Hot Rods Type fan shroud and electric fan

Anyone have a set-up like this installed and how does it work-- my set-up like this does not do anything good at all--wants to over heat-- have AC condenser in front--aluminum radiator-- 16" fan and shroud, driving with cool air coming in and fan on still goes up to 240 degrees and still going up on my road test-- shut off ready to blow--- fan switch works goes on at 200 degrees off at 185 degrees , FAN is a PULLER but never gets down to that keeps getting HOT-- looking for advise or is it that big aluminum shroud not getting enough heat out ? ?

 

Looks sano! Is it puking? Have you verified the temp the gauge is reading to see if the gauge is correct? That looks like plenty of radiator and fan to cool a pretty warmed over V8. I'm not very good at internet diagnosing but I think you have something more than radiator/fan issues.

I do run a shroud and 16" Spal fan, but no AC.

Same basic idea you are running. Flathead (obviously) and while I don't have a lot of drive time yet I did have it out for some 95 degree stop and go the other day with absolutely no issues. I run 2 senders, 2 gauges and they are about 15 degrees apart, both gauges indicate about 10 to 15 degrees hotter than a laser temp.

 

In my experience cooling problems are 99.9999% always airflow problems. That is a pretty thin looking fan. My guess, assuming the water side is working properly (thermostat opening, pump is pumping ok), is that the fan doesn't move near enough air. With condenser in front of the radiator it needs a robust fan. Is there room beside and behind the engine for hot air to escape (no fancy shrouds or panels)?

 

Looks like not enough fan to me. You need a pretty robust fan with that condenser in front of the radiator.

 

If it were me I would add flappers to allow full airflow at speed. Old rule of thumb is if it gets hot over 30 mph it's a circulation issue, below that airflow.

 

sure fan is turning correct direction? how is fan controlled? as large of fan that you can get in shroud would be good - did you purge air from system? what rating & type of thermostat are you running? what is rating of radiator cap?

 

Are you running a thermostat ?

 

Where does the air exit? Hood on or off?

Specs on the fan? Make, model, CFM rating?


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Looks like you could go bigger on the fan.

I have a similar setup on my 37 with a lot less grill area for air to flow in. Works good, temp stays at 210F once it warms up and the thermostat opens.

Is your thermostat opening? Water pump moving coolant through the radiator? Impeller turning the right direction?

Has this ever worked, or is this a new build?


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I see the photo of your motor sitting in there and just have to ask Why? Why are you running an Electric fan? You should be able to see the issue. Your fan motor mount plate is blocking 25% of your air flow. That unit is a waist of your money. It is totally defective. Want to check out my comments? Take a piece of paper or a shop towel and put it against the Front side of your core and see just how much of the core does not suck the paper to it. You don't have to have the Motor running to do this, just turn on the Fan.
That means No air moving through that aria. And more that, it don't move air there even when your traveling down the road. That fan support is a blockade.
The Wizzard

 

I to believe the air is dead heading (highway speed) at shroud, flaps are in order or like P&B said dump the electric fan in favor of a 5 or six blade manual fan...............................

 

That fan looks anemic! In addition, incoming air is blocked by the big grille bars on the '55 and that monster A/C condenser. Here's a cheap junkyard alternative fan. Came off an '89 Thunderbird Super Coupe that ran a supercharged V6. $12.50 on Pick 'N Pulls half price day. Ran it in my O/T Mustang for years. I believe it measured 18" square by 3-1/2" deep. Not sure of the CFM rating but it pulled a ridiculous amount of air!

 

If its overheating when driving then its normally a radiator issue. if its at idle then fan issue.

Looks like a new system so guess no need to say make sure of no blockages & flush.
hell no I would still go ahead un-plug every thing and throw a heap of water through all components to make sure its its flowing correctly just to rule it out.

The shroud I would put flaps on. Just cut holes and get some rubber tire tube and rivit it on. Highway speeds the air through the rad will open the flaps but when you stop the fan will suck em closed.

A larger fan or at least a higher cfm fan wouldn't hurt. looks like you have a heap of room for a bigger fan or even two fans.

No air gaps on the shroud where the fan might pull air through instead of through the radiator? Air takes the path of least resistance so plug up any such gaps.

Is it actually crapping out water and coolant? if not then maybe the thermostat is poked and misreading.

 

Rule of thumb:-

• 100cfm for every amp required;
  
• 1,250 CFM for a 4-cylinder;
• 2,000 CFM for a 6-cylinder; and
  
• 2,500 CFM for a 8-cylinder

No amount of CFM will keep an engine cool if the radiator is under-sized or if too much of the grille-opening is obstructed. Run a lower temp. thermostat (175 degrees) and a high amp alternator as high-wattage fan motors require power.

 

Fan is a puller
Fan relay goes on at 200 off at 185-- went up to 240 DEGREES with fan on
180 degree thermostat
hood on
fan 2500 CFM
NEW build- 1 st road trip-- not good gauge went up to 240 degrees with fan on and driving--BOTTOM hose ready to blow off

 

That's hot.. is the electric fan your only fan?

 

guess as another test you could take shroud off and attach fan directly to radiator see if it makes any difference.
But i think the rad is just not getting enough airflow through it.
or maybe the shroud is trapping the heat in and not letting it exit. In what case you will need to add flaps like mentioned above.

it overheat when just sitting idling?
no - then its shroud needs vents and failing that bigger / better rad.
yes - then you need a higher cfm fan.

 

What brand is that fan? If its a Hayden or some other off brand other than SPAL or Derale, then its not true 2500 cfm for starters, A lot of the off brands say 2500 cfm but its not load tested flow pulling through a radiator. You deff have an issue that needs to be resolved.

Something no one has asked and I am going to.

First start it up, it should.... Get to thermostat temperature and immediately go down 5 to 10 degrees, does it do that? How long on driving does it take for such to happen? After it opens and closes the first time, how long before it gets to 200? What speeds are you cruising at when the temp goes over 200?

Experience speaking now, The flaps or relief holes on the shroud help, but don't flow as good as a mech fan with shroud, its a huge bottleneck and the E fan normally when its running will block air when you are at crusing speed. It basically will only allow what its flowing through with its motor running, Air wants to get past but cannot flow as freely due to the restriction. The late model e fan stuff flows the best other than a mechanical fan. My personal take is throw a mechanical fan with shroud on and sell the e fan at the swap meet and call it good with the information you have given, but if the answers to the questions I posed are a bit different than I think then we may have another issue all together, but all in all the current fan setup on the truck either needs major modification or replacement before much road time at all.

 

I do not have room for mech. fan and shroud --I tried that first on the build--I did not want to go a electric fan

 

Think about the engine. How much static advance? Is vacuum advance hooked up to manifold vacuum?
Both can affect the engine temperature.

Engine should not need much fan to cool when cruising at highway speed. Fan is needed when stopped.


Phil

 

Your problem is very interesting to me. I have been driving my convertible for well over 10 years now and have had overheating issues since day one. I run a mechanical fan have a good shroud plugged all the holes in the radiator saddle to force air through the radiator. Mine doesn't puke coolant just runs 230 or so with the A/C on down the road. Normally a 455 Olds will not run hot. I have been contemplating putting an electric fan in to replace the mechanical fan

 

Owning several 1940 Fords - I have had cooling issues. Current set up with electric fan - I run a 70 amp relay with a temp probe made by Vintage Air and a Cooling Components fan and shroud with a Walker Radiatior. On at 210 off at 190 - it is adjustable setting. The big electric fans take the power to run. If the wiring system is not up to the task - the fan will not spin as needed. My current fan has 2 wires for 2 speeds. I sliced together and run it at the full power mode. When you look at the volts gauge - you can tell when it powers on . My other 1939 has a 302 - 345HP Ford Racing crate engine. I pull a 18 inch manual flex fan off the crank (like Henry did in 1940) - works great and runs 180 degrees at all times. Keeps the Walker Radiator in the stock location. Both of these cars have a Walker in stock location. My local machine shop that made my crank mount is not retired and out of business. Space in a 1940 Ford with a original axel and small bock Ford engine is tight. You have a lot more area to work with, in the long run - run a RV type mechanical flex fan off the water pump like OEM with a proper shroud. It will cool the best and not fail like my electric fan has. I am on #2 over the last 20 years and 45,000 miles of use. Good luck - I know cooling issues are sorta like black magic with urban legend fixes. My 3rd Ford is a 1939 Ford that was my Dad's. Orignal radiatior spaced up about 3 inches off the frame to better center the 4 blade OEM fan on the 1964 300 hp 327 Chevy Engine installed in the later 1960's. Not on the road yet - but runs. I drive it around the neighborhood and no cooling issues yet. I will add a shroud - and a RV type manual fan vs the 4 blade. I have a 4 pound cap on the original radiator. The radiator sits up some - but clears hood... see pic.

 

Can you move the condenser unit forward to give more air movement around both rad units? Have you tried driving with the hood off? Your engine compartment looks pretty well closed up, maybe the hot air has no where to go. If the engine is allowing good coolant flow and air is getting out of the engine bay, I think you need a well made high CFM fan, maybe like a ZIRGO 3500. I run the same type of shroud with no problems on two cars. Lots of great options posted here.

Warren

 

I'm the guy with the heating crate engine. Finally dumped the Zips riser in favor of a stock short pump and a Cooling Components fan which has seemed to solve the problem. One thing I've noticed with my last several cars is that we have located the temp sender at the rear of the right head for neatness. The gauge will always read a little hotter because on a SBC the right rear is the hot spot in the motor. Locating the sender in the left upper corner of the intake manifold will result in a cooler gauge reading?

 

This may sound dumb but with everthing cold, lower the water in your radiator 1", leaving the radiator cap removed, start the engine letting it idle, if an automatic put it in gear. If you have a heat temp gun watch your thermostat housing and your temp guage inside when you know the thermostat should be open by the temperature look in the rad and see it there is any movement of water. Raise the idle just slightly and check for movement if there is some you need a smaller water pump pulley.
Fords typically bypass a lot of water, bypass hoses need to be plugged and 1/8" holes drilled in them. You need all the water to go thru the rad and not cycle around in the engine.
Whether people admit it or not our gasoline today is shitty. The same cars today that never heated up run hot with no changes.
Also tie some string on your fan braces and see how they blow out. Good Luck.

 

The Chassis builder that installed your motor mounts is the one that dictated if a mechanical Fan would or would not work. I think he dropped the ball and should be helping cure the issue up. It's part of building a Total package instead of just installing parts ala cart.
The Wizzard

 

Modifying a new custom high dollar part should be a direct insult to the manufacture and tell you just how inefficient that product is. Rubber flaps riveted all over the New Polished Alum. part is sure going to add some class to the New motor compartment.
Bottom line is that your motor should have been mounted high enough to run a manual fan and factory shroud but it's a little late for that now.
The Wizzard

 

If I remove fan and shroud I can install a flex fan if that would be the problem

 

A post above reminded me. Ford or Lincoln VIII electric fans will solve most of the world's cooling problems! I used a Lincoln Mark VIII on my Grandson's '59 Elky and cools great. Mounts nicely inside the '59 fan shroud. This thing will suck the freckles off your face. Also your shroud is pretty close to the radiator. As pointed out by another poster above, I think it could be hurting air flow more than helping. If it were me I would get rid of the shroud and either use a duct type shroud like shown below with the Lincoln fan or forget the shroud and just run the Lincoln. And the things are two speed if you really want to get fancy but running them on hi is fine.

They are available on ebaY.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1993-1996-Lincoln-Mark-VIII-Radiator-Fan-4-6L-DOHC/253441328737?hash=item3b0247c661:g:GQMAAOSwCFNbVdTf&_sacat=0&_nkw=lincoln+mark+radiator+fan+-fits&_from=R40&rt=nc&LH_TitleDesc=0|0

 

A quality and efficient fan shroud is typically shaped like a funnel with square corners and the Fan blades 1/2 in and 1/2 out of the round opening with 1/2" space between the Blade tips and the inner edge of the opening. Do you know what a Factory 53-56 shroud looks like? I have some and could post up a photo if you like. Not to say the stock one will bolt right in as your truck is now but might help ya understand a bit better.
The Wizzard