Technical Minimum hp for bead roller gear motor

I just scored two like new Bodine fractional hp gear motors, I know one is too small at only 1/60 hp, but wondering if I can use the bigger one on a bead roller, it’s 1/20th. Too small? I’m not sure what they would have been for.

 

this one is rated 1/15 hp.

https://www.trick-tools.com/Upgrade_Mittler_Bros_Manual_Bead_Roller_to_Standard_Motor_200_302_4370

as long as the gearing is right, it should work...????

 

Mine is 1/15th hp and I wish it were more but it is 20yrs old and still working.

 

I am no expert, but right now, I am in the process of building my own electric powered bead roller.
I've looked around and concluded around a 1/4HP is pretty darn good, but in my own case have scored a 1/2HP motor with reduction box for next to nothing so I plan to run that sucker.
Good luck with your choice.

 

I have been wondering if a motor and controller off a treadmill would work?

 

it would probably need quite a bit more speed reduction, eh?

 

Treadmill motors are huge.
3hp is not uncommon.

 

I have purchased a controller for my project, but not being much on electronics I was guided by others.
I was told to get my drive speed down as slow as I wanted it mechanically (reduction box and sprocket sizes) then add the variable speed electronic controller to speed my motor up.
So far this is my plan.
The variable speed controller also offers other features including a reverse setting and foot pedal plug in.
I'm just taking one step at a time for now.

 

I think the motor on mine is 1/3 hp. Even with a serious gear reduction, it runs way too fast. Real slow would be much better then too fast. If I try to get too big of a bite for the bead, the belt will slip. I don't use it as often as I would if it would run slower, but I'm not sure I can get it geared slower with the pulleys that are available these days. Currently, it has become another storage shelf. Gene

 

Don't know what the minimum would be but have a 1/10 hp 12 rpm Dayton (3m136b) on my bead roller that I think works pretty well. Unless a motor is going to be underpowered I would be more concerned w/rpms.

Sometimes you're money ahead by ponying up..

 

Yes, workable roller RPM is the critical result you should be shooting for, obvious opportunity to raise the speed when appropriate.
I have a 55:1 reduction box and it has a 15 tooth sprocket driving a 45 tooth sprocket which I am hoping will be about the slowest speed I'll need and I will speed it up electrically when required.
I'm using a #45 size chain.

Too slow on simple easy stuff would drive you nuts, but too fast on fiddly stuff would be just way too hard to expect a good result...
I am building it traditional style using a banjo diff as part of my pedestal base.