Only a few years ago I would have never given this project a second look. I would have just gone out into the parts pile and grab another 32 axle! Yesterday I bought a 36 Ford pick up bed that had been made into a trailer. It had a complete 34 front axle and crossmember bolted underneath, which was what I was after. I am going to sell the 36 bed and fenders, which are pretty nice. Unfortunately, the spindles have been welded in place on the early axle. I have several of these welded makeshift trailer axles that have accumulated in my junk over the years. I am curious if anyone has had any luck in removing the spindles by cutting, machining, or otherwise getting them off without harming the axle? Does anyone have a genius way of making this happen?
pitman has it more or less. I would carefully grind away the larger gobs of weld and then use the disk to get a little way into the gap between the parts and then try to twist them apart in a vice or such. Usually works fine then dress things up and use them over. These old Ford parts, particularly the forgings are made from really good steel and a little heat won't hurt them.
1/4" high speed die grinder with Christmas tree carbide bit. Go very slowly and as soon as you see the separation between the spindle and king pin, move on.
I use a Metabo Quick Angle Grinder with a 6" cutoff wheel https://www.amazon.com/Metabo-WE15-...=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B00WJOXK84
I have a '39 axle that was under a trailer. Considered trying to save the spindles (axle is junk), but when you can buy new ones pretty cheap, doesn't seem worth the time to maybe be successful in cutting them apart. It's going in the scrap pile.
Sacrifice the spindles by cutting them off leaving some material on the spindle side of the welds and then start removing what’s left working towards the axle. If you’re careful with the grinder you can save the axle.
I'd hit it with a cutting disc and die grinder, as mentioned above. I really came here to say I might be interested in that bed when you want to sell it though.
X2 if you're really after the axle and going to utilize 37-48 spindles for your build. However, the 34 spindles have value and should be saved if at all possible. You need to upload a photo as we have no idea how "good" someone welded things together. I've seen everything from heavily tacked to deep fused with fish plating wrapped and welded in. Some are so fused together that all the welding, machining and restoration labor makes it more feasible to buy the parts.
After I got the axle out, it was worse than I thought. I guess I’ll just sell the bed and fenders and the 34 front crossmember and use the radius rods on a project. The axle might find its way under a vintage teardrop. PM me if you need any of the stuff, and thanks for all the suggestions. As I said, I have some others I may attempt cutting apart!
The welding made heat which changed the metallurgy of the spindle. I simply wouldn't trust them after grinding then free. They might crack where the heated metal meets the colder area? I had a cracked frame on a truck. welded it up. And it cracked again. The weld didn't break it cracked right next to the weld. I chased it for a time welding the new cracks. Then junked the truck.
I've cut 2 axle/spindle trailer jobs apart, both were nice axles; One a '32 heavy and the other a '33-'36, had '34 spindles. If the axle is a '32 heavy, it's worth the sometimes 4 hours to CAREFULLY grind weld back down to finish the axle...if the latter, '33-'36, not so much, as cores are sometimes $50. (most of the time, $100) Other trailer axles I'v saved have been 'tied down' with cut off tie rods, the inner ends attached to 'U' bolts on semi-elliptic springs; some Ford axles had a 6" square plate 3/8" thick welded to the center of the rear web of the 'I' beam, and tie rods flattened and bolted to the plate. The best one, though...was a '40 V8 60 tube, round spindles, with the tie rod cut in center and bent to run parallel with the axle, (right behind it) 4 'U' bolts were slid over the tube from the front...their plates welded to the tie rod tubes, then bolted securely together. Seller said his '40 was hit from the rear, while parked in front of the house. Sold the engine/trans to a Midget race car builder, saved the front axle for the trailer. I got the old 'trailer axle' for $40. Trailer had also been hit by a drunk driver.
Not worth the trouble in my opinion. With the time consumed in doing that you could have worked on the job enough to buy some better ones.
I would grind off the weld flush then cut the seam with a hacksaw. If no room for a hacksaw use a thin grinding disc. You won't have to cut far, the weld can't be very deep. I seriously doubt Elmer got much penetration when he was welding them with his stick welder back in the fifties. When you get the spindle off you can weld up any gouges and carefully grind them smooth. Considering that hot rodders have been heating and bending spindle arms and spindle supports for years, and dropping axles by heating them red and bending them I wouldn't worry about the heat. Steel forgings are quite different from sheet metal that frames and bodies are made of.
Gospel!!! The Dodge Bros. forged axles, spindles, and various bracketry for Henry Ford when they ran his forging dep't. He had developed 'Chrome Vanadium Steel', and the Bros. used the same material in the same factory to make their Dodge Bros. axles, spindles, and other D.B. parts. Henry continued to use this superior steel in car and truck axles, and having spent many years bending and straightening Ford and Chevrolet truck axles, the difference is akin to carbon wire vs. rope. In that order. Axles are straightened cold, but years of heating and dropping them hasn't resulted in any problems, other than 'bending error'. (camber, 'twist', etc.) They are just a strong after heating and bending, allowing them to cool slowly, and 'normalize'.
You can tell that the guys who posted after you put the photos up didn't look at the photos. I'd say that there is no hope for that axle and spindles except under another trailer. who ever did that didn't want them to come loose. I've had a couple that were just tacked and one that they had heated the steerng arm and bent it down and welded it to the axle and didn't touch the spindles.
I don't know who came up with the nonsense that you will not get deep penetration and excessive heat with 1950's stick welders? My dad had a old Fourney buzz box. You had outlets and plugs similar to a telephone exchange. Ive seen him cut 1/2 steel with it. He welded on bulldozers and earthmovers and all sorts of broken heavy stuff. And got deep penetration. There seems to be plenty of penetration and weld on the spindles pictured. Maybe save the axle but the spindles are junk.
Forget the axle, the money's in those fenders! That's not a 36, those are 40 Ford bed and fenders. And good 40 pickup fenders are hard to find. If those are solid, they could be worth big bucks.
Hell, I've been looking at fenders, and even a set like that for '36 will run you $$$. If '40s are anywhere near as rare, straighten those bad boys out and list 'em!
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