Projects BACK AT IT FINALLY!! RE-BUILD OF AN EARLY CHEVY COUPE WITH A HEMI

There are guys here that have way more experience welding than I ever will, but you can read the chart to get the recommended settings to start with.

Left side, what wire size are you using? 0.030? Or 0.025? It should say on the spool of wire. I’m assuming solid wire, since you have a gas tank.

Next, pick your gas. Probably CO2 Argon is what you have.

Now, read across to the material thickness. Yours doesn’t list .125 material, .135 is probably close enough.

Looks like .125 may be just at the edge of what your machine can do. Try J 5.5 settings and see what you get. You may have to make multiple passes, or weld from both sides to get full penetration in the joint. Don’t do anything structural or safety related.

I started teaching myself last year, so I’m not much ahead of where you’re at now. Practice practice practice.

No, your gauges won’t immediately drop to zero when you close the tank.




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Hey Mike congrats on getting set up to weld! A world of opportunity has just opened up for you.

I am basically self tought as well but seem to get by. There are many that know more than me of course but I would say that you are running too cold and moving too fast. Shoot for a sound of "cracklin' bacon" if that makes sense? Do lots of practice on materials of similar thickness to your frame. Also use your practice pieces to imitate the joint you are trying to weld on your project. I've been using my little mig machine with flux core lately as it seems to bite a little harder on thicker materials. It is a smokey mess and I prefer my TIG when I can but sometimes the project calls for different methods! Best of luck and practice makes perfect!

 

@31chevymike Hamber @SinisterCustom's hotrod is the one I was thinking of with a tri five dash. Here a link to his build thread...

No Quarter...

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/no-quarter-27-t-coupe-project.303632/page-21

 

I suggest you pick up some .125 th'k steel plate and practice - practice - practice. After your confident about your abilities, then show off learned skills on the hot rod. Easier to toss the junk in the trash than have to grind inferior welds off your frame rails. Be persistent and try all different settings. Some of my better welds are completed by pushing the bead. I also use small figure 8 patterns for fillet and butt welds. You will develop your own style. Good luck!

 

For a 32 look your frame horns should extend out from the crossmember centerline 14 7/16”. Is don’t think anyone will notice if your within a 1/2” inch of this number but two or three inch not so much.
Also with the belled plates I don’t think you should bother with the square tube.


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David, I'm using .023 solid wire that came with the welder. I also bought .030 as well, just in case the need arises.

I took a video of myself Mike while I was welding and clearly heard the "cracklin' bacon" sounds, but the file was too large to upload on the thread. I'm going to use J-8 on the settings and see what happens. I'm welding on the original cross members on my frame that are still riveted as original. I'll just grind them down and re-weld to hopefully see much better results.

I remember that thread very well Stogy! I believe it was his thread that I first saw a HAMBr installing a tri-five dash in an early hot rod. Will definitely refer to it later when the need arises - thanks!

Agree totally Greaser! I've seen some videos where pushing the beads are best, as the gas should stay in front of the welds. Appreciate the advice!

Are you saying from the center of the Ford cross member that I will be welding in soon? Believe me, these new frame horns are only cleaning up the mess from the original Chevies that were on there with the front leaf springs. I didn't post some latest photos of the originals, but I need to cut out the bottom C channels where the new Ford cross member is going in because the originals were bent around the original cross member for added strength and are not flat like the rest of the chassis.

As with the belled plates, I'm figuring the chassis will need the added strength of the square tubing, especially with the added supercharger down the line. Better doing it now than later...

 

Went back in the garage for a second attempt at my "zero" welding skills... This time, I called Eastwood Tech Support and recommended that I switch over to .030 wire instead, in which I did. I turned the settings to J-7 and the weld puddle improved for sure. I made 4 beads total, one at each end of the two remaining original cross members that are staying in my frame to secure them stronger with welds.

Then I went to the front to work on the front frame horns, needing to cut out the bottom C channels to replace the originals that were bent around the bottom of the original cross member for the radiator. I'll come in later to replace with new steel.

 

try turning the heat setting up and the wire speed down just a little.

 

X-2
Are you using an extension cord?!! DON'T if you can help it. IF you must get a heavy duty on. A small one won't give you enough amps/volts. Don't ask!!!! One trick you might try........start the weld at the top of the weld seam and drag it down hill. Work the puddle back and forth as you go. Welds will NOT be as strong but....on thin stuff it doesn't matter. It will make a flatter weld and less grinding.
Hold the torch close in to the puddle too. IF you let the wire stick out a couple inches from the puddle it will get hotter and posibbly burn thru....or it will start skipping and popping and make bird dookey welds. Not good.
Clean-clean-clean metal makes a better/prettier weld. You CAN NOT "burn-out" a rust pocket when trying to weld. Oil-paint-rust makes dookey welds.
Practice-practice-practice.....and STILL occasionally hang crap! Welding can be a very humbling experience!

 

No worries.....J/K!

 

Okay, I'll try that.

Yes, I am using an extension cord. Mine is a HD one that is thicker than the power cord on my welder. It won't drop any volts at all, and have been using this same cord for my air compressor. I was led to believe that the shielding gas should be in front of the tip as you push the weld puddle. And yes, I am keeping the tip within a 1/4" or so. Have you noticed that there is not much weld spatter at all? The anti-spatter spray is used in and out of the weld nozzle and also spraying it on the metal before I begin to weld.

 

The gas shield is spread pretty wide sooooo..holding it that close(1/4") your good going in any direction. The gas shield REALLY makes for a nice clean weld(no splatter!) IF......its CLEAN-CLEAN.
With the gas adjusted right you can prolly run a fan while you weld so long as its not blowing directly on your weld.
MIG welding is really a piece-of-cake once you get everything set up right. Compared to stick welding.
Another trick.....IF you have a pretty wide gap you need to fill...get a thin sliver of metal and lay it on the gap and then tack it with the gun. Kinda build you a bridge. Weld it.........grind it down smooth.....weld a nice bead over the ground down area! Dun.....Keep practicing, you'll get it.
6sally6

 

Any updates Mike?

 

Not at the moment Mike... Buying needed tools to help with straightening my frame rails which are bent downward on the passenger side, starting from my firewall towards the front. Bought a 4 ton Porta Power to hopefully help with the task.

Also purchased a new 4 foot digital leveler to help with my welding of the front frame horns to keep them level and even on both sides.

Turns out I need the front frame horn boxing plates with dimpled holes WITHOUT the spreader bar. Mine are cut out for this. I want to install a circular nerf bar similar to yours, front and rear so I do not need a spreader bar between the frame horns.

Speaking of updates, any new on the BB?

 

You should practice a bit more on scrap pieces till you get the hang of it---save MUCH grinding. You WILL get better and here are some examples. First is in 2009 when my nephew first picked up a mig and second is in 2012. Pic #1 in 2009: a distributor pocket for a BBC in a 37 PU, Pic #2 (2012): a trans cover patch on a 40 International PU, and Pic #3 is floor repair on the rear shock area of a 57 Chev which was welded OVERHEAD with a mig. Practice does make better.

 

Cool man keep on keepin on!

I finally got the B.B. legal today! But of course it was raining when we got home so no rides darnit!

 

There's no question I will get better with practice - in truth, my practice will happen with each task that needs to be done as my chassis is coming together.

At the moment, the frame issues are stopping me dead in my tracks and need to be corrected before I continue to weld new cross members and boxing plates, etc. I need to check those first welds I did on the original cross members and see if I have good penetration on BOTH sides of the beads. If the penetration is correct, I will finally cut out the rear cross member for the coil shock mount and prepare to either make another one or possibly salvage it. Once this is completed, I can finally start the plan to hang my Winters QCR.

The front frame horns will be welded in within a week or so. I'm just a bit worried about welding in my new '32 Ford cross member on the fact that it may be too short in width. I'll cross that bridge when I get there! Thanks for your advice Coilover!

 

Other than welding my new frame horns from a '32 Ford to start working on the completion of the front rails, anxious to see if this rod shop I found can straighten the passenger side rail so I can finally start welding in some new cross members... Gonna see this shop tomorrow.

 

How bent is is? That is thin metal, have you tried hammers, dollies and the old large adjustable wrench pull? Or is it a bigger issue?

 

The passenger side frame rail, near the engine frame mount is bent downwards, stopping me dead in my tracks to begin strengthening my original chassis. When my coupe was hit on the passenger side before I purchased it, it also pushed the rail back, preventing the body to bolt back on when I had new bottom panels all around welded on at a shop on Long Island called, Gary "Chop It" Kustom Cars. Right afterwards, I took the frame out to Riverhead and had some shop pull the frame rail back to where the frame rails were even again. I also realized that my rear cross member for the shocks is not square either...

I purchased a Porta - Power, which has many uses, but realized that the drivers side frame rail needs to be secured completely so it stays square or at 90 degrees while the opposite side C channel is bent back square.

A local rod shop stated that they should be able to help, which would make me smile once again and continue working to weld in my new cross members. I will do almost ANYTHING to save my original frame. I'm stopping by tomorrow afternoon for a tour and conference with high hopes! Superior Glass Works is my next option, offering new '31 CHEVY rails that are boxed. I would make a request to have them step boxed as I originally planned for my frame, only I prefer the boxing plates to have dimpled speed holes.

 

Friend had a body shop for modern cars with all the pullers & tie downs to unfold wrechs. Seems a shop like that could fix your 32 frame. Trucks still have frames & seems easier with out a body mounted. Check around for a "real' body repair shop.

 

Dropped by this rod shop this afternoon and gave me the heads up on starting my project of repairing my bent frame. He told me 8 hours just to set up my frame on his frame straightener... Really? At $80 an hour, that's a bit too steep. He won't be able to get to my frame until a few weeks, which gives me some time to try and use my porta-power to see what I can do and search for other options.

You know, the coolest factor in owning a real steel hot rod is how special it is to have an original steel body WITH its original steel frame.

 

Mike, I went to four "Modern" shops and they looked at me like I was a freakin' alien... The shop I went to this past afternoon at least worked on some street rods and classics. Like I mentioned in my above post, this guy needs 8 hours to set my frame up for the repair. Guy's jerkin' my chain...

 

He doesn't really want to do the job, unless you're willing to pay thru the nose!

 

friend retired & sold shop. with a bare frame has to be a hell of a lot easier then 8 hour setup. Watched him do trucks with major crash damage. Check some other shops.

 

That's just what a co-worker said this afternoon when I told him what was laid out for me.

Yup, will do exactly that. Been tough so far Mike.

 

Trying to link a post that may be helpful to you.


https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/check-out-my-34-5-window.473212/#post-5214310

 

Any luck wth the frame @31chevymike ???

 

Have not tried my porta power as of yet. I figure that if I use it in the area where the engine mounts to, the front frame horn will twist upward with it. Then the frame horn won't be square or 90 degrees.

This is clearly the reason why a frame straightener will need to hold one area of the frame from moving and move only the area that is bent downward.

With this known, I'm still going to try and move the framerail and see how much the front frame horn is out of 90 degrees. Appreciate your concern Mike!



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This is where you cheat and reduce the strength of the frame where you need it to bend. That way it takes much less force. (I.e., get the big torch out and heat it to cherry red).



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