I need to bend new window run channel in a 90 degree arc to fit the quarter windows in my '56 Ford Club Sedan (two-door post). Is it possible to use the window to bend the channel around, or is there some trick I'm unaware of? I have no experience with this kind of stuff. I'd appreciate any help a great deal!
I did mine in 2 pieces on my '59 Ford. Just run one in at 90* to the other, but flatten out the bead so one slips inside the other. You can also cut it at a 45* angle like a miter. Just leave some meat so you can bend it and it stays together. Got some old stuff to practice on?
I'd thought of cutting it, but wasn't sure how it would work. It may come down to that. The pieces I ordered are long enough to practice on one end, I think.
What did you get? Mine took the Y620 channel and yours is probably the Y526 (Restoration Specialties). I didn't have a heckuva lot left over of the rigid or flexible channel. It may cut nice with a miter saw. I put a piece of scrap wood inside the channel so it wouldn't catch on the saw.
I cut the channel I used with tin snips. I used the kind without the stainless bead. If you use the kind with the fabric cover over all of it, you can snip the tin and leave a fabric flap that you can tuck behind the other piece and glue it down so it looks more finished. Maybe ask the wife (more experienced with sewing) about hiding raw edges of fabric.
Is it a tight 90 or swept 90 radius, that would make a lot of difference whether to cut or roll a radius,and whether it’s stainless beaded or not.
Actually, I just got the old channel out, and realized that the channel I bought is too short. Steele says they'll fit my application, but they're only 60" long. The ones in the car are 72". Damned expensie mistake. This is the corner, with the factory channel in place. The new channel has the stainless bead.
I made a pattern on a piece of plywood using screws with a piece of tubing over them. Then a buddy and I bent the bends for my 40 Pontiac.
I did the wife’s 56 Chev using a peice of plastic the same radius as the original and carefully formed it around it,steady steady and just be careful not to crimp the stainless.
My wife did all the windows and stainless channel in my '55 F100. She made a wood 'buck' and bent the curve around it. Like Barrelnose says: 'Steady, steady'...No rush. My Ford factory tint windows start conversations, wife Joey is crafty.
Cut the backing nearly up to the stainless strip, in a few places at a spacing of about 3/16", and then bend the whole corner on a former, being careful not to kink it. Once it is in, if you don't like the look of the "spread apart" backing bits, you can cut a thin strip of self-adhesive Velcro (the "loop" part), and stick it over the gaps. Can you extend the 12" shortfall inside the door, butt-joining it, maybe with a sheetmetal backing rivetted on?
Glass works great as it's slick. Don't try to bend the channel form it with both hands on either side of the bend. Slow is better I cut it with the whiz wheel
Thanks for all the input, guys! I'm going out to make a 1/4" plywood cutout that mimics the window, then try my patience to the nth degree.... Thanks again, and wish me luck!
Thinking about it I used the actual glass and made 2 Pieces out of 1/4”mid(only need to be about 6” long either side of your bend) the same radius as the finished stainless radius,taped these to the glass and quietly bent around these,that way you have both radius’s to work with and both sides will work out the same,
I do it over the glass as it stops it collapsing or twisting. Once though I helped a mate who didnt have glass. we put short bit of bar stock or punch in the channel grove (what ever would fit snug) then used a broom handle as a form to get all the bends even. If you dont have something in the channel it can twist and kinda crimp in a bit.
I just did the channels in my 61 olds, a couple of sharp 90’s, i used the glass to bend them around, worked really nice, no cuts. Stainless bead. I made sure the beads could ‘slide’ and weren’t trapped at the cut ends, i noticed they slide along as you bend and had to re-trim ends when done. You might wanna give yourself a little extra length to allow for this.
If you can practice using the old stuff, try a slightly smaller radius as the buck, it will spring back and you will wind up with a slightly bigger radius. I like the idea of plywood.
Slow and easy and I always get it close then install it and roll the window up to finish the bend, being careful not to kink the stainless. Also be careful where you put the above mentioned rivets because you do not want them ever touching the corner of the glass. You can butt joint the old piece to the new piece at the bottom of the track with a good adhesive if you are just a few inches short at the bottom.
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