Hello I have a 41 ford I converted to 12 volt I have stock gauges and a I.V.R. motor is a 59a flathead 8.Could someone tell me what to use for a temp sending unit and part no. thank you
Use the stock sending unit and run the gauge with a runtz 12 volt to 6 volt voltage reducer. Do the same thing with the oil pressure gauge if electric and the gas gauge.
You need to use the stock sender. Original senders are very scarce. You can buy an aftermarket sender from Macs, Carpenter or Drake but they do not work the same and you may not get the correct reading. Do a search here and the Fordbarn and educate yourself on how the gauges work.
Thanks. I would think a CVR would be more appropriate. Constant Voltage Reducer. No need to mess with the current when changing to 12V.
Here's a link to a good write-up on Ford gauges by one of the guys on the "Ford Barn" : https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=243262&highlight=Tubman.
One of several sources is Chris and Holly at Shoebox Central here in Oklahoma City. They helped me with all the details on our 49 Ford we converted to 12 volt. They got all the stuff.....................................
If you have a voltmeter and not an amp meter you can put a resistor in that feed and the volt meter should read correctly. It will not read the cvr voltage. By the way ivr is integrated voltage regulator.
IVR is instrument voltage regulator. It is somewhat misnamed, as it is a mechanical switch, very similar to the old mechanical flashers. It has a 50/50 duty cycle, which reduces the input voltage by half, resulting in 6 volts.
All Ford dash gauges were 6 volt until late 80s . Go to Napa and get yourself a dash gauge voltage limiter from a 66 pickup it will fix you up fat . I did this on many earlier Fords converted to 12 volt , never had one issue . Earlier Fords were positive ground , 56 the world changed with 12 negative ground . Your gauge may read in reverse it you do not switch wiring to negative ground system .
Please forgive my lack of knowledge concerning 12 volt wiring systems. I am in the process of re-wiring my 1958 Chevy Delray. I am only using the stock fuel gauge and oil pressure light that came with the car. The wiring out of the fuse box to the gauge has a constant 12 volts. I know this has to be reduced to about 8 volts to the fuel gauge so that it can further reduce the voltage through its own resistor. I bought a 1.5 ohm 10 watt resistor to put inline which should drop the 12 volt to about 8 volts. When I hook my meter up to the end of the resistor with 12 volts coming in I still have 12 coming out. What am I missing? How can I drop the voltage down so it doesn’t peg my fuel gauge? 12 volts going to my gas tank is probably not good . I tried a stock ballast resistor also, same thing. I hooked the wire from the fuse box directly to the input side of the gauge and jumped it to my oil pressure light. The oil pressure sending unit provides the ground for the light. The only other connection is the opposite side of the fuel gauge through its own resistor, which should be around 3 volts going back to the fuel sending unit. Hope this makes sense.
So when I look at a 1958 chev wiring diagram it shows 12 volts direct to fuel guage, then one wire from guage to fuel tank sender. Fuel tank sender is grounded at tank. There is no voltage reduction device in the original circuit. To drop 4 volts across your 1.5 ohm resistor (the 8 volts you are looking for) would require a current flow of about 2.7 amps. Your tank sender at 30 ohms or so will not allow that much current, nor do you want it to. Are you attempting to duplicate a stock system? Some more detail may help in solving your problem.
For those asking IVR`s is short hand for Instrument Voltage Regulator. That is a term for the '60s and up for regulator on the back of the gauges with printed circuit boards that pulses the voltage at 6 volts. If he is using the term correctly then he has a new IVR which is a pulsing regulator that is set at 6 volts which I honestly do not believe will work with what he is wanting to do as I don't believe the old gauges can handle a pulsing on off signal. Needle if it is a fast enough response could vibrate and bounce around with the pulsing.