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Technical Big paint problem

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by Justin in PA, Jul 16, 2018.

  1. Justin in PA
    Joined: Sep 27, 2017
    Posts: 127

    Justin in PA
    Member

    I wet sanded and buffed the hood (with the Nason SS) tonight and it looks great. I'll check back at NAPA and find out if they received any feedback on the problem and will post if I get any information.
     
    Squablow and Bugguts like this.
  2. ol'stinky
    Joined: Oct 3, 2010
    Posts: 377

    ol'stinky
    Member
    from New Jersey

    it looks like you just burned through.
     
  3. Do you need to sand and buff the onestage paint?
     
  4. Depends
    That’s how you remove boo boos
     
  5. Blade58
    Joined: Mar 5, 2012
    Posts: 363

    Blade58
    Member
    from apopka ,Fl

    My PPG rep for 35 yrs. advised me to use Omni single stage instead of the Platinum line as it had a better shine, he seen to many resort to clear coat and would have been cheaper to go BC/CC , went with Omni but used the Platinum hardener and reducer shines really nice people asked me how many coats of clear I reply None you should see the look on there face, the only clear is on the belt line for the air brushing , it has not been wet sanded and buffed except for the hood and fenders IMG_0910.JPG
     
  6. Ford blue blood
    Joined: Jan 4, 2009
    Posts: 758

    Ford blue blood
    Member

    Single stage, no rubbing, no buffing. As stated before, tip, mix, pressure, and application. This is BASF. Have worked with MS, SW, DuPont, and mail order paints and have had good results with all. I feel the key is stay with the same product from metal to top coat.
     

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  7. big bird
    Joined: Feb 16, 2014
    Posts: 160

    big bird
    Member

    Problem with modern BC/CC is not only the "Plastic" look, it's also the way light hits it and makes the white highlights.
    Old-fashioned lacquer didn't do that when cleared/rubbed out.
     
  8. 1-SHOT
    Joined: Sep 23, 2014
    Posts: 2,700

    1-SHOT
    Member
    from Denton

    The VP protection in the clear will give you a color shift. When you look into the can at the clear the yellow tint or the green tint is the UV protection in the clear the more tint the more it affects color shift especially on light and white colors. That's why you can get the plastic look on dark colors. Because it's like looking thru a plastic wrap like they use in shipping.
    I hope this clears it up. They use to have a Enamel Clear if you used hardner in it you could color sand and buff.
     
  9. Blade58
    Joined: Mar 5, 2012
    Posts: 363

    Blade58
    Member
    from apopka ,Fl

    No, if you want orange peel free look you do,a good painter can lay down a nice finish that won't require buffing, a lot of factors involve to accomplish this goal, temp,reducer type,air pressure,humidity; etc
     
  10. dang skippy
    especially that reducer part
    with using PPG Shopline, I like the paint, but it lays down much better with the higher line reducer
    I dont like the cheap generic reducers either
     
  11. 1-SHOT
    Joined: Sep 23, 2014
    Posts: 2,700

    1-SHOT
    Member
    from Denton

    Blade 58 got it correct. It's cheaper to have a pro paint it than the cost of materials for a re du .
     
  12. Poverty cap
    Joined: Mar 11, 2017
    Posts: 69

    Poverty cap
    Member

    I have found the plastic look that's talked about a lot is what I have heard called puddling. it is the effect of the paint having small ripples in it due to the high solid urethane single stage or clear coats that tend to be heavy or thick and not having paint gun that atomizes it well. I have also thought of it a product of the urethane primer not being blocked properly and using to fine a sandpaper.
     

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