Technical You picked a fine time to leave me, loose wheel...

It's same as the old Chrysler (left hand threads on the pass side). Isn't the idea to have them want to tighten (or not back off) with the centrifugal force of driving forward?

 

So @flynbrian48 you do have the Left Adapter on the Left Side (I assume that means Driver Side)
and the one marked Right Adapter on the Right Side? Your talking thread direction on the hubs themselves seems odd correct?

Quoted details below PDF attached...


Dayton Wheel Concepts
115 Compark Road – Dayton, Ohio 45459
800-862-6000 – www.daytonwirewheel.com
Installation Instructions for Dayton Knock-off Wheels

To install adapters correctly place hub adapter marked “left”, and with white mesh thread guard, on left side of car. Hub adapter marked “right”, and with red or
brown mesh thread protector, must be installed on right side of car. THIS IS IMPORTANT! DO NOT INSTALL ANY OTHER WAY!

Thread On Cap
Thread knock-off caps on the adapter. Markings on caps indicate proper tightening direction. “Left side” caps must be used on the left side of car and “Right side”
caps must be used on right side of car.

 

And now lady's & gentleman for my next trick I will set myself on fire. HRP

 

i had a Glassic roadster with side mounts. the side mounts did not have a hold downs. i came up to a 4 way intersection and the driver side spare flew out and took off across the intersection, down the street on the wrong side. no cars in sight so i took off after it. it travelled down the road and across a front yard, then the next yard, bounced a swale into another yard. when i thought it was slowing down i pulled the car over and jumped out and chased it through two more yards before it hit a front stoop and wobbled into my path so i could grab it.

 

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You had horseshoes up the wazoo too...

My nearest moment of potential embarrassment was a few days ago when doing a walk around the Ole Jalopy and the F1 Shock Mount I installed last year after the old one broke had one bolt 3/4 backed out and the second of two 1/2 way out...I could swear I tightened it when I installed it last year...I've already driven it several times this year...not to mention the 5-6 hour drive to my new place last year...with that new mount...

They are tight now...

Rolling tires can be lethal so especially with the oldies we drive a walk around could save our lives and others from disaster.

 

I always prefer those lessons that don't involve blood or gunfire

 

Saw a semi truck wheel and tire cross the median and take out a brand new Caddy Sedan De Ville a few years back. Never saw which truck it came off of, just happened to see it when it was in the median rolling, went up and jumped about 20 foot into the air before it hit the northbound pavement and then the Caddy centered it.

Had a old Chevy AD 1 1/2 ton lose BOTH front tires right in front of my house once, too. We looked around, but only found one of the tires. About three months later found the other one, it had busted through the side of a plywood building next door and made itself all the way to the back of the 12' building.

Lots of stored energy in a tire that comes off like that.

 

Yes these incidents are just something to refresh the memory that we gotta be careful and double check our footsteps. I don't want to get into the nastiness I know how bad it can be. I've near been hit by one.

 

I drove a Austin Healey 3000 for years it came from the factory with Knock Offs and the lead mallet for them was in the tool pouch that came with the car. In the owners manual it stated when tightening always hit the knock off on the rear or rearward facing flange. I always took this to mean that you hit down to tighten and up to loosen. It also said that they were not to be over tightened. What the hell that meant I am not sure or at least how you were supposed to tell if they were over tightened. I mean some of us just plain hit harder than others. Maybe those English fellers all hit the same hardness.

 

It does mention the Lead Mallet in the PDF I posted on the Dayton Knock-Off adapters...

Tighten Caps
While car is still on jacks run the knock-off caps up tight. Two-eared and 3-eared caps must be tightened with a Dayton WireWheel lead hammer. Octagon,
Dome, Diamond, and OTD caps must be tighten with the appropriate wrench and lead hammer. Wrench tightening alone is not sufficient.

One other item here talks of cap usage per side and I cant imagine it would even thread on if you had them mixed up...unless the hub was on incorrectly of course

Thread On Cap
Thread knock-off caps on the adapter. Markings on caps indicate proper tightening direction. “Left side” caps must be used on the left side of car and “Right side”
caps must be used on right side of car.

 

Stogy said "One other item here talks of cap usage per side and I cant imagine it would even thread on if you had them mixed up...unless the hub was on incorrectly of course"

Stogy I think you hit the nail on the head. "Unless the hub was on incorrectly" Just may be the problem.

For those that aren't familiar with knock offs. The hub bolts onto car just like a wheel does, with five lug bolts, it is splined on the outside of the hub and the wheel has corresponding splines, these engage when you install the wheel to the hub. Since the hubs are bolt on they "COULD" be bolted onto any of the four spindles or axles. Another words you could have the right side hub on the left side of the car. Knock offs have been around for decades and decades the are a positive and fast way to mount a wheel and tire. Indy cars and almost all Sports cars still use some form of a knock off today. If they are good for a 200 MPH Ferrari that is good enough for me personally. When the wheel is installed correctly and on the correct side they are pretty much fool proof.

 

We'll see what Brian has to say about it...he didn't respond about the instructions I posted. At any rate he is quite fortunate and we can thank the lucky stars it wasn't more serious.

 

I was wrong. I went out and looked at a sprint car axle (one big nut in the center) and it's "left is right and right is wrong". Left nut goes on normal, right nut is left hand thread.

Right side goes counter clockwise to tighten and left side goes clockwise to tighten on a sprinter with a single center nut.

My apologies for the confusion, been a few years since I messed with changing a sprint car tire!

SPark

 

Brian will let us know sandals intact...

 

He has them on correctly and as far as the sandals go, I wear them everyday rain or shine (except at work or dressing up) since 5th grade or so.....I even weld in them .

Beach walkers, thongs, flip flops, Jesus boots...........

 

Yes, that's exactly how they're supposed to be mounted, and that's how they are. I think my error(s) were twofold, not having the proper tool (the lead hammer), and using a rubber mallet so they weren't tight enough, and secondly not rechecking them after having driven them a couple hundred miles. Who knew putting ONE nut on would be so difficult for me?

 

Easy way to tell if it is on the correct side is to spin the wheel in forward direction and hold the spin on nut on the threaded spindle and it should do itself up.I have center mount rudge wheels on a 57 porsche. This is how i was told to check.

 

You can't use a lead mallet these days as the health police reckon lead affects the developing brains of children. It's a good thing that years of lead wiping cars and making sinkers from the sweepings hasn't affected me, hasn't affected me, hasn't affected me..........What was I talking about.

 

Thank goodness you weren't wearing shower shoes and socks. That would have been really bad.

 

Years ago I had a buddy with a TR6. As with all of his cars, this one had issues. The threads on the hub were badly worn on a couple of his wheels and it gave some warning, especially the clunk-clunk around corners. He had one come off when he was driving alone.

I put my Ford together 2 years ago and was out for a 50-mile shake down ride. The next day I had to jack up the rear to look at something... the LR wheel was quite loose! Must have gotten overlooked along the way. I went around the car and torqued them all. Funny it was rock solid when I was doing 70 with it.

 

While on a long and tiring trip, in our 50 Chev Ute, a trip that included a trip on a flat be to a drive shaft shop, a flat bed trip later to a tire shop, a AAA call for an empty tank (I guess empty on the gauge is really empty).
Finally on our way home driving the 101 fwy North of Eureka, a funny noise in the rear gave me some concern, we stopped and everything looked ok. A few miles down the road, 55+ mph, when the rear dropped, the ute started to spin, we just missed three cars, and then a sudden jar ending in the thank goodness wide grass median. We had lost the left rear tire (saw it roll by), flatten the right tire. Lose lug nuts in the wheel and the noise was the rim rattling until the nuts tore through. Found the loose rim in the weeds about 100 yard up, and a bunch of our luggage was up the road.
An ass clincher for sure.
And that was just the start of the story

 

You ain't lived until your wheel passes you on the highway.

 

I love me some Rainbow flops!!!!

 

If they are splined, it shouldn't be a problem whatever direction the threads are. The right and left hand threads go back to wagon wheels that had bushings and could rub on the nut and turn it. If it turned, they didn't want it to loosen and fall off so they used left hand threads on the left side and right hand thread on the right side. The wheels turned forward most of the time as they didn't back up very far with horses or oxen.

There can also be confusion as to which is the right and left side of the vehicle. I always view it from the drivers left and right but some people view it from standing in front of the vehicle.

 

Bet. Title. Ever!
Thanks for the entertainment, glad you and the car are in one piece.
My knock offs scare me so I triple checked the research before driving it. Top spoke always tighten toward the rear of the car, always use a lead hammer, install hub clips and safety wire.

I have the clips installed but haven't got around to drilling the wheels for the wire, the knock offs came with one spoke pre-drilled. I will do so before putting actual miles on the car.

Thanks for the important safety tip!

 

Looks like those types of wheels would be a good candidate for .032" safety wire.

 

About 1964 or so at Riverside Int. raceway a Cobra came around turn 6 ran over someones exhaust header and spun and lost a wheel, it went over the fence and nailed about 5 spectators, fortunately the only damage to them was some bruises and spilled beers. Even with all that I've heard I still want some wheels like Bandit Billies, I would like to hear more about his set up and installation with pictures

 

I'll never have knock offs again.
Coming back from a ski trip, one came off on a turn still on the mountain.
It went over.
Some times, its not fun to be the car owner, when everyone else is buying gas, lift tickets, room, eats.
Cause, You got the car. You get the wheel. It was about 200 feet in the ravine, with snow, cold, getting dark fast.
At least they found the hub nut.
Glad you're OK.

 

About 45 years ago, my brother and I were going out to the Grand Canyon. All of a sudden, this guy pulling a tandem axle U-Haul trailer with a car on it, flew by us on this two lane blacktop. We were only doing about 50-55 mph and just when he got back into our lane, the right rear wheel came off and headed for the ditch.

When it hit the ditch, the wheel went flying in the air about 50-60 ft., right over the fence and came down in the middle of this herd of horses! Of course, it scared the heck out of those horses and they went shi__in' and a gittin' in every direction!

My brother and I laughed so hard we had to stop and collect ourselves together again! The funniest part was the guy didn't even know it happened, and just kept on going! We still laugh about it today!