Most every other car I’ve had to this point has been a ford rear. Do you guys see any red flags here in the assembly of brakes? I bought the car from a widow, and it was found with the top of the master cylinder off.... However, it seems the rear brakes are operating above 330° after short drives, and on the verge of becoming an issue. I’m in the garage this morning, and already backed off the adjusters hoping the man was just bleeding brakes. On a side note... I’m sure what year this came out of I’m thinking mid 80s???? Say anything to indicate what it may be?? Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I don't see anything glaringly wrong in the photos. Is there a return spring on the brake pedal? Is the master cylinder linkage adjusted so there is a little [1/8th inch] of play in the pedal with your foot off the brake? This is important. Without the play in the pedal linkage, the return port in the master cylinder will not be open and pressure in the system will increase until you can feel the brakes dragging....fires have actually happened.
^^^^^^^^x 2 Looks like generic GM Intermediate rear end.........based on the relatively small 9.5" brake diameter.
if you want help IDing the rear, take some pictures that show more of it! little close ups don't help much, but an overall view might. Like the rear cover, the back side of the backing plates, etc. And measure the width of the shoes and inner diameter of the drum.
It looks like both shoes are against the anchor pin but the anti rattle spring on the E brake spreader bar looks fully collapsed you might back off the adjustment a little. After driving crack a bleeder and check for pressure build up.
I put an extra turn in the rod just to be sure. And the spring looks good. Still Hot after a 2 mile ride.
Cracked the bleeder in short order after a ride... and absolutely nothing.... I had a soft pedal prior to all of this... and now it’s even worse after shortening MC rod... it’s tome to bleed... but I was hoping to cure the heat problem first Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Not knowing how your pedal is set up, shortening the rod may not be the correct way to adjust it. Do you have some free play between the master cylinder push rod and the piston in the master cylinder?
Are all photos of the right rear brakes? Are both sides getting hot? It does appear that the spring should be on the other end.
If the rear adjusters were over adjusted, I doubt you would be able to pull the drum off/on. On the GM 9.5" drums the spring is on the leading side, opposite of the parking brake assembly mechanism, so that looks right. The spring will be compressed as it keeps the spreader bar from rattling. The bar itself can only go on one way. As the slot on the BP side is wider to accommodate the BP lever along with the shoe. Opposite side only has shoe. And what looks like the slot for the bar to go up into is not the slot. Those shoes have a sideways 'M' looking cutout, so the actual slot has two minor reliefs cut into the shoe on either side of the actual slot.
Well... nothing great to report over the last three months. Most every part in the brake system has been replaced with the exception of the front calipers , and the loaded drums. I did find some divots on the shoe resting pads... so I did some filling with the mig. I’ve yet to give it a test drive, but have all but lost hope.... as of yesterday short drives without using much brake was still over 330 degrees on the drum. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Are the brakes plumbed properly ? Why is there a bleeder screw in the master cylinder? Looks to be where the front line should be located Are you sure its the brakes,and not the axle bearing getting hot. Brake shoes do not have a worn or cooked appearance.
The spring is on the right end the spreader bar notch is wider at one end so it won't fit the wrong way. the bar should be a little loose and not pushing on the shoes the spring is to keep is from rattling
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