Hello. I believe my original 3 on the tree column was cut and shortened to convert to power steering. The previous adjustable steering shaft failed and I’d like to replace it. So after inspecting it looks like the steering column rod that was cut just had a groove cut into it so the u-joint could attach to it. How could I convert this makeshift rod more safe when attaching a u-joint? Is there a company that makes custom splined shafts so I could replace the whole rod in the column?
Not sure what the rod from the u-joint is but you could replace the rod with a double D shaft available from most speed part companies. I replaced the whole steering column on my '41. The new column had a shaft that the DD slipped in and is held in place with a locking screw and nut. The u-joint accepted the shaft and a the same locking system. You had to drill a indent into the shaft for the screw to lock into.
I’d like to replace my column due to the fact that I know it would come with the new Double D rod like you stated but I also want to keep it standard 3 on the tree with the original type steering wheel. From what Ive read through vendors websites not only would I not be able to mount the shift lever but I would also have to use a modern steering wheel. I don’t want that.
you could just get rid of all that power steering stuff, and find an original gearbox/column to put back into the truck. Keep all the neat old stuff. These trucks dont' need power steering if you keep the front tires skinny and leave the big original steering wheel.
What most of us AD truck guys who want to run the original top part of the column do is either have the double D machined into the shaft or grind the flat (s?) on it to slip a double D female piece over it. The other way would be to find a later non tilt column like a mid 70's Chevy truck and use the shaft with the double D on it out of it That will take some mixing and matching to get a bearing to work with both the stock tube and the DD shaft. The top of the shaft is the same and I think the diameter of the top part is the same. The right Borgson joint is probably the simple way to do it though with a lot less engineering involved.
The photo is a bit hazy but I am rather thinking that someone swapped suspension and steering on that truck from what I am seeing. From looking at that groove cut in it I'd guess that they used this style of U joint before https://www.amazon.com/Steering-U-Joint-Smooth-Both-Ends-3/dp/B007IIWK9Q All of your steering pressure is on that set screw.
I’d actually prefer to do that but there’s a shock in the way of where I believe the pitman arm would be located. I’d prefer to leave the shock as is. I’ll post a pic so y’all can give advise if it would be in the way. I think I like the replace to original option and the shave 2 sides for a Double D joint.
The shock is angled back way too much, and that means the shock won't do it's job as well. ..and the imaginary centerline of the actual "ball" in each of those two draglink tie-rod ends needs to be parallel with the road. I can't tell if it will be as it is not connected yet. If that rod runs at an angle, then as you go over a bump, the angled drag link rod will try to steer the truck if you hold the steering wheel straight. Called "bump steer" And with the PS box input shaft mounted horizontal as shown, that means you most likely will need another U-joint at the box....not a rag joint. .
That's a pretty popular steering conversion for AD trucks. This is an old set of instructions with photos from CPP http://www.classicperform.com/power2.htm Tech article from Brothers with the same swap using what they sell with lots of photos http://blog.brotherstrucks.com/1947-59-power-steering-installation/ Stock steering box with a V8 in an AD =47/54 Chevy truck is it's own can of worms as there is no left side exhaust that will clear the steering box when it is in it's stock position. You end up spacing the box out off the frame and having to deal with that issue. Several guys over on http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/forumdisplay.php?f=13 Have done that swap with the steering and some have done the steering column mod.
I suggest get your shaft machined to accept a borguson joint its handy to have one splined joint in the system to align the steering wheel.that way you keep your steering wheel and column and your shifter.this is what I did with my stock column to keep original appearance.borguson also do a colapsable section that would absorb an impact in the event of a collision save your chest being impaled by a steering shaft you will a nylon bush for the end of the column or a bearing or a bronze bush.
I don’t recall any bump steer before. Then again I didn’t drive it much before this whole unfortunate issue came up. The reason for all this is the adjustable steering shaft that was mounted failed. The u-joint that mounted to the gear box was oversized and eventually rattled off as I was driving. So one end of the shaft is too big and the other end is mounted questionably.
That emphasizes the necessity of having the pieces sized right and properly secured. One thing, I think they have some sort of bearing setup on the bottom of the column for the shaft but if they don't, use a bearing rather than a bushing. If things are even slightly out of line with the rest of it a bushing will bind just a bit when you are turning. i went to the ER with chest pains after drivng my 51 Merc a couple hundred miles in a day with a bushing fitted in the stock column when I first subframed it rather than a bearing. Found out that all of my chest muscles were inflamed from the extra pressure of steering it. Funny thing was it didn't feel like it steered that hard but did take a bit of extra pressure.
We have done a dozen 47-54 AD truck onto S10 frames and probably another dozen using the Toyota 4wd steering box and on ones where the owner wants to keep the original column we make a bushing with a grease zerk or use a bearing at the bottom of the cut off column. The column has to be anchored to the toe board and one can use a fancy anchor with a pivot ball or just weld a plate to the column and screw it to the floor (picture). The 2-3 shift arm on the factory shifter box is cut off and the tang on the shift rod is welded into the notch in the 1st-reverse shift arm. This put the shift lever into the correct position for an automatic. You can also spend big bucks and use all ready made stuff. Recommend a start in park only switch which is a boat starter button (all weather) that a wire from ignition switch to the starter solenoid runs through (picture) or again, you can put big bucks in Lokar's pocket. We buy a 20ft length of 3/4 cold rolled rod for $23 and can make at least 8 steering shafts from it or you can buy one 3ft double D for about $40. A round shaft with a 0.100 taken off each side to fit the U-joint is prettier than a full length DD in my opinion and way less costly.
OUCH,FUCK IT,did you walk away unhurt.crap work is crap work where ever you find it.fitted by unqualified dumbass probably.
Damn.! Take that bullshit off and go back to stock stuff! Hell we know that works. Typical Half Ass work. Re do it all....go back stock.
Yup. I walked away fine. It was actually unusual how calm I was. My heart rate was about as high as if someone asked me to hop on one leg. Kinda weird. Anyway, I think that’s what I’ll do. Re do everything or go back to stock. I already looked up a reman box and column was cheaper than the power steering kit.
order up a borguson catalogue.theres a lot of cars worldwide using their stuff with no problemsyous looks like a straight forward hook up.any system will fail if parts are incorrect ,badly fitted ,loose or not locktited with correct strength thread locker use threadlocker lockwire locknutslockwashers on everythingthings don't come loose anymore
I have a Toyo 4WD P/S box in my '55 F100. A custom made drag link centered everything up after moving the axle 1.25" forward to center wheel in fender well. Pretty? Yeah, pretty. I used a Mid-'50s solid adapter for the box, "Mounts to original holes!" Yeah, almost. Had to file the main sector shaft hole 3/16" forward, and 2 of the 1/2" mounting holes as well. (grrrr!) The kit bolts to secure the adaptor were 3/8" U.S.S. (coarse!) thread. Poor fit in 1/2" bores in frame...they loosen up in 30 miles! So...when I tear the front sheet metal off, I'll drill all 3 (one at a time, for 'jig') to 1/2", then use long thru-bolts with SAE (fine) threads and crush end nuts. I still consider rebuilding my stock F100 box and getting rid of the: P/S pump. Toyota part on my truck. U-joint in my steering mast.
The steering pump squeals now after the accident so that’s another reason to maybe revert back to original. I’ll have to weigh my time vs money to help me decide.
I made a separate post regarding the steering rod. Before I take it to get machined I’d like to make sure it’s sturdy enough to be machined and hold together when I put the u-joint on. It looks to be.