I am thinking of buying an aluminum third member case for a street rod build, but know nothing about what brands are out there. Can some of you comment on what I should consider. I want a good quality case, but at a reasonable price. Thanks in advance
Strange , I have one looks to be cast and machined nicely. There are many Chinese ones about that look as good but the strange one isn’t that much $$$ I didn’t want any odd machining errors but seems to be a lot of people using the ones from China.
Yup Strange Right after I got this one they came out with one for high horsepower apps, link below. Bare cases are at bottom of page. https://www.strangeengineering.net/hd-pro-center-sections-and-cases/
I've sold a few from John's with no problems to date. I have no idea if he makes his own or gets them someplace else?
I don't think I would need a through bolt HP case. I'm not familiar with "John's". Just trying to cut down on sprung weight and improve on looks.
Yukon is getting good reviews http://www.quickperformance.com/For...omplete-Center-section-Third-Member_p_60.html
Is it for aesthetics? Currie, Strange, Yukon, MW or Moser are known brands, bolt through (I note you don't want this style) or not, daytona or OEM pinion? Lots of variables and prices; 28, 31 or ?? spline, open or not. RWHP would be a determining factor and usage and then cost. The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten
The aluminum case is something I have wanted for a good while. I want to change gear ratio, so now is my best chance to justify the added expense. Through bolt is not a top priority. Stock ring and pinion, open carrier, 28 spline will be used. Bitterness of poor quality is well noted. Looking for quality at an affordable price here. "Made in USA" would be great. "Made in China" and a quality part I can live with. "Made in China" and a piece of junk I can't!
Sounds like you could have your stock case powder coated aluminum color and save the money. If you are that concerned about changing it for looks , put a quick change in it. Much better for your ego. More show points. I always use Strange engineering parts.
The aluminium case will not change sprung rate. It will change unsprung weight. I doubt you will be able to feel any differance in handleing at all. As far as looks yes the alloy one looks better but who can see it unless you get on knees and look under car. It's your car so do what you want not trying to critisize. I can just think of alot of other places to spend money
I was going to go aluminum for the 9" in the '32, but wound up swapping in the "N" case instead. I probably still will as it makes swapping to 35 spline axles easier later. The weight savings wouldn't make much difference on the street, but 15 lbs is 15 lbs!
Greg is correct. The aluminum case lessens unsprung weight. The rear coilovers have such limited travel, I thought reducing weight here might give them better control.
This little upgrade looks to be turning into a money pit. The center section is just the beginning of the expenses, lol. Once again, Greg gave good advice. I think I will stay with what I have a while longer. Thanks to all for posting.
I too agree with Greg... WAY back when I was building my first fat fender car, I was REAL concerned about how the chassis was going to look ...An older guy told me ..." Someone is going to be on their knees to see it ...That puts them in the proper position to receive your answer to any criticism "...
I wasn't trying to impress anyone but myself, they will have to lift my trunk floor to fully appreciate what this cost. Have an all aluminum engine too, you don't even want to ask what it cost.
Just to quantify I have two Moser aluminum units w/ aluminum spools both at 52.5#. My iron open unit weighs 70.5#. With a 200# (housing, center section, 1/2 shocks/suspension) and another 100# tires and wheels an 18# saving may not be worth it for street
Oddly enough, it costs less to build an aluminum pumpkin than a factory nodular. And yes, they look cool too.....
I had an N case in my race car about 1976/77, bought it used, it had one or two stripped cap bolt holes, so I drilled/tapped all four oversizese then made new bolts and sent it to Jack Crisman and had it machined for big bearings, that was not cheap.
I run Mark Williams Enterprises Modular 9" 40 spline Blown Altered, Strange also good manufacture Just use a stock ford case ,paint correct aluminum color as mentioned before , Reliable and strong , You will be Happy
The cross-sections at the failed holes is thin, but something way beyond "normal" made the case and pinion pilot bearing do that.
I am a Strange dealer, if you decide to go with them shoot me a PM and I'll give you HAMB special pricing below mailorder etc.
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