the supply of them, along with EPA clean up of old junk yards.
     
  11. 120mm
    Joined: Mar 31, 2017
    Posts: 65

    120mm
    Member
    from Iowa

    I finally got the rails cut to length, squared up, and tack welded into a perimeter frame. It sure helps to have a dead flat floor with built in plumb lines. The sharp eyed will note in my last picture, I was 5/8" off on my witness lines, and so I had to shorten one of the rails an additional 5/8" to make it match the other. No worries; it was already longer than stock.

    38712005_10215382263784268_4170738802937036800_n.jpg
    I'm still debating whether to add the kick-outs or not. I will put a "K" member in it, so strength shouldn't be an issue. Once I put a middle transverse member in it, I'll probably cut the tacks on the rear transverse member and move it up two inches as well. But that is down the road. I have a rear axle to clean up and shorten, next.

    BTW, I was having the Devil's own time determining 5 degrees angle on the front cross-member and finally just gave up and tacked it in to where it "looked right". If it isn't good enough, it's only steel, and I have a cutting wheel, and a Mig welder and I'm not afraid to use them.
     
    Okie Pete likes this.
  12. F.O.G
    Joined: Oct 31, 2006
    Posts: 259

    F.O.G
    Member
    from Pacific,Mo

    Setting up frames, axles or anything can be done real well with laser levels, Black and Decker
    worked great when building my bucket, so easy to make degree cards, square and circular for
    reference. Get one and play with it and you will see the possibilities.
     
    120mm likes this.
  13. Saxon
    Joined: Aug 9, 2008
    Posts: 2,157

    Saxon
    Member
    from MN


    Zen is good. doing is better then not doing. You can spend yrs thinking about it. :)

    Get an architectural ruler, they are cheap. You can then build the frame with some paper or cardboard. Just for fun.

    Looking great! Like the Iron Pig too.
     
    Last edited: Aug 11, 2018
  14. Saxon
    Joined: Aug 9, 2008
    Posts: 2,157

    Saxon
    Member
    from MN

    Column shift hotrods are cool! :) But I'm guessing this is a less traditional drivetrain with the axle choice.
     
    Last edited: Aug 11, 2018
  15. 120mm
    Joined: Mar 31, 2017
    Posts: 65

    120mm
    Member
    from Iowa

    Yeah, the axle is problematic, now. But I'm going to push on with the 8.8, even though it doesn't fit in with the 322 Buick and the traditional look. I am thinking of vis-modding the axle to look like something older. If that doesn't work out, it will fit under my '67 Mustang, which is running an 8 inch with open 3.00 gears, and find something more traditional for the Rod.
     
    brEad likes this.
  16. 120mm
    Joined: Mar 31, 2017
    Posts: 65

    120mm
    Member
    from Iowa

    I'm moving forward on the axle shortening project. Tonight I clipped off the perches, ground them down and knocked off the bigger pieces of rust. For those people who suggest getting surplus parts from the local junkyard, you must not live in the upper Midwest. Every single piece of suspension part is rusted out, frozen garbage. Every one. I'd rather get a completely thrashed piece from CA or AZ that I need to rebuild than rusted out Iowa crap.
    39740980_10215477110515377_7946195406092763136_n.jpg 39846747_10215477110915387_1439278227045482496_n.jpg
     
    verno30 and brEad like this.

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