Picked up a couple of sheets to start building the floorboards, etc on my project.... got to wondering if I might be using too heavy a gauge? Especially if I try to use it to skin the body?
18ga is the closest thing thats easily available. The original is 19ga DQ a type of metal that forms easier in the stamping mills.
For floors I'd recommend 16 gauge, although beading 16 gauge will take more machinery than most people have in a home shop. 18 will work but I would want to make sure you have beads to stiffen it and some bracing (tubing or hat sections).
Project is slightly O/T but over in the Jag IFS/IRS section. I had been thinking of framing the body up in 1" 16ga square tube and then skinning it, but looking at a couple of other handmade rod threads, I'm leaning towards cutting "ribs" and boxing them on the backside and skinning the outside. Much to learn, best way is by doing.
Which "handmade rods" threads? I'm this --><-- close to starting a scratchbuilt rod. Body and frame. I have two different designs in mind, and started doodling both of them in CAD to help think it through.
18 ga. Works fine for me. I'm using it for the floors and body. It takes a few passes in the bread roller, but it is plenty strong. Sent from my SM-G920V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I used 18 Ga on all floor patches/rebuild. Luckily, I didn't need to do any body panels, only the floor rebuild. No, I don't have any tools to do any bead rolling, but I have no "soft spots" or any "plunking" anywhere. If you think about it, the only place there is any pressure on the floors - it's only right in front of the seats, and the pressure is minimal. Hence, never thought it was necessary. Plus 18 Ga is pretty easy to cut with your angle grinder fitted with cutting wheel. To get the parts made accurately at my local sheet metal shop, I used old real estate signs and cut and taped them to fit, with notes as required, and the sheet metal shop make perfect fit pieces. Additionally, I got a drill powered pop rivet attachment that made life VERY much easier for the 1,000 + rivets that I used to fabricate the trans hump, driveshaft hump, and everything in the trunk and around my JAG modified frame. After building the frame, I moved it back under the car, and as I jacked it up, incrementally, so I could do the measuring on where to cut out the floor/wheel wells (tubbed them to fit the huge tires) and used that 3M super caulk (forgot the number on it) to seal up all joints. Think it might be 5200 or something like that. Anyway, with minimal tools, you can do it. After all, once you get the carpet in, ya can't see any of that ugly work...ahahah.. Here are some pics if you are interested...(be sure to go to page two at the bottom of the first gallery) https://49fordcoupe.smugmug.com/Rebuilding-body/
I have used 16 gauge for a flat floor We used 16 gauge square tubing and framed up a structure to weld it to. These were smooth flat floors that looked slick from the bottom. I use 18 for stock looking floors I do add structure for where the seat mounts.
The thread that influenced me most was "pounding out a t". there are a bunch more but that one lit a fire.
I just re-watched Ron Covell's two videos on building a 26/27 T Roadster. One on building the buck, one on the turtledeck. The body and doors video are still coming. Super inspirational, and he breaks it down into very do-able steps.
The guys who worked for Ghia pounded out foot-square sections until they fit and welded/brazed them into place. If those cats could do it with hammers and stumps...... well, I'm gonna give it a shot.
The Jalopy Journal
