Here's a comparison with the last 1932 Ford pickup I built. Two totally different styles based on the same original truck. Sent from my SM-G935F using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Is that sunscreens behind the windshield or divided glass?? Great looking truck!! I prefer the original fenders the best.
What a great build @edwardlloyd . A glorious collection of early Ford parts subtly modified in the true hot rod way. I note that you changed the tie rods to dropped ones. Are they F100? Can't wait until your next build.
Congratulations Edward...time to go for a drive...I'd say thats 360 degrees of comparison. You have near a Hotrod for each day of the week...the only thing more exciting about this Milestone is you probably got something else up your sleeve. Thanks for the journey to this point...
They're available from Speedway. Dropped tie rod ends. Means you don't have to drop the spindle arms so far. Sent from my SM-G935F using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Actually no. I've got work to do but no complete build lined up yet. Sent from my SM-G935F using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
That's okay you've pumped out several stellar builds and quite frankly you deserve a little down time...I mean drive time...
Here are some interior pictures showing the original instruments including a working fuel gauge. (Thanks to Sheldon in France), the 1930s accessory heater and 1950s drive-in cinema loud speaker which is fitted with a Bluetooth speaker so you can play your favourite 1950s tunes. Also fitted is an original despatch pockets on the passenger kick panel. The final picture shows the untouched, never welded 1932 doors. So beautiful I decided it'd be a sin to cover them up with interior panels. Sent from my SM-G935F using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
These are the Blockley tyres from England, cleaned up with silicon. 5.50s up front and 6.50s at the rear. They're DOT rated to 130mph which should be enough;-) The wheels are 1935 16" Ford wheels, powder coated black and fitted with 1932 Ford V8 hubcaps. I fitted Dynabeads to the tubes so I don't need any ugly weights on the rims. The front fenders are made out of a 1930s spare tire ring. Make unknown. The rears out of new tractor fenders. All are removable and made to fit very close to the tire. Sent from my SM-G935F using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
This picture shows the Bob Drake 1932 Perches and Bill Stipes Houdaille shock absorber. Behind the shock I used Bob Drake 1946 front brake hose mounts, mounted upside down to locate the stock 1940 hoses which I sourced from C&J. I can recommend C&J for 1940 brake components. There quality is much better than others. The spring is a #1001L from Super Slide. Brings you really low on a stock 1932 front crossmember. The sling shot steering arm is from Superbell, reprofiled to follow the curve of the axle. Front axle is a dropped 1932 original I-beam located with unsplit bones. I wrapped the springs with accessory Model-A spring protectors. The shackles are reproduction 1932. You need two pairs per side because the reproduction spring eyes have the same diameter as the perches. The shackle bars are powder coated and the nyloc nuts replaced with castle nuts and cotter pins. Sent from my SM-G935F using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Here are some pictures of the rear end. Legal upskirt photos. The rear axle is a late 1932-34 located on a flattened 1932 rear spring, again covered with accessory Model-A spring covers. The shocks are Bill Stipes Houdaille. The battery sits in a tray which hangs off the rear crossmember and bed. The starter relay is rear mounted so that the long cable to the front is only live when starting. I also fitted a battery cut off switch which is good insurance against fire. The stainless steel exhaust is hard mounted and goes through the holes in the rear crossmember as original. Sent from my SM-G935F using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Underneath the truck are the chassis strengthening legs from Industrial Chassis Inc. I always fit these to stock '32 chassis. They also offer an opportunity to mount the mufflers, which are Smithys. I had to drop the rear of the wishbone 1" to get clearance to the 59A-B oil pan so I made up that extra mount of of scrap steel and an extra wishbone cup. The exhaust was welded together out of pre-bent sections, the welds ground flush and then polished. The 1940 Ford master cylinder is from Wagner. The torque tube is a shortened 1933-34 as I couldn't find a stock late 1932 torque tube. Sent from my SM-G935F using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Moving on to the front. I retained a stock 1932 front crossmember which gives you motor mounts. The Super Slide #1001L spring gets you as low as you can go. So low, I had to reverse the front U-bolts. The radiator is from Brassworks. Expensive but the best. I used a Spal electric fan to keep the truck cool climbing the Swiss Alps, which this truck will soon call home. The horn and front directionals are both 12V motorcycle items. Sent from my SM-G935F using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Outstanding. Edward your attention to detail is impeccable. That truck is too nice to get dirty. Thank you for sharing, many ideas for the masses.
Here's a little peek under the hood. It's a 59A-B V8 fitted to a 1939 transmission. I fitted Offenhauser heads and a new Stromberg 97 from England. The air filter is an original 1946 oil bath filter. The coil is from Bosch. The generator is a new alternator disguised as a generator. I fitted a remote oil filter on the firewall and a NOS 1950s headlight relay below it. The water pump engine mounts just hang in the air. The engine sits on stock 1932 front mounts. I painted the F1 steering box silver to try and reflect the heat from the header. Headers are Speedway economy. The fan is a large Spal which I imported from the US only to find it's actually made in Italy. Sent from my SM-G935F using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
The last 1932 pickup I built, some here will remember the build thread on here, just won "Best of Show" at the ESRA Euronats in Sweden this year. Best rod at the European Streetrod Associations annual nationals is a big thing and really made all the hard work worthwhile. I'm hoping the owner of the Babuska T will start taking it to a few shows as I'd like to see whether that would win a prize too. It's a shame the owner gets to keep the trophies, not the builder Sent from my SM-G935F using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
We wanted to fit a few extra instruments but I couldn't bring myself to cut holes in the stock 1932 Ford dash panel. I mean it's survived 85 years. Who am I to go messing it up. So I built this header panel out of a piece of metal shelving for the extra SW instruments. Stewart Warner have the best know name in instruments. Really famous especially amoung hot rodders. For that reason I find it a shame that their quality is so poor. Made in Mexico without any good engineering. I fitted the tach and wired it up as instructed but the tach needle bounces all over the place. Even when it momentarily stops bouncing all over the place it's still reading approximately double. SW really should build in the necessary circuitry to deal with all eventualities. I'm running a stock 1946 distributor with points and a blue 12V Bosch coil. Added to that, neither the oil pressure gauge or the water temperature gauge run correctly from stock Flathead senders. You have to buy the SW senders too. Sent from my SM-G935F using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
It is no surprise your builds garner awards. If it's any consolation I credit the builder whenever I get asked about my ride and if I ever make a showcard his name will be on it. Hopefully the owners of your handiwork do at least give that acknowledgment. Funny I just won a runner up trophy at a a near 500 vehicle show but really didn't get an opportunity to mention anything. Trust me I think of the fellas who were involved in my build a lot. So congrats again Edward...nice job on the Milder Hotrod.
Today it passed state inspection. So another hurdle behind me. Now I've got to take the engine out again @#$%€ The transmission is leaking more than is acceptable so it'll have to come out again. As much as I love 32 Ford's they really didn't think about the guy who had to pull a transmission out when they designed it. Those who know 32 Ford's know how much has to be removed first. If you don't know, perhaps best you don't. You wouldn't believe me anyway! Sent from my SM-G935F using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Nice looking truck! Tires look a bit chubby in the sidewalls, maybe a narrower size in order for my project. Tires will the one of the last things I buy. If I bought them now as rollers now they would be dry rotted by the time the car was running.