I’m building a 56 F-100 and have it tore down to the bare frame. I have hit the frame with a wire wheel on the outside, but the inside of the channel is hard to get to. Has anyone chemically removed the rust from their frame? What did you use? I’m redoing the entire truck but am trying to do it “lower budget” by doing all of the work myself. I don’t have the money to pay to have it blasted, but I have an entire laundry room full of new springs, shocks, brakes, steering components etc waiting to be put on. My plan is to paint the frame and parts with brush on tractor paint and then put it back together. Any suggestions on the rest of the rust removal? I’ve heard about using phosphoric acid. Can this be sprayed on with a squirt bottle? Is there a specific brand or name I should look for? More of the frame has been wire wheeled since the picture was taken but still roughly the same shape. You can’t tell really, but the entire thing has small surface pits. Thank you in advance for all help. Zak. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
I had my entire ‘55 Chevy truck blasted in parts. If I’d not had that done I would have wire wheeled the entire frame as clean as possible. Then spritzed with phosphoric acid, cleaned it and painted it with Rustoleum rusty metal red oxide paint followed by their semi gloss back paint. A lot of work but well worth it.
I bought Van Sickle tractor and implement paint and primer. I don’t care about it being show quality but I do want the metal to be protected and last a long time. I plan to keep wire wheeling it, but I’m assuming there will be places I won’t be able to fully get down to metal with a wire wheel. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Do you have a compressor? you can buy a small sand blaster for hundred bucks or so, the small compressors and blasters will do the job but it will be slow,the bigger the compressor the quicker the job gets done. I did our entire wagon & the complete frame with a inexpressive sand blasting unit. HRP
I appreciate the reply. I actually have a really small portable sandblaster and an air compressor, but I live in a neighborhood and want to try not to piss my neighbors off with the noise and sand blowing everywhere. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
i would sand blast the frame, years from now you will be glad you did have you checked into the cost of sandblasting? around here i can get a frame blasted for under $200 the frame under my `30 coupe i had sandblasted and powder coated for $450
Around here you can get a frame sandblasted for around a hundred bucks. At that price why try anything else?
I don’t have much money to put into it right now, but I have a lot of parts and time to mess with it. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
you say you don't have much money right now, but how much do you have in parts? how much will you have in it when done? i'm sure $100-200 will be a small percentage. save up your money/get a part time job....you will be glad you did how much will you spend on acid and wire wheels?
I have a few thousand dollars in parts, but those were purchased when I had the extra money. I’m a 27 year old dad and work full time. I already have a ton of tools, wire wheels, and time every other weekend. Do you recommend an acid or other chemical that will kill or neutralize the rust? I don’t have the money for sandblasting right now and it’s been sitting for several months waiting on this. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Most of the frame is already down to bare metal. I don’t think POR 15 will adhere. I have heard some people really like POR 15, but I don’t really like the idea of painting over the rust. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Try a rust converter I think Rustolem makes one type. It then allows primer and paint to adhere. Do not try painting anything without primer first. Converter works real good in those places you could never wire brush. Ralphie
Check out a product called Chassis Saver. I have used it several times and more than happy with the results. Just use rubber gloves and throw away clothes as it will not come off!
If you lived near me I would sandblast it for the cost of the sand and help cleaning up afterwards. A good blaster and you will never wirewheel again.Takes no time at all. I have blasted several frames in the past.Just did one yesterday on my F100.
Go to Home Depot and buy some Prep and Etch (this is phosphoric acid) found in the paint dept. Cost you about $20 for a gallon. Mix it up per directions in a spray bottle you can find for a couple bucks or use an pump up garden sprayer. Soak the frame and keep it soaking wet with the solution for 20 or 30 minutes. Then rinse well with clean water and let it dry in the Texas sun. It won't take long. If you have a white residue, spray it again and rinse it off sooner. Then when it dries, paint paint paint everywhere you can reach. I did this on my 51 Chevy car frame, used POR15 and it is good to go. I used less than a quart of POR15 on the entire frame. I then top coated with POR15 top coat paint. The POR15 doesnt have UV protection so i bought the Chassis Black top coat paint. Tractor paint should work too. Go to Tractor Supply for paint and be sure and get the hardener for the paint. You will be ok. Don't over think this. Just get 'er done! It's supposed to be upper 90s this weekend so you may have trouble keeping it soaking wet if you don't stay on top of it. Sent from 2 counties east of you!
Look up rust removal with Molasses on You tube. It `s not super fast like over night but the results speak for themselves . Non toxic and reusable oh and did I mention cheap? I have used this method with good results.
You say you have a small portable sandblaster and compressor? Use it! Your frame looks to be in excellent shape and 80% is already cleaned. Use your blaster to get inside the crevices and around brackets. Follow that up with POR-15 and call it good. If you keep it contained, blasting doesn't make much of a mess, at all. $3 at Home Depot will get you 200 sq ft of 1mm thick plastic sheeting. Use that as a walled barrier. Lay down a big HF plastic tarp on the ground and all blasting media will be contained. I live in a neighborhood on a cul-de-sac. Just finished blasting my roadster frame and the neighbors weren't even aware!
I bought the Phosphoric prep and etch yesterday and I had mixed results. Half the places went down to clean metal and the other half seem unaffected. I have a carport and I’m going to go get some plastic drop cloths and enclose it to sandblast. I’ll post how it goes later today. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
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