I'm not in the UK. Germany is where I'm based. It's allowed here on pre-72 cars as it was standard up until then. The 32 pickup didn't even come with safety glass at all as standard. Sent from my SM-G935F using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Like most pickups, the 32 has a little bit of room behind the seat. It's not much but it'll hold a tool role, a jack and some spare fluids. I'll also put in that nifty set from Bob Drake to remove hubcaps. To stop things rattling around I carpeted the area using some off cuts from a local factory who makes carpets for Mercedes Benz. The front edge carpet was located using a gold anodized carpet trim. The cab back carpet was stuck on with double sided tape and the floor bit just rests on the floor. I also converted a late model Ford jack. Welded a lug nut on the end and used a section of torque tube welded to the top as a cradle for the axles. I coated that with beads of silicon to prevent the axles getting scratched. Sent from my SM-G935F using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Also fitted the header instrument panel and wired that all up. Next up - fitting the windshield. Sent from my SM-G935F using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Sorry, I should have seen that you are German. But I still prefer safety glass. When I was installing some new glass in my 32 sedan I found the setting tape was too thick for the glass to fit into my tracks. I ended up using just 3M black urethane to glue them in. If I had to do the windshield I would probably do the same process. Then the rough edge of the setting tape wouldn't show either. You can wipe the urethane smooth before it dries and make a nice water-tight edge.
You can get a security film that they use in rally cars that addresses this problem. Demon Tweeks carry it. Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Just found your thread.My compliments. On the fuel gauge -run a 5/16 -24 die on the threads to clean them as they get corroded over the years.That's what I do in the gauge rebuilding process.The speedo turtle on a 32 originally was mounted on the bottom side angled up on the right side.In '33 they mounted on the top and pointed to the left side.
Thanks. Yes you're right. However finding a die small enough to fit is the problem. It's really close to the back of the gauge. Sent from my SM-G935F using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Set back. No. 2. I'd found a great looking aluminium remote oil filter housing. It uses the stock Flathead filters and even the lid is the same. However I've never seen one like this. Unfortunately it was cracked around the inlet boss. I found someone who claimed he could weld it. Anyway he couldn't! He made a real dogs dinner out of it and now it's definitely not restorable:-( So on Saturday I drove over to David Pontones and he had another one! And it was perfect. These filters came from Argentina and they might be locally made. I've only ever seen two. Today I cleaned it up and mounted it on the firewall. Very relieved! Sent from my SM-G935F using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Was that made for an actual cartridge, or a roll of toilet paper? I've got a few different filter canisters that were actually made to hold TP, and think that there must be a proper cartridge out there somewhere with the proper dimensions to fit them.
Well the Ford cartridge fits in there but I'm not sure how it's supposed to work. Still not figured out how the cleaned oil in the center of the filter gets into the central tube. Sent from my SM-G935F using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I worked out how the filter flows. There's a tiny hole in the side of the tube inside the canister. It was blocked. Sent from my SM-G935F using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Make sure you have a restricted fitting on the inlet to that canister. Flathead Fords needed this restriction to keep up pressure in the rest of the system, since the filter is only doing 5% of the oil at a time. I don't remember the size of the hole in this fitting, but I think it's around 1/16". See if you can find the measurement in a flathead reference book.
Yes I've got that mounted. I was doing the engine side oil lines today but ran out of copper tubing so the rest will have to wait. Sent from my SM-G935F using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
No matter what, you can never fit the rubbing strips on the bed on your own. Unless you've got arms like a chimpanzee. So today Henry came to work with his dad and helped me fit the strips. Sent from my SM-G935F using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Edward, Do you have any shots of the box structure/framework by chance? or could take a few shots of yours while its on its side? I'm helping a friend put his box together using new structure pieces from MAC's using original sides and I'm not sure if they sent the wrong parts. Brandon
Brandon, Ive built a new one before and it's a mystery at first how it goes together. I'll take some pictures for you. Best advice I can give you now is. Start building the subframe first building it on your chassis. You'll need the rear mounts too which don't come with the bed set. Sent from my SM-G935F using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Here's some photos of the bed subframe taken from the front to the rear. The side rails have cut outs to clear the frame at the top of the kickup. The center crossmember also has cut outs to clear the frame. The first photos are of the rear mount which you'll need to source or make. The crossmembers have holes for the D nuts which you need to install before assembly. The bed kit comes with loads of rivets to rivet the bed together but you can assemble with nuts, bolts and lockwashers instead. Sent from my SM-G935F using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I've been making progress on the 32 pickup lately. The F1 steering box is fitted but I haven't got the nut to secure the Pitman arm on the sector shaft. Macs don't sell one. Can anyone tell me where I can buy a new one? That'd be great. Only a few hundred small things to do and it'll be ready for it's first test drive. Sent from my SM-G935F using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
What is the size? 1 inch? Will the orig '32-34 work if you have one? I can check with a buddy in Calif when they wake up.Its 6:30 AM there now.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...d+v8,1486988,steering,steering+gear+nut,12705 $3.55 with washer....don't get much cheaper than that.
I found out why my banjo axle was leaking so badly. My axle builder hadn't put even the thinnest gasket on one side. I need to seal it somehow. Would it hurt to install the thinnest gasket available? Should I apply a thin smear of silicon to the gasket to ensure a good seal? Or is this going to throw off the bearing settings too much? I suppose I could use a shim under the bearing to compensate. The gasket set does come with shims. But that would mean pulling the new bearing which may be difficult. Sent from my SM-G935F using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
The truck is very nearly finished. I'll post pictures as soon as it's finished and washed. On to another matter. I'm looking for another original 1932 front crossmember to repair the next 32 frame. Has anyone out there got one stashed away I could have? Strange how most 32s run Model-A front crossmembers but the original ones are still hard to find! Sent from my SM-G935F using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I spend the afternoon cleaning and polishing the truck. Here it is - finished. Sent from my SM-G935F using The H.A.M.B. mobile app