Howdy guys, I recently started a clutch job on my 65 Ranchero and found that someone monkeyed this thing to work. They put a Ford 3.03 toploader 3speed (which requires a 9" flywheel, clutch, bellhousing, etc) on an early 65 200 block which was only meant for a Ford 2.77 toploader 3speed (which requires all 8.5" stuff, plus the tranny sucks and is super weak so i dont blame the guy). The issue is, that the dude used a block plate (super thin aluminum) instead of an actual adapter plate to have the top 2 bolts bolted to something. So to sum it up, I have 2 bolts attaching the bell and tranny to the engine and Im pretty sure the bell is tilting back and forth due to TO bearing squealing on hills (guessing its not lining up properly due to movement). So I have a few options: Have an actual adapter plate made for the bell, im thinking 1/4" or 5/16" thick of plate steel and move everything (linkage engine position for tranny mount, etc) accordingly as needed. (I think this may be the most economical solution but I need someone to make it). Buy a later 200 engine that has the 9" setup (No im not going to a V8, I dont have the place to do the work or the tools to do the necessary structure work for the unibody) Go back to the original 8.5" setup (which means i need to find a 8.5" bell, flywheel, new starter, clutch kit, 2.77 trans, modify the driveline for the smaller yoke, and probably go back to the 7.25" rear end that I had in it until i upgraded to the 8") I lack the funds for this nor want the crap tranny and rear end. Go through the process to put a T5 in it, yet again I need all the 8.5" stuff and lack the funds to do it all and the space and tools to get it in. This is currently at a shop right now and I'm trying to figure this out. This is my daily so I need to come up with a solution fast Please help, Ryan
From mid-ish 1965 until about 1968, the 200 was dual-drilled for both the 8-1/2" and 9" bellhousings.
Until early 65 they were all 8.5" After mid 65 they went to the dual drilled until 1967 or 68 Then after 67 or 68 they went to only 9" Trust me man, I know mine doesnt have the extra holes, and neither does my other 65 block. If it did the bolts wouldn't be going into nothing
The one on the left has the early "narrow toploader" pattern on it. The one on the right has the later "wide toploader" pattern on it (and the narrow one too.): Does your transmission match either one?
Yes that is the bell that is on the car, and the transmission I have fits that. The 2 top bolt holes at the top of the bell go into nothing except the thin block plate on my car, they dont go into the block like they should but I have no bolt holes in the block for them. The 2 side bolts do go into the block. and thats what hold my tranny and bell to the engine.
Can you see the differences in where the highest bolt pattern is? The top pic is a 60-early 65 bolt pattern. The bottom pic is the late 65-68 bolt pattern
Yes but what I'm getting at is that someone jerry riged a 9" setup on a block that only takes a 8.5" setup and I need a solution. I am thinking of getting an actual adapter plate made so I can properly use the later setup, but I need someone who's willing to make it
Okay, one quick route out would be an Econoline bell, with the narrow toploader pattern, an narrow to wide toploader adapter, and a complete 8-1/2 clutch setup (or Mercedes clutch conversion).
I understand. Any good machinist can do this. All you might need to get is a 8-1/2" bell, for the machinist to measure from. I might have a late-style heavy 8-1/2 block plate. Since the top-two 8-1/2" bell holes would be through holes for bolts, it might be good enough to use as a guide.
I do have a small bell but its made to the 2 speed tranny I have. Could that be used as a guide for the small hole setup?
Yup, you sure can! With that, and a picture of a dual-pattern block for a reference, a good shop should be able to set you up. 1/4" steel, lightly ground for parallel, should be fine. Have 1/4" milled off the block-side of your 9" bell, to preserve the overall depth. Replace your pilot bushing. It is probably degraded.
HOLY CRAP I DIDNT THINK ABOUT HAVING A BIT OF THE BELL SHAVED! That's genius! I was thinking of having to have a spacer and stuff for the flywheel but that is so much simpler to shave the bell. Thanks a lot man!
But wait, wouldn't the flywheel be pretty close to the plate unless there was a spacer for the flywheel?
I love the engine too. Real peppy and so much potential. But would there be a clearance problem between the flywheel and the plate? Just curious
Not totally sure. You would need to measure. The top-two 8-1/2" bolts would likely need to be countersunk, or button head allen bolts. There should be a block plate in there. I cannot remember if they were thick or thin on the 9" setups (8-1/2" ones had either). If there is a thick one in there, remove it, and have the adapter made to fully replace it. You can use the extra space that removing it frees up. I have a thick 8-1/2" block plate, and it's about 3/16" thick. If the 9" plate is anything like that, have a 1/4" adapter made, and don't bother shaving the bell. All of 0.0625" won't affect the clutch.
The block plate on there now is super thin like less than .125". Ok my biggest fear here is that the plate will hit the flywheel, thats no bueno obviously. But I will cross that bridge when I get there
I don't remember them being silly-close. There is some space in there. I just cannot seem to remember how much.
Alright, thanks a lot man. Also I think you're the one that helped me with my weber 32/36 on my car by telling em the jet sizes and all. Just to let you know it runs great! even peppier. I think it runs a hair rich but Id rather have a little rich rather lean. I get a little bit of a gassy smell at idle, but otherwise its great! So thanks for helping me out again lol
That was me! Do you have a fuel pressure regulator on it? The Weber is sensitive, and only needs about 2-1/2 to 3psi. The OEM pump puts out more than that.
Yes I got one from NAPA for about $40. I have it at the stock 3lbs that the regulator starts at. Should I maybe dial it back slightly to see if that helps?
Three should be good. Check your fuel lines. You should not be smelling fuel. You might also need to check the float level. If it is off, it can allow fuel to dribble.
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