try using quality wide painters tape ( that will not damage things when removed) and place it over any areas that there is even a slim possibility of air coming through - then when inside tape around door too - hopefully, when you find the main contributor to wind/noise do not fully seal up cab - need a way for pressure to release - like a house needing some place for air to vent - a friend had a custom built 30's Chevy woodie two door that drove him crazy with wind noise - sealed up every spot that was a possible source - buzzing down the highway the passenger door ((suicide style!) blew open - yelled for his wife to not try to stop it - pulled over to side of road and found that the only thing that had kept door attached to car was the stereo speaker wires - sold it soon after that
Look at the design of a steam or air whistle. A simple coaches whistle is a good example. Now....... Look at a louver. Mmmmmmmn. All those louvers on the hood they're going to make some noise. I may be wrong but it looks like you have louvers on the roof. Those will make noise and..... you are under them.
Ever wonder why they started taking the door hinges off the outside and put them inside ??????? That is your answer ! Stick your hand out the window , hear that noise ??? That is what the hinge is doing also...
I agree, all the music is created by your right foot. Wear ear plugs if you must, but don’t change the truck....it’s bitchin***way Cool Gary. Sent from my iPad using H.A.M.B.
Henry designed your truck to go about 45 mph . Now you are trying exceed that by 30 mph and wonder about wind noise. Square cab, outside hinges. Poor seals. Here's your sign. Nice truck . Get some ear plugs and enjoy the ride. Ford trucks didn't get quiet until they curved the windshield. I built a 53 F100 for a guy that was really quiet and nice at freeway speeds.
Just because people seem to have exhausted other ideas any chance you’ve got a really loud metal mechanical fan? I switched fans recently and at higher speeds I can’t believe how much louder it is
Remove the rear window...Better install a C/O detector, too. That's why open rear hood scoops worked.
Thanks for the feedback. I do have the cab quite well insulated with the dynamat type of material. I also have all panels above the floor insulated with that thick foil backed material and over that the cab interior is clad with aluminum (.064) sheet. I do however have many air gaps around the doors and the windshield is leaking air. I think that you are right on with the engine vibration. When I turn on the ignition I hear the very loud fuel pump. With the engine running at idle I can't hear the fuel pump so the engine noise at 70 has got to contribute a lot to the noise level. Thanks for the help.
Thanks for the input. I have an electric pusher fan mounted in front of the radiator with a switch mounted on the dash. Sometimes I forget to turn the fan off when I am above 30 mph but I never forget to turn it on. I do not trust the automatic switches.
Thanks for the ideas! Removing the rear window would also help get the hot air out of the cab. I spent several months this winter, installing an aluminum panel with louvers in the roof so that helps get the heat out also.
I was riding with my dad in his 34 pickup. We were doing 70mph on the freeway when he decided to spit his gum out of the side window. The turbulence was so great, the gum ended up hitting the windshield. Dave
My buddy is the same way, It's a Hot Rod and a damn nice looking one, ear plugs will help you from losing your hearing Have fun with it!
My best friend was given a bone stock '29 Ford Model A convertible to restore for his 16th birthday. For the better part of a year we both worked on that car until it was completely restored (dad financed it as long as he kept it stock.) If I remember one thing about that car is that it was LOUD when we rode in it. I doubt that we ever went over about 55 mph in it.
Thanks for the compliment. I had louvers stamped in an aluminum panel and was hoping that all of the punched louvers would give the panel flexibility and allow it to comply with the crown of the roof. That didn't work so I had to cut the panel between the rows of louvers so it all would fit the roof line. The "dots" are aluminum pop rivets holding the panels to the roof steel. Five rows of twenty louvers each are open and functional.
Many thanks for your insight. Fifty of the roof louvers do open to the cab. I have a louver fetish and can't give up my louvers. Also, with the windshield canted open the engine hot air has a direct path into the cab from the hood louvers.
Thanks to everyone for the great info. I have decided that I definitely will not cut off the visor. I will use ear protection as a standard practice when cruising over 60 mph. I am going to experiment with painters tape and I want to mount some curved aluminum air foils (wind wings) to the "A" pillars to see what that does. I see also that engine and road noise is a big part of the overall noise level. I just realized that I will not hear the wind noise if I push the exhaust cutoff button, LOL.
You can seal away but as long as the doors overlap the body at the front, top and rear your gonna have wind noise. I have a 32 truck with a 3 inch chop and perfectly fitting doors and the proper size wind lace around the doors and original style bottom seals and the wind noise is deafening at 60-70 MPH. By the way leave your truck alone, it is bitchin!
Years ago, Krylon 32 told me he built a glued in windshield truck and it was better. I have a 32 that I've put almost 30,000 miles on in the last few years, most at 70mph or slightly better. I'm almost 100% sure the visor has nothing to do with the noise. I have thought about putting tape around the windshield on the outside and seeing if that was a worthwhile attempt at noise reduction. I have weatherstripping installed all the way around both doors, top and bottom. There is sound deadener and Low e insulation all over the cab. I can talk at 70 but it would take some effort. This is with an electric fan and quiet pipes. The only time you hear the mufflers is at wide open throttle. The sealing of the doors has been most beneficial of my efforts. When I run with the windows down, I use ear plugs. I'm a motorcyclist and am aware of low frequency noise hearing loss. Above 60 mph is when I notice the largest increase in noise. I've had trucks with the sliding rear window. That made no difference at all. While it is a downside to our trucks, if you keep trying things you may stumble on something that works in your truck. I'm also old and don't want to attract too much attention with noisy pipes. I've been known to have a real heavy foot.
Just wondering; has any one removed the rear window, and did this help with the noise/heat issues? The glassman is doing my windows next week and I am seriously thinking of making the rear window removeable. I was thinking mainly for heat reasons. I cannot have roll down as the seat is touching the back wall.
I too think that the louvres would be the main contributor to your wind noise. I can’t imagine that removing the rear window would be of any benefit.
One thing I’ve never encountered is heat in my cab. I too have a louvered hood with open sides and pipes exiting right below the running board behind the front fender. With an open windshield and vent and temps in the mid 80’s it feels as though your totally open much like a bike. Wind noise?? I hope so.
Since my '34 truck is essentially the same chop/channel specs, it got me thinking if I had a similar wind noise problem. But, then it dawned on me that (a) I can't hear in the first place (b) I don't talk to my passenger, because no one will ride with me (c) The exhaust noise will drown out any wind noise & (d) I leave my hearing aids at home.
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