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Hot Rods 235 stove bolt....ran great then just died.

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by kmccann, Jul 29, 2018.

  1. kmccann
    Joined: Oct 27, 2012
    Posts: 14

    kmccann
    Member
    from venice

    Hello.
    the 49 chevy with a 65 impala 235 rebuilt in it, ran great.... then just died. It is getting fuel, air and there is current 11.56 to the coil. I noticed that the negative lead to the distributor is arcing on the outside. didn't have the tools to check for spark but will. I know a screwdriver in the plug cap will work, but didn't want to be reminded of my childhood (knife in wall socket) HA. All new wires, coil, cap, rotor, points, and condenser. But its a 65 distributor, I know they have a history of the bushing going out. any idea's,

    Going to get new points, and condenser... i've had problems with condensers on this one before. is anything made in America anymore? ....
    will keep you posted.
    and any help will be appreciated
     
    camer2 and Truck64 like this.
  2. henry29
    Joined: Sep 5, 2007
    Posts: 2,878

    henry29
    Member

    If the wire to the distributor grounds out it won't run.
     
    tb33anda3rd and ClayMart like this.
  3. Check the primary wire. (The little thin one, usually black, at the underside of the distributor, not the fatboy from the coil.) They can develop breaks in continuity anywhere inside the insulation of the wire or the connectors on these older distributors.
     
    ClayMart likes this.
  4. Mr48chev
    Joined: Dec 28, 2007
    Posts: 33,948

    Mr48chev
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    65 Impala didn't come with a 235 is the distributor in the middle of the side of the engine or close to the front.?
    If the lead from the coil to the distributor is shorting out that is probably your problem. Old wire bad insulation = short if it gets in contact with metal.
     
    6inarow likes this.

  5. TagMan
    Joined: Dec 12, 2002
    Posts: 6,300

    TagMan
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Had two times the 235 in my '37 Chevy just stopped in 30-years of driving it.

    First time there was a thin coat of corrosion on the distributor rotor. Just installed a new cap & rotor which I always carry with me, and kept on driving.

    The 2nd time, the big wire from the coil to the distributor, just fell out. Opened the hood, saw it had come out, re-inserted it and kept on my way.
     
  6. Johnny Gee
    Joined: Dec 3, 2009
    Posts: 12,666

    Johnny Gee
    Member
    from Downey, Ca

    Does the rotor turn while cranking engine over?
     
    JC Sparks likes this.
  7. 59Tele
    Joined: Feb 5, 2016
    Posts: 129

    59Tele

    Ballast resistor or lack thereof? If your coil doesn't have an internal resistor you need the one that mounts on your firewall or the points get cooked. I believe they were meant to drop the voltage to about 1.5 volts so points don't burn but were bypassed when cranking the starter.
     
    Last edited: Jul 29, 2018
  8. kmccann
    Joined: Oct 27, 2012
    Posts: 14

    kmccann
    Member
    from venice

    its closer to the front....... will have to check the numbers on the block to see what year it is... Thanks
    it has an internal. the external was dropping the voltage so low it wouldn't start. took off the external and she fired. will check the little black wire and see if dist. turns....

    thanks to everyone. outside eyes or minds always makes me slow down....
     
  9. BAM! There it is! ;)

    The later I-6 distributors were in fact prone to bushing wear though you usually got a little warning in that they didn't want to idle but they still seemed to go down the road OK. They used a single longer bushing in the middle of the distributor housing bore instead of two shorter bushings at both the top and bottom of the distributor.
     

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