I couldn't see paying 390 for a set of quarter elliptical springs so I built my own. I started with a set of worn out Suzuki samurai springs, next up was a 12lb sledge hammer and big anvil. Old school spring 're arching 101. Once I was happy with the arch and fit between the spring leafs it was time to move on to the next step.
Now that the arching and fitting was done to the first spring then it was time to match the second spring to the first. With the springs bolted back together I then decided which end to use. I then cut the springs and began building the end brackets. For the brackets, The samurai spring is 2" wide so I used 1/4" x2 strap to build off of. The rear ferral is actually the ferral out of late model Chevy front control arms bushings. Just heated the old bushings up and pushed the ferrals out, cleaned them up and they were good to go. The plates were drilled so that the center bolt runs thru both the spring and the plates.
Ok, now I have springs 're arched, cut, and plates drilled and cut to length it's time to bolt it back together. Once it's bolted together I put it in a small vice and squeezed it tight. I then took a piece of 1/4" x1" strap and cut it to fit tight up against the back of the spring pack and welded it in place. This strap does 2 things, 1 it gives strength to the plates and 2 it helps maintain the spring leafs from moving side to side. Now once that's done I just butted the ferrals up against the end of the plates and checked them for side to side and square to the springs. Once I was happy I tacked them into place I double checked and then welded solid. The ferrals are 1/8" wider than the springs so it gave me a 1/16" clearance side to side.
Ok, another step finished and on to the next. The spring pack is done now time for the brackets. The brackets were made from 1/4"x2 1/2" strap. The top is just a piece cut to 5 1/4" long and then I cut the sides out of the same 2 1/2" strap. Then simple cutting to my pattern and some welding and grinding and I have frame brackets! So now at this point I drilled 1 1/8" holes thru the top of the brackets for the adjustment bolt, welded on a nut and called it good. I positioned the bolt so that it contacts the plates that I built right at the end of that plate. Now a couple points of design, 1- I used a wider spring so I used a bigger bolt (1"). I used a bigger bolt to span the width of the spring better. I also designed the brackets and springs to use a washer between the inside of the brackets. Also the ferral will have no type of bushing. It's built to be bolted down tight once the height has been set and the adjusting screw set. I hope this helps anyone thinking about building their own. Maybe it will give you some ideas and thoughts on brewing your own brackets etc.
Just built a set for my deuce lakester. I used a Posie 32 inch front spring split in the middle with a re drilled spring bolt. I then made stationary brackets out of 1/4 inch plate and u bolts. Mine is not adjustable which is a feature I probably should have incorporated? I patterned mine after a set I built back in 1984 for a deuce highboy that I see every few years at the LARS and with over a 150 K on it the rear suspension is still going strong. It was designed as a 4 bar type suspension with the spring being the upper bar. I have been setting them up as late with shackles at the rear end and P&J ladder bars. I've built several customer chassis using the Posie 1/4 elliptic set up but have had 2 cars break the rear main leaf thru the spring bolt. Both these cars were high mile cars that had been driven hard. I'm not faulting Posie or my design because there is plenty of flexibility. Yours looks like a really good set up.
I really like that setup... might use something similar when I eventually get to my V12 roadster. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
After studying mine and yours I think I will build front spring brackets with the eye like yours. The length of the bars top and bottom will take the stress off the main leaf at the spring bolt. I can get the adjustable front mounts for my 1.75 spring from a supplier for not much money so it will resemble yours and Posie's set up. The vertical adjustment is important for compensating for uneven weight loads and springs settling at a different rate. I first used the Posie 1/4 elliptic setup when I built the 2004 NSRA giveaway 30 A highboy pickup. It looked really cool with the springs and shocks mounted in front of the Winters V8 QC and no suspension showing from the rear.
Thanks guys ! Hey krylon32, yeah I had worried about possibly breaking out the spring bolt area, that's why I decided to run plates top and bottom of the spring bolt. I considered just the top or bottom but figured sandwiched was the best and strongest way to go. With the 440 and I do like to drive I figured I'd better make it strong.
Update, finally got the springs mounted to both the frame and the rear housing. Next I have to make the ferrals for the rear bushings and shorten the rubber bushings themselves BUT finally the frame is riding on the suspension !! Now the steering gear.
Great job and tech. I really appreciate when you guys do these. I am like a sponge and dig seeing rodder ingenuity. I feel smarter already. I have always wondered how those sets ride. Maybe a future project. Thanks again.
I'm curious as to why the height adjustment bolt is considered important for quarter elliptics, but few seem concerned about providing for adjustability with either a full cross spring, or parallel leaf springs, other than removing or adding spring leafs, bending the leaves, or inserting shims, all on a trial and error basis. (The minimum number of leafs is dictated by load and geometry, and if the number employed is less, there will be a resultant overstress.) Using the spring constant and the support load, the correct mounting geometry can be determined. As I see in the last photographs, the shackles are quite long, and could have multiple drilled holes for adjustability, or the shackles could be made after the car is built. (A temporary set could be used to support the car while under construction.)
Desmodromic when I looked at quarter elliptical springs I could find no info on installed height vs. weight for any 1/4 elliptical spring. As in nothing to show me that the spring would deflect say 1" per 500 lbs so with my set up it was a guessing game and educated guess. I used front Suzuki samurai springs so I figured that the front of the samurai should have about 500 lbs more weight so I re-arched the springs with the idea that the springs should basically be almost straight in street trim on A. The shackles are 3 3/4 C to C. Again somewhat planned. I wanted axle brackets high to hide, and springs even with bottom of frame, plus gives me a little wiggle room on finished height
Interesting. ..how bout a pic of the back half of the frame. ..the entire setup. So this clue less guy can understand more. Thanks !! Sent from my SM-G900V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Hey guys, Yeah I will try and get a few good pics that show how it's set up. Also just looking at the shocks so I'll post some pics once I start on the shock mounts.
Ok guys a few pics from different angles. I finished the spring bushings this week, I had to modify and make bushings and bushing sleeves. Now I'm ready to move to the shocks. Also note that every thing is rough and nothing is finished out. In case I have to change anything. If you have any questions just ask! I'm glad to help.
Btw the shackles aren't finished either, haven't decided how I'm going to shape and finish them yet. Got some ideas, some are pretty time consuming so I got to decide if it's worth putting 6 hours into 2 shackles on a driver ! Lol
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