I was using a 50 grit disk and it still takes a long time. Now, I'm not pushing hard just trying to just skim the high spots.
One thing of note with the round metal disc blade shaved tires the surface of the tire looks pretty choppy which probably wears smooth quite rapidly once driven on.
I am extremely interested to see how well your technique works. My idea of using the router, was to use one or two of the 2 inch carbide saws, normally used to cut channels in wood for jointing. I like the idea of variable speed, and although I don't intend to do the math to work out the surface speed of a 2 inch cutter spinning at 15.000 rpm, and a 7 inch saw blade spinning at 3450 rpm, but I believe that I will have better control of the smaller cutter. I could also use a sander, but I was thinking that would be a lot dustier. Working the formula out, the cutting speed of the router at 15,000 rpm is 7500 fpm, and the cutting speed of the 7 1/2 inch saw blade is 6470 fpm. The variable speed of the router gives it a slight advantage. I was also thinking that it would be easy to make a cutter that is identical to the ones used in the videos, by grinding a knife edge on an old saw blade. This would have to be done slowly enough so as not destroy the temper of the blade. extra note: For anyone that uses a milling machine or a lathe, I found this superb site that has cutting speeds and feeds available for various materials and thought I would pass it on. https://www.wisc-online.com/LearningContent/mtl8202/MLT8202.htm Bob
All my milling machine cutters are either too large, 1/2 shank, or #3 Morse taper, so that idea wouldn't work for me. I was looking around and found some wheels with mounted tires that I can play with without fear of screwing them up. One step closer to giving this a try. Bob
Coker makes the Firestone bias tires in old Firestone molds under licence. Many of Coker's firestone tires, for instance the ribbed fronts, and the dirt track rears are made overseas, Taiwan last I checked.
You might try one of these https://shop.myerstiresupply.com/ER...1&parentLink=2100001027:3100012148:3100012291
Guys I can't stress this enough...be careful whichever method you do at home with homebuilt jigs and tooling. Remember it seems these machines cut to whatever profile the operator chooses.
I was not thinking of a variable speed router, mine is not. And I like your idea for a cutter. I worked on the tire more last night and we may all be overthinking this. What I did was use the jackstand to hold a marker steady, rotate the tire to mark the high spots. Then hit the high area with the sander. I know this sounds like a real hap hazard way to do it but it work out good, I could take the high area down faster and when you get a mark all the way around the tire you are done. Within 45 min I got the run out less that 1/16". I does make a mess but it is just rubber dust and cleans up easy.
YES, these look like they may do the trick but I think you would need a jig to hold the cutter, may not work by hand.
Most likely, the tires have developed a flat spot, if they're not driven frequently. Sometimes, if you drive them for awhile, they will straighten themselves out. But it's an uncomfortable procedure.. If there is a raceway nearby, there may be a racing tire distributor. They may offer tread shaving.
i am. Thanks for the link. 2) If the tire is just out of round, and not distorted off plane, then i wonder if a burnout would accomplish the same goal?
Over thinking things would be on my tombstone, if I was going to have one. I can't see how it would be a problem just taking off the high spots. I remember that flat spots from sitting was a common issue with biased ply tires, but I personally can't recall ever having felt this with radials. I remember that in the mid 70s, I bought a motorhome with biased ply tires, and it was like riding a trampoline for the first few miles on the highway. I replaced the tires with radials and that solved the problem. Good to know that sanding has gone a long way to solving your problem. Bob
I think the true test will be driving it at speed and all in between. If the tire is out of round burning out might make it just out of round with less tread and piss the neighbour's off.
!!!!! wish it was that easy!!! just came back from a test ride, NO GOOD, worse that before. I now think something is coming apart in the tire, I just don't see how making the tire more round made the problem worse. I'm ordering new tires. It was worth a try.
24 hrs no but I'm not a expert on tires. Our tractors sit most of the winter the 2 big ones anyways and they are also 10000 pluse lbs
Back in the late 80's I worked at a major tire chain store (Sears). They marketed tire truing as the missing link to make your car ride like it did when it was new. The machine they used would apply a load to compress the tire&wheel assembly to mimic the weight of the car. It would first rotate the tire under load and find the high spots for targeted material removal. Then the shaving was done by two metal grinding discs, one on each side - only the edges of the tread were shaved, not the middle. This is very different from the other professional machines shown in this thread. I'm guessing the older machines were designed for bias ply tires and the machine I saw was designed for radial(?)
The one video I posted where it looks to be tires typical to say and MG it looks like a radial tire he checked with the radius templates so I think they can do either. What you are also pointing out as there were several companies offering machines to do the truing based on their research and development in delivering a solution.
46...sorry that didn't work out. On a positive note your new tires will perform so well the past will be put behind quickly. Just another option to consider is if you become a Hamb Alliance Member you get a discount on tires and perhaps all the tubes and such from Coker and or other Hamb Approved Vendors and some cool Swag...
I had a set of tires do that and it was not mounted with the tire dot aligned with the valve stem took them to another tire shop they moved them on the rim aligned the dot with valve stem never bounced again. my buddy and I bought the tires at same time and he had to do the same.
I have never heard of this, in fact I'm not sure there is a D.O.T on my piecrusts. You are talking bias plys correct?
Just talked to a "Coker" guy at Louisville.....he said don't shave them, it voids the warranty. Just send them back!
Seems somewhat weird at this point: 2 years ago when I bought my 7:00 x 16" tires for my A, Coker told me That once they were mounted to my Kelseys they were no longer returnable. That is when I set out to find someone around Chicago who could shave the tires correctly and then balance them - no luck, even searching here and on the barn!!!
That's okay to new purchases but acquired used in vehicle purchase without a transferred warranty if it's even offered...different story...no matter what Coker says the loss of this service places a void in making many where warranty cannot be applied correct. As eluded the service still dots the nation however finding them continues to be a pain.
He also said that "road force balancing" doesn't work real well for skinny, tall tires, as it's designed more for modern wide, low profile tires. He said to look for a shop that has a Hunter 9600 or newer balancing machine and use its "Quick Match" program to balance their Coker Firestone tires.....and if this doesn't work, call them and send the bad ones back.
Coker let me send a set of tires back after I mounted them, and that was just because I did not like the way they looked. But that was back when I was an Alliance member. I think I had to pay return shipping, and I did not buy the replacements from them.
Make you wonder how they balanced them back in the 40's and 50's. The fact is, they just don't have the quality they used to have.
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