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Projects 26 T Roadster Pick Up build Thread

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Blue One, Mar 27, 2010.

  1. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 11,462

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    I forgot I’m gonna put the battery in it’s mount and run the battery cable up the frame to the starter first :D
     
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  2. F-ONE
    Joined: Mar 27, 2008
    Posts: 3,271

    F-ONE
    Member
    from Alabama

    That's the cats ass right there, good job!

    This helps me a lot on my F1. Years of having make do stuff.....now is the time to do it right. Thanks.
     
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  3. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 11,462

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    Brake lines are wrapped up to the rear brakes.
    Not having any brake lines mounted on the quick change itself worked out well and looks clean.
    Fluid and bleeding soon.
    AA95319E-5978-4284-97AA-37B07584CDCC.jpeg B6CE68F5-F487-4291-95C9-CF72A1FD316D.jpeg 0C360584-B1B9-4766-8328-16A59F67C991.jpeg
     
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  4. Dick Stevens
    Joined: Aug 7, 2012
    Posts: 3,715

    Dick Stevens
    Member

    That's what good planning gets you, clean appearance on completion!
     
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  5. Simply beautiful. Clean, not over done, but quality all the way. Very nice!
     
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  6. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 17,187

    Tim
    Member
    from KCMO

    Anything new?
     
  7. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 11,462

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    Not lately taking care of other more important things right now.
    Still planning to complete this thing this summer.
     
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  8. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 11,462

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    Well back to it. I spent the day making battery cables and mounting them.

    That involved drilling two 5/8” holes into the frame and welding in threaded bungs for the grounds one at the rear and one up front.

    Of course then the frame paint had to be touched up :)

    While the paint was drying I put a set of gears in the quick change and added the gear oil.

    I also installed the rear coil overs.

    Then came brake fluid and bleeding the brakes.
    Leaks?
    Only 2 on the pipe thread ends of the 10 lb residual pressure valves that I looked at and wondered if they would leak.
    I should have put some pipe thread sealant on them when I thought about it :oops:

    All of my ni cop flares done with my eastwood flaring tool are perfect, leak free.

    Moving forward :cool: and now I’ll be able to stop :D
     
    Budget36, brad2v, Tim and 9 others like this.
  9. tfeverfred
    Joined: Nov 11, 2006
    Posts: 15,791

    tfeverfred
    Member Emeritus

    Thanks for the update.
     
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  10. Doesn't some progress make ya feel good.:cool::D JW
     
    Last edited: Jun 25, 2018
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  11. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 11,462

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    Had to crimp the lugs on the battery cable and then seal the lug ends with glue lined shrink tubing.

    The cable is all mounted using the same made for you clamps I used on the brake and fuel lines.

    I used a little Hot rod heat sleeve heat insulation on the cable where it passes over the exhaust.

    So the full system including the ground for the engine is 1/0 battery cable.

    I’m still debating removing the starter and painting it black.

    594391A2-0EB4-4922-B480-D80EAE7C355E.jpeg ED8658F9-E270-449E-90CC-541F8CFA701F.jpeg D7C73727-489A-4F13-ADB5-6E1EDD5E3725.jpeg CD3ED94C-6051-4DCB-AAF5-4140FCAAE72D.jpeg A266561F-6F1C-4950-B7E3-B6452F15CBDC.jpeg A7935389-F655-45B5-A4A1-1DDFE04C7AA0.jpeg 315B3336-C448-4AB9-90F0-4BF94C29A2E9.jpeg 8458789B-9B41-4E8B-AD37-463E21993E30.jpeg 07D1C7C1-9840-490F-B05F-2E14159B3337.jpeg
     
  12. atch
    Joined: Sep 3, 2002
    Posts: 5,637

    atch
    Member

    That sounds like a very good plan.
     
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  13. loudbang
    Joined: Jul 23, 2013
    Posts: 40,291

    loudbang
    Member

    Man this build of yours is SHOW QUALITY. :) What a beauty.

    I agree darken the starter. But try it first in case you have to return it. :rolleyes:
     
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  14. X3 on the starter. JW
     
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  15. Crazybillybob
    Joined: Nov 8, 2010
    Posts: 316

    Crazybillybob
    Member
    from Ohio

    Paint that starter!
     
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  16. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 11,462

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    The starter is perfect, it’s been tested and works flawlessly

    :D Okay guys I’m painting the starter :D
     
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  17. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 11,462

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    Step one painstakingly mask off what you don’t want paint on.
    Step 2 self etching primer for the aluminum bits......:D
    1AFE32B5-75CF-4C9B-BDAA-D1963D6F46F3.jpeg
     
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  18. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 11,462

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    And then there was this :cool::D
    36E83BBE-47BB-485C-A627-06BF39577254.jpeg
     
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  19. Much better!
     
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  20. Dick Stevens
    Joined: Aug 7, 2012
    Posts: 3,715

    Dick Stevens
    Member

    Good choice to paint it!
     
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  21. atch
    Joined: Sep 3, 2002
    Posts: 5,637

    atch
    Member

    Good choice.
     
    loudbang likes this.
  22. I agree looms better painted, but I probably will go body color on mine

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-J320AZ using Tapatalk
     
  23. Gone is the sore thumb. :cool:;) JW
     
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  24. bobbytnm
    Joined: Dec 16, 2008
    Posts: 1,670

    bobbytnm
    Member

    Oh yea, the starter is much better in black
     
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  25. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 11,462

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    I wanted to mount my intake and I also wanted to block off the center exhaust ports to the intake so that it won’t burn the powder coating on the manifold.

    I took the gaskets and gently pried out the sheet metal insert around the center ports

    Then I cut a couple of small squares of 1/16” stainless and carefully Tig welded (20 amps)
    them in at the 4 corners.

    Placing them back into the gaskets and tapping the lip back down did the trick. :cool:

    Blocked off and my intake will stay pretty :cool: :D

    A49CD980-7721-4FDA-9B6F-302D15182BDD.jpeg C25662F8-A45E-4A10-9918-8D156E233888.jpeg 89A5533E-628C-4685-A4F0-AFEF34D3C1A3.jpeg 1A72194A-5D66-4CD4-997C-4994599E3748.jpeg
     
  26. Looks really good Larry! I got the pleasure of seeing Larry's build in person yesterday as Larry did some aluminum welding for me. It looks even better in person.

    Sent from my SM-G950W using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
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  27. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 11,462

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    Thanks Ian.
     
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  28. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 11,462

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    I spent today wandering around one of our best self serve wrecking yards a short way east of the city and reminded myself of why I like the place so much.

    I’m plumbing my PCV and transmission vacuum lines and I want to keep it clean and neat,

    Searching through all the different vehicles I came up with a wide variety of pre formed rubber brake booster hoses and vacuum hoses some of them pre formed with 90 degree bends and other creative angles and shapes.

    I came home with a bag full of all different sizes :cool:
    Along with that a bag full of those spring type clamps in assorted sizes.

    A fun day :cool:
     
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  29. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 11,462

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    I came up with a technique to make custom vacuum hoses in 1/2” and 3/8” for both ends of my PCV system.
    I’m using an inline PCV valve that is originally for a 60s Ford truck with a 292 YBlock.
    Old stock Deutsch 131.

    The making of hoses involved the formed hoses I gathered during my wrecking yard day and a little modification.

    First you cut the hoses and arrange the bends to suit where you want to go with the hose.

    Then using some Loctite 404 Industrial super glue you glue your hose together.

    After that you slide the hose into a length of dual wall (glue lined) heat shrink tubing, I used 1”.
    You shrink the tubing and presto you have a custom hose.

    Because my Edelbrock intake sits over top of the Mummert valley pan’s baffled PCV outlet I also had to cut down and modify a stock Yblock
    PCV valley pan outlet to fit.

    Turned out nice :cool:

    E9C8EC9A-B9F6-4AA7-BD3A-1894EC746144.jpeg ECAFD06C-AE7F-49F5-874D-A4CF7BE36781.jpeg 867364E4-3F0D-47F5-BEFA-1FDF38592233.jpeg
    97397F21-13F8-491E-A67A-45E4FCE4B03B.jpeg
     
    Last edited: Jul 4, 2018
    brad2v, AndersF, loudbang and 5 others like this.
  30. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 11,462

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    And then the beauty shot ;) :D
    E01DB03E-531F-49C6-8823-1E4493C314DB.jpeg
     
    32Dan, tfeverfred, brad2v and 6 others like this.

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