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Technical '35-'36 spindles - brake options?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by treb11, Apr 24, 2018.

  1. treb11
    Joined: Jan 21, 2006
    Posts: 3,948

    treb11
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    There doesn't seem to be much tech for putting better brakes on 35 and 36 Ford spindles. The usual f1 /f100 swap supposedly doesn't work, disc brake kits aren't listed. So what's a poor boy to look for in the junkyard?
     
  2. bct
    Joined: Apr 4, 2005
    Posts: 3,154

    bct
    Member

    Converting 35s to hydraulic is the same procedure as converting model A. Two spacers needed. One to center backing plates and the other to provide a seal surface outboard.

    36 is a one year only deal that I have no experience with
     
  3. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 23,264

    gimpyshotrods
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Buy later spindles. They are out there.
     
    Unkl Ian likes this.
  4. uncle buck
    Joined: Feb 13, 2007
    Posts: 1,876

    uncle buck
    Member

    Last edited: Apr 25, 2018

  5. jimvette59
    Joined: Apr 28, 2008
    Posts: 1,107

    jimvette59
    Member

    See my ad it has most of what you need. Look up 35 36 backing plates.
     
  6. MT makes some of the Lincoln repops with the small bolt pattern.

    F-1/F-100 backing plates can be easily fitted to '35-'36 spindles, need the centering ring to locate the plate and then either elongate or notch the bolt holes (you can weld up the original bolt holes and drill new ones if you are one of those that don't like the old ways). Hubs fit with the proper seal and bearings, no need for the bearing spacer after '34.

    Same goes for '39-'48 Lockheed brakes.

    Not too tough to modify a '39-'48 flat plate disc brake kit to work either.

    Bolt the plate on with the centering ring and three 10-32 machine screws, punch the other hole out with a 7/16" drill, install a 7/16"x 3/4" bolt and nut, repeat three more times, and then do the same on the other side.

    But, if you are going thru the front end, king pins, tie rod ends, etc; it would be a good time to switch to '37 up spindles, for the ease of everything.

    You can see the hole misalignment in the picture of an F-1 together with an early spindle.

    36 f1 1 (Medium).jpeg 36 f1 2 (Medium).jpeg 36 f1 3 (Medium).jpeg
     
  7. manyolcars
    Joined: Mar 30, 2001
    Posts: 9,176

    manyolcars

    MT Products are not self adjusting so get the self adjusters
     
  8. treb11
    Joined: Jan 21, 2006
    Posts: 3,948

    treb11
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    scrap metal 48 likes this.
  9. Don't think a poor boy is going find MT/Boling Bros stuff in a junkyard.;)
     
  10. I have both products on my 36, got brakes!
     
  11. krylon32
    Joined: Jan 29, 2006
    Posts: 9,397

    krylon32
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Nebraska
    1. Central Nebraska H.A.M.B.

    I've done a couple customer chassis with 35/36 spindles and MT Brakes, Hubs and Drums along with the Early V8 Garage kingpin kit. Works Great. Also fits the 32/34 spindles the same way. Got that combo on my 32 Pu with MT's on the back also, stops like a new car.
     
  12. Bruce Lancaster
    Joined: Oct 9, 2001
    Posts: 21,681

    Bruce Lancaster
    Member Emeritus

    "36 is a one year only deal that I have no experience with"
    1935 and 1936 are different in various ways but look the same. For brake swappers:
    1935 has LONG spindle shaft like 1928-34, and so requires the little spacer to get the bearings right for late hubs and drums. The late ('36-48) spindles have a slightly shorter spindle shaft with the closer bearing spacing. '36 should take a late drum without the spacer, but requires the same mods as '28-35 to take late backing plates.
     
  13. treb11
    Joined: Jan 21, 2006
    Posts: 3,948

    treb11
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    A very good automobile recycling center then. :p
     
  14. You may be onto something, my kid has "recycled" hot rod parts he picked up from a local a street rod shop.
     

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