Technical Only starts when letting off ignition

You gotta have that starter "I" terminal wired to the coil. It's a must have item as important as can be.

if it's not there, 99.5% chance the issue goes away after installing it.

 

The IGN. Wire is on wrong position on IGN switch.seen this a bunch of times.

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As it turns out, getting to the solenoid was harder than I had figured. I don't have jacks or friends with jacks, so I waited until I had a second pair of hands around.

It just so happened that Dad was visiting this weekend. We spent some quality time in the garage. There was a header right in the way, we ended up McGuyver'ing an extension for my socket wrench. After much effort and many words I wouldn't use in church, we finally got that sucker on there.

Just like that... problem solved. No more starting issues.

Today was a good day and I have this message board to thank for it.

I'm grateful for all the responses. I especially want to thank prewarcars4me, much appreciated brother – If we ever cross paths, I'm buying you a few rounds.

 

Jumper the resistor and see if it starts if it does add the wire if not check the switch. But I would still add the wire.

 

Thanks for reporting what cured it.

 

Check your work by testing if the input wire to resistor (or coil+) is HOT with key in ACC position. Should not be. If it is, find the correct IGN pole on switch (gets HOT w/key on and stays HOT during cranking) to connect that wire to.

 

At some point I would remove that choke wire from your ign. wire and run it to a 12 volt source that is fused. The way it is now if your electric choke was to go bad and short out it would also ground out your ignition

 

I second that!

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Forgot to add...12 volts when key is on power.

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Just checking to see if you did this test? result?

 

It's always important to check the work. Wouldn't want any issues.

Took off the wire recently added wire from the coil and hooked it up to a multimeter. No volts with the key in the ACC position... 8volts (+/-) only when the engine is cranking.

Thank you!

 

Grounding out the ignition sounds bad. I'll look for another 12 volt source.

Should I be looking for a 12v source that is always hot, or only when the engine cranks?

Also, if there aren't any easy pickin's and I need to add a fuse, any suggestions on what volt that fuse should be?

Thanks!

 

Hot with key on

 

It's been discussed before but (assuming it's standard 12v negative ground) you want +12v to coil + when key is on and cranking only.
So 12v from ign. switch on position to ballast resistor, other side of ballast to coil +. This coil + side goes to starter solenoid, small terminal that goes to ign. switch crank position.
So when cranking resistor is bypassed, coil + gets full voltage. Then key on, power goes through resistor.
No power in accessory or off position.
Be sure block is grounded to frame.

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In stock form the resistor bypass is at the ignition switch in those day's and was "not taken from the starter solenoid". See Ignition 1 and Ignition 2


Here's another view explaining when switch is only in on position (right upper arrows) and when switch is in start position (left arrow)........


If stock switch has been replaced with a universal ignition switch. Then what other's have said before here. Go this route.

 

I really wish people would read entire threads before posting, as in many cases, including this one, there are people posting suggestions for a fix when in actuality the problem has been resolved.

 

^^^^^ I seen that. I still posted what I felt needed to be shared for future generations.

 

You're absolutely right. That way whether through switch or starter solenoid the coil gets full power when cranking.
I've seen so many friends old cars over the years that cranking coil + or on voltage would be like 5volts. They wondered why it was hard to start or low engine power.

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Good point the electric choke is a separate issue, will start another thread to avoid confusion.

Thanks!

 

That's crazy talk!