Technical Where to get decent flat/satin black paint?

I'm about to start finish bodywork and will be painting the roadster body satin black. Looking for recommendations on decent quality paint, without breaking the bank. Just finished painting the frame metallic silver and was quite pleased with Summit Racing's single stage but not sure if they carry satin black, or not. Definitely don't wanna use flat black primer! Looking for a product that will last, not fade and I can paint flames over. Single stage, right? I don't want it all shiny! Ideas or recommendations, please. Thanks in advance!

 

TCP Global.

 

John Deere sells quality paint . Their Blitz black is $40-$50 ?? a gallon. It's the right sheen and is tough! it sprays out nice with out runs. I've used a lot of it.

 

This! ^^^^^^ I have used quite a bit of their product. I have an experimental vehicle. (ot project that didn't work out) I painted it 3 years ago, left outside, unwashed, unwaxed for that time. Painted with red single stage urethane. Now at the end of 3 years it looks like it should be waxed to clean the paint.

 

Blitz Black applied in 2006, but it doesn't get a lot of road time.

 

I bought the satin blue on my '50 Ford from TCP. Hot Rod Flats. Sprays decent (it was too hot the day I sprayed so it dried too quickly) and is a great value.

 

Kirker low gloss is a great product,we used it on my Deuce pickup in 2007 and it holds up extremely well. HRP

HOT ROD BLACK
Low-Gloss Single-Stage Urethane Topcoats
UA-70388 (satin) and UA-70389 (matte)

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An activated two-component single-stage topcoat, Kirker’s Hot Rod Black is far more durable than flat black primers, “spray bombs” or cheap implement paints from the local hardware store. UA-70388 (Satin Finish) and UA-70389 (Matte Finish) are both true urethane topcoats, which means they have exceptional long-term durability and the fade resistance needed for restoration work. Provides excellent protection against UV, chemicals and everyday use. New-and-improved formula provides even greater consistency, with superb resistance to scratching, scuffing and marring.

Hot Rod Black has the flexibility to be used in any number of applications, for accent or overall work on street rods, choppers, old school gassers, muscle cars and sport tuners. Can also be used on interior parts, chassis and under-hood components. Always refer to Technical Data Sheet for more complete information as well as mixing and application directions.

HOT ROD BLACK AT A GLANCE

COATING TYPE: Single-stage urethane topcoat
MIXES: 3:1 with ULTRA-GLO Activator (UA-1600M / UA-1600S)
VOC: 2.8 VOC meets all current regulations, including SCAQMD 1168

 

I second HotRodPrimers Kirker Hot Rod Black. On his recommendation I recently painted a 54 F100 with it and was very impressed with the results. We also used Kirkers black sealer as an undercoat.

 

I have found it to not have good UV stability in Northern California sun.

 

HRP, Your truck was satin and not matte correct?.

 

Thanks guys! I'm leaning toward Kirker's Hot Rod Black. The '32 pickup is exactly the color I'm looking for. Is that the satin or matte finish?
Seems odd they only sell it in 3/4 of a gallon. I'll be painting the inside of the cowl, doors, bun panels, etc also. I hope 3/4 gal will be enough.

 

THIS! My honey and her Dad used to work for John Deere and they both sold the hell out of the Blitz Black because it was made specifically for TRACTORS and you know they (tractors) sit out in fields a LOT! That stuff seems to last forever.

 

SEM Hot Rod Black !!!
https://www.semproducts.com/product/hot-rod-black-kit/kit

 

Use the John Deere Blitz Black on many of my H D parts just as good as H D Denim Black and matched good @ 1/4 the price

 

Plus one on SEM, they make quality products that work well

 

Being a old hotroder myself,playing in the late 50s to start with,and still build rods. Why anyone thinks primer or even satin look remotely like a finish of anykind? ,still blows me away. Sure it was on cars before they got shiny,but was not a finish or thought of as one. Satin was what happen if painter screwed up bad with gloss paint ,not a good look then,has not got any better to me. { in todays bubble of BS about hotrod black HA HA,a made up name based on how it was,but was not} The most lam thing I hear a lot is how you can't buy shiny with your $,really ? To start with flats are not water proof,that part of what make them flat looking,an why it rusts,you can't clean flats for crap an same thing pretty much for satins beside that they were not a finish.{Newer very high $ can be water proof,but with those you blow away savng $ an still look like crap. Talk a bit about cost,as long as your wishing for high$ type paints,just pick a color n paint like Rustoilm an do it =water proof an cleans very well an looks way better then no shin . This is buffed out gloss black Rust-Oleum on my own rod,this rod has been repainted the same way a few times from first built in 1959 to now,this paint showing is now 5 years old in the pic.
Hope that save ya $ or at lest makes ya think shiny.

 

It mixes 3:1 with activator, so 3 quarts of paint and 1 quart of activator gives you a gallon. Somewhat standard packaging practice for 2 component paints sold primarily for DIY use. If you had a full gallon of paint then you'd need 1 1/3 quarts of activator and would have to buy 2 quarts. Once its opened, the activator has a fairly short shelf life, so saving the remainder for a later job isn't prectical.

 

Doing alright in the Az weather !

Sent from my SM-G900V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

My dataset shows about 15 failures.

Your dataset shows one success.

 

Catalyzed urethane, with a flattening agent is most assuredly waterproof.

 

Ive done kirker on a couple of cars seems to hold up real well.

 

I've got Hot Rod Flatz satin black on my coupe. Didn't cover as good as I would have liked but over all it's ok. Car has been painted at least five years with no fading and it's for sure waterproof.

 

Some have missed the point,was old flats were not water proof,new maybe are,but are still not a finish if your trying to be like 1950s to 1960s. Cars that were not finished were not even aloud in big car show. Bubble of BS has formed an many actully think flat was a hotrod finish back then. I said how it really was !! I was there doing hotrods in the 50s,no one thought a finished car was any thing but shiny. Yes some never made it to shiny,but all were going to be! Using old photo of a car that had not yet got to shiny,is miss ready the photo for what it shows{ so by copying that flat,your only copying something 1/2 done.

There will be a time not far off,there will be no one left that was part of how it was,to even try an fix understandings of how things were done. Some hotrods today in some ways,are like western movies,not very spot on to real life. Human reaction is often to deny info,that runs counter to a thing you desided you liked. But in this case,its AOK to like a car 1/2 done,just don't think it is done ,have a real out look about your pick of paint,vs bubble of BS ,it's a done look or NOT ]

 

Dana Barlow, I appreciate your perspective and love hearing from the guys that were there.
I often see cars that are flat and feel like it would be an awesome shiny car but some circumstances don't allow that. My car is flat.
My car is a piece of shit. It is wrinkled and abused. 34 parts aren't cheap. Its all steel and solid but if I replaced every panel the original car would be gone. If I straightened every panel it would take a lifetime with how much I have to work my job. So its flat. One uniform coat of flat black. Totally reversible if I ever have the time and not rust. All the parts are pre 48 so at least that's traditional.
Not arguing just some perspective from a guy that had to weld junk together. There used to be a lot more to work with. In the 40s or 50s I imagine nobody would have bothered with the mess I welded together. But again I wasn't there so maybe they did.

 

Some people just like the look of what appears to be faded paint.

My daily spends a ton of time outside. The warm California sun, and nighttime fog would kill a nice paint job, or what's left after the park-by-Braille drivers get done with it. It gets cleaned with Windex, and a rag.

It's as done as it is going to get. I like it, and I have never received a negative comment about it, save for the wonder why I did not put a V8 in it.

It is not historic, or important. It is just welded together junk.

 

There are flat painted cars that look good and shiny cars that look bad. It is all in who does the work.
Same car flat and shiny

 

Make mine shiney, please.

 

I realize that most of us have budgets and some are pretty restricted,but having done all that work to get your car to the paint stage, don't go cheap now. Paint is what everybody sees first and is the single most attractive aspect of most cars. Of course, if you've got 2 blown Hemis in Bantam coupe, that might attract my eye as well.

 

When I build a car for someone else, I will do exactly that.

 

JD blitz black, works good and is cheap as it comes.