Customs finishing off my 38 chevee project

mike you could try the blowtorch route with a small basic blowtorch with screw on bottle.heat the pivots up and lash on the penetrating oil be better off with someone helping you for an hour or two.do that a couple of times you want to hit the punch to drift the pin by hitting it a sharp tap to shock it once it moves the tiniest bit you are away.best of luck.if I was living a bit closer id hit the road and get the job done for you

 

I had the hood ready for over a week.everything etch primed got the go ahead from the painter.headed in after dinner time. rubbed every inside surface down with coarse scotch brite padand wiped down with panel wipe.parted the hood hinge and painted that satin black.removed the hood handles so they could get a proper coat of paint,coated all the inside surfaces of the hoodsatin black.plan is to high build primer it tomorrow and rub it down,finish painting on Friday itl be great to have it finished at last

 

ive spent a lot of time on the brake pedal.modifying it and trying to optimise the mounting position .didn't want to drill multiple holes in the firewall trying to get the position right.the cab is quite short.i moved the trottle pedal to the right a bit .looking for a comfortable position.,think ive found it.
I marked the centre for the brake cable fitting and drilled it,1/8 hole first then opened it up.i ended up with the cable wanting to cut into the fitting at WOT.even though the fitting looked to be in the correct place.i elongated the hole downwards and used a penny washer either side of the firewallto keep it in situ.could have been a combination of lokar pedal and BG carb that caused this .anyway its sorted now.
on the firewall side theres a short run of cable to the carb.i used a jegs universal cable.i don't think id buy another.there was ho nylon liner to the cable.if I was to make another cable id start out with a motorcycle cable there is usually a 90 degree radius fitting off the twist throttle normally lined and the inner cable is usually high quality flexible stainless steel.the grub screw on the carb end of the jegs fitting was poor qualitythe allen head was punched off centre.i will scource another here.shouldnt have to,this poor quality control on a critical component really pisses me off

 

cable

 

hood hood sides and fenders are allpainted now at last .

 

WTH is a penny washer?

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in the good old pre decimal days pennys wereabout 1 1/8 diameter and very thin..im my case the washer was the same diameter as an old penny with a 8mm hole in the centre

 

Fender washer?

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yeah here they are called penny washers as wellold irish penny

 

never to be confused with the young Irish washer, Penny O'shay.

 

EXACTLY

 

this week I started on the brakes in earnest.i had made a bracket to mount the proportioning valve and brake t on.i came across a Harley brake light switch (thanks tony).nice piece its stainless and doubles as a banjo bolt.the bracket kept evolving until it got to the current format.kept drilling it/lightening it.theres not much of it left now.one finalcoat of paint tomorrow and ill be mounting it for good.started on the first brake hose.the next one will be quicker to assemble ive everything on standby.
when finished this will clear the glove box and the adjusting knob will be accessable below it.JEGS tech advised its ok to mount the P.V. upside down.

 

mick at ducafe shortened some thru frame fittings I had and tapped them m10 x1 for me so I could use a banjo bolt at one end.i made up some brake lines and drilled the a posts so I could run the lines up through there.i made some stainless brackets to hold the hose with clamps I got at jegs.if I can terminate them inside the firewall tomorrow that will be the front lines done.where do the hours go?.

 

Hopefully you will be on the road again soon!

 

I cant wait to get on the road again,leakie

 

Why do I hear “Irish Washerwoman “ in my head all of a sudden.


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bracket by owner/ducafe to hold brake fitting.fitting required 3mm bracket to make the clip work,but made it in 2mm steel and used a 1mm thick washer in s/s around the fitting to protect the paint stainless clip is from TOTALLY STAINLESS

 

i acquired the fitting I was short and ordered some more Goodrich should have it tomorrow.

 

goodridge arrived at lunch time

 

finished the last brake line today.now I just have to bleed the bleeding system..id like to bench bleed the m/cylinder on the car.ill have to get something made up and buy some hose and some more dot4 fluid tomorrow.i thought id have trouble filling up the resevoirbut not so.there was more than enough room to top up.using a flat screwdriver I opened up a I/4 inch long opening in the sealing foil and a pinhole on the other side on the top of the 1/2 litre bottle..made it easy to control the flow of brake fluid.
I had some foil heat insulation.i ran the front lines through this where they were close to the headers and kept them secured with heat shrink.glove box will still fit with the adjusting knob sticking down below it.

 

in the end I didn't get to use the brake fitting,ran goodridge the whole length.

 

All that work for nothing, maybe you can mount it on the wall so you can admire your work.

 

thanks leakie that's the way ,nothing ventured nothing gained.ill put it on my model A when I get it

 

.thought id have trouble filling the reservoir but not so. carefully broke the seal on the bottle punched a slot with a screwdriver and a pinhole to allow air in.didnt spill any fluid filling it up . good job!.

 

Subscribed,,,,,,,,,,,nice work.

 

mick at DUCAFE machined a m/cylinder bleed kit I can use with the m/cylinder in situ.just add clear hose.machined a new banjo for a bleed nipple and a spacer to take the place of the banjo fitting.its effectively a straight through bolt with a nipple to attach the hose to ill be bleeding the m/c tomorrow.also got two sleeves to slide down the steering shaft to cover up the splines that are exposed.be painting the shaft and sleeves satin black ,a dot of silicone will hold them in place

 

was showing splines when it was connected..Mick at ducafe turned some alloy covers for me.not fitted and painted yet,but you get the drift a little dab of mastic will hold them in place

 

bleeding the m/c in the car went well with the fittings we machined.front bled right up,the rear side put up a fight but eventually came good.have fluid at the 4 corners now its time to get some help.

 

HELP ARRIVED .my friend Ciaran came to the rescue.it took a few hours, a leak here a small weap there and a loose fitting tightened and we have a pedal.ended up using about 1 litre of fluid to do the job start to finish.need some fresh copper washers to finish.important job scratched off the list.

 

if I was doing the job over, older and wiser id use a mechanical brake switch and used a banjo bolt with a bleed screw init or turned the hydraulic brake switch down.less potential to trap air at the t ees.