In the 6+ months, with less time available to tinker than I'd like, I still have not gotten it started. The other carb was in bad shape, so I bought a NOS one. Here's a video of my attempt to get it to run. Its cranks and fires up, but wont continue running. I'm waiting for an electric choke to arrive thinking it really needs a choke to start, but take a look. The H.A.MB has been incredibly helpful for the beginners like myself. Link to Video (too large to post): Sent from my SM-N950U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
One thing I noticed was the washer on the front carb stud bouncing around under the very loose nut. Can be a big vacuum leak. Also when cranking it sounds like it is kicking back a little... Too much initial timing.
That's a pretty hard crank, you sure you got that distributor in right? Had it ran previously, sorry if I missed that somewhere
HUGE vacuum leak.. why don't you tighten that loose stud/retainer on the driver's side of the carb..??? I bet she will run just fine then
Washer is being blown upwards by the exhaust gas passage in the front of the baseplate for warmup. Definitely could be a major vacuum leak as well as pressurized exhaust getting in.
Is it quitting when you release the key from 'Start' to 'Run'? Seems to my you pump gas, engage the 'Start' and it starts while you continue to pump and have by then released the key from 'Start' to 'Run' and even though you still pump gas it shut off. The wire from the 'Run' (ignition) is broken, it is starting because the wire from the starter solenoid is feeding the coil but when the strater solenoid opens the voltage goes away and the coil has no power. Try to run a wire from the battery to the coil and I'll bet it starts and runs, remove the wire to shut it 'Off'.
Good advice above. It does sound like the timing is off one way or another. Start with the basics. Did you check for a good hot spark? Verify #1 piston TDC with a piston stop and that this jibes with the "0" timing mark on the damper. Make sure the plug wires are in proper firing order, and the distributor is stabbed correctly, and the rotor points to #1 terminal. These are all very common errors or engine derangements. Not trying to beat up on you here, but show some mercy on the starter, solenoid and battery lol. An engine that won't light off will quickly burn up a starter and solenoid, they are really only designed and built to operate for just a second. Allow at least a minute or two of rest for every second of cranking. Starter might not fail right away but extended crankfest will severely reduce its service life. Put the battery on a charger overnight, too.
With the glass fuel filter banging against the valve cover, the loose carb will be the least of his problems! KK
Those filters are notorious for starting fires. As a general rule, it is a good practice to keep a fire extinguisher ready and available. One easy test for over-advanced ignition timing, disable the ignition by grounding the coil wire. See if the engine turns over freely.
Loose carb and that filter has got to go. How much fuel is in the filter? You may want to do a quick fuel pump volume test, look it up. An electric choke won't be much help and the 2GC has a pretty good choke, get the parts to get it to work. Once you get that far, try retarding the timing as it cranks.
Thanks! I plan to go through all the recommendations. Yes, the shipping company drove it onto the truck when being delivered to me. The starter was cracked once it arrived, and I had the hardest time getting any action out of it. Once I was able to figure out the starter was cracked (After I replaced some of the cruddy wiring), I then moved on to the next "thing".
Yep, I have my fire extinguisher ready and available, and I keep a wet towel around when I've tried to use prime the carb to get it to start. Great suggestions that I previously saw in another posting on the H.A.M.B.
Will be doing this also. Thanks for taking the time to provide recommendations. The other 3 are tightened well, but this 4th is in a place that's nearly impossible to get to. I was obviously wrong to thinking it perhaps didn't matter.
Thanks! Many of you are recommending to get rid of the filter and tighten down the 4th stud on the carb. Plan to do both those first. The carb utilizes a hot air choke. I'll do some more homework to see if I can figure out what the connections look like/required to go that direction. The carb I removed was in pretty bad shape, and didn't appear to be the one that was on it for the year. Thanks a bunch.
You're insight is very helpful. Thank you. The starter/solenoid was my planned "next" issue to address once I got it started. This a "NOS" solenoid as the last one was cracked and stopped working all together. When I turn the key, sometimes it just "spins". that's just to say, I can hear what sounds like the starter just spinning, without engaging the flywheel. So I have to "bump it" sometimes until I hear/feel it engage. Then It attempts to start. I know this has to be addressed/resolved, and planned to start trying to figure things out after this non-starting issue. Again, thank you so much for your advise. You and the other members who take the time to provide constructive feedback/recommendations is INVALUABLE. I hope over time, I'll be able to gain the knowledge that I may share with someone later as well.
Carb isn't bolted down properly. Shitty fuel filter is a fire waiting to happen. What other half assed bullshit is going on ? Quit fucking around.
In your video it looks like the choke is trying to close after the engine starts. If this is taking place in Texas somewhere, I'd guess there really isn't much need for the choke once the engine starts running. It may be flooding the engine nearly as soon as it starts. Before throwing any money at the choke, study the choke linkage and try to figure out a way to wire the choke valve open, temporarily at least. This will at least give you a chance to get the idle speed and idle mixture somewhat adjusted. And save your battery and starter a bit of extra stress. Some folks might say to just prop the choke open with a screwdriver but there's always a chance of it dropping too far down in the throttle bore and also propping the throttle plates partially open.
That choke should be hooked up to the exhaust manifold, couldn't tell if it was or not. I would definitely wire the choke opened. May want to check the online manual for that early rochester 2gc. It mat indeed be NOS, but is almost certainly remanfactored. Have you set the idle mixture screws? Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk
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