I made a trunnion front coil spring compressor/decompressor using 6" diameter pipe and 3/4" threaded rod. I need a 1-1/8 " deep well socket that is 6" deep. The 6" deep well socket will travel up the threaded rods about 5-1/2" to compress the coil spring and after the spring is removed from the car it will be decompressed the coil spring. The 6" deep well socket will be much faster than using a wrench. Can't find it on the internet.
Never seen one.... Get a 'regular' deepwell, cut it in half, insert a piece of pipe in a suitable size and weld the ends to it.
McMaster-Carr https://www.mcmaster.com/#drive-sockets/=69df6b714f3945e9838b7533a710ed59jingvi5w This is six inches overall length, not six inches deep so, it may not fit your needs.
I have done what Not So Crazy Steve says. There is no other reasonable way. Cheaper and way faster than Snap On. You should have been done by now
We always made stuff like that. Heavy wall pipe welded to a cut in half socket. Pretty easy to do. SPark
I'll make a suggestion.... Home-made pullers/compressors like this always suffer from one major shortcoming; they're not made out of a hardened tool steel like 'store bought' tools are. The relatively soft all-thread won't last very long (even if lubed), consider that part of the tool as disposable if you use it more than rarely. The same goes for the 'regular' nuts you're using, except that they'll strip out even faster. To extend the life of the all-thread, use rod couplers instead. These are 3-4 times longer than a regular nut, spreading the load over more threads. These will last longer than the nuts too. And rather than building a long socket, build a long 'nut'. Buy four rod couplers, weld one into each end of two suitable-length pieces of pipe, now you have your extensions with a nut on each end, and it's reversible when one end goes bad. The rod couplers are usually 1-2 sizes smaller across the 'hex' than nuts, so the 'bulk' will be less, allowing it to fit into tight confines better.
Crazy Steve. I like your idea. Cut-off wheel should do the trick with a 7018 electrode to weld ends to thick wall pipe. Laroke the McMaster-Carr is a $50.00 + shipping.... crap shoot without knowing how deep the well is. Printed the page and saved just in case? Roger I find it interesting an aviation plug socket is available in 1-1/8". Thanks for all the ideas!
^^^Good, practical idea. Everything available thru standard hardware suppliers, too. Snap-On supplied me with a set of 6" half-inch drive impact type sockets, (6" overall) They were used for Jacobs Brakes on various types of big rigs. 1/2"-1", no 1-1/8".
I really would recommend using rod couplers rather than nuts, that extends the life of the all-thread and nuts considerably...
Steve, Took your advice. Just returned from the hardware store. Couplings are 2-1/4" long, and the nuts I won't be using are only 5/8" long. I do need to weld a grade five 9/16" bolt to a slider(2" pipe that slides on the 3/4" threaded rod) for each side. The 9/16" bolt head needs a 3/16" gap to fit in the saddle of the coil spring. The coupling will move the slider compressing the coil spring about 5-1/2" making it possible to remove the coil spring.. Here is a scary picture of a removed coil spring being stored under compression. Notice the saddle hole openings for the 9/16" bolt heads to fit into. I did not make these trunnion coil spring compressors. Second picture shows how the nut will move the slider to compress the spring. No version of this tool was ever commercially manufactured. A coil spring compressor was never made for trunnion coil springs.
Along the same idea as this thread a socket broke off of my 4 way lug stench so I ground the stub down to half inch square and welded on a Craftsmen socket
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