Technical Need manual transmission safety switch ideas

I have done some searches, but really haven't found a lot of specific information on installing a neutral safety switch for a MANUAL transmissions. Lots of info on automatics, but that doesn't help much.

The car is a 1946 Studebaker, Muncie four speed, with clutch and brake pedals that go through the toe board. The clutch is hydraulic. Would like to hear from any of you who have hooked up a neutral safety switch of some sort for manual transmissions. Details about where you got the part(s) and any other tips would be much appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

 

Not exactly a neutral safety switch but with a hydraulic clutch how about wiring in a hydraulic brake light switch into the ignition so the starting circuit is broken unless clutch is pushed in.

 

I've only seen a safety switch on the clutch of a manual trans. I've had several Ford Rangers with 5spds that the clutch has to be against the floor for them to start. You might look at a wiring schematic for say a 98 Ranger to see how one is wired.

 

^^^^ This. All the new car cars with manual trans use a switch on the clutch pedal....

 

At first I thought, Why? I guess new cars have features we get used to. Besides the clutch, new cars with autos you have to have your foot on the brake, that would be easy to wire in the brake light circuit. Or you could put it on the emergency brake. I just realized my John Deere has a neutral switch on the stick trans, but is probably internal. If you have a Hurst shifter you would almost have to put a switch on each lever.

 

A mechanical brake light switch for an old Chevy (like a 50s truck) might work on the clutch pedal, too. Those had the pedal through the floor, and the switch mounted on the bottom of the angled toe board.



(I guess this stuff is useful in case "new" drivers have to drive the thing. Old guys, it's pretty natural to remember to push the clutch or put it in neutral before starting)

 

This^^^^^

I don't see the need.

 

New Guys crack me up! I think seat belt Buzzers are necessary also,,, NOT!
The Wizzard

 

The clutch switch is used by the factory . Easy enough to rig up with a switch . A neutral safety switch would require some engineering by you. Some sort of centering switch on your shifter wired through your ign switch.

 

I've had occasion to use the starter while the car was in gear. I once had to move my BMW 2002 a matter of six blocks or so after having lost the clutch. Jerky start in first gear until the engine started, then a deft clutchless snick into second, then a matter of making sure I didn't need to stop anywhere until I got to where I was going.

 

Without engineering something exotic that's over engineered, I think you need a single switch.
The only place I see a single switch working is on the transmission case activated by one of the shift levers. The shifter just has too much play in neutral....."multipositional".....
One of the shift-levers is in a pretty much fixed position in neutral..
Now finding a switch that's suitable and a suitable mounting point....that's the hard part.

 

I've got a 355/TH350 S-10 pickup that used to be a manual. I left the clutch pedal and switch in place. Still have to push it to start truck. kinda weird, but...hey.

 

Do what squrriel said. It's easy and works. Neutral safety on early powerglide 50-54 used a modified form of this switch. So did the backup lights.

 

id agree with the mechanical switch over the hydraulic . more reliable

 

If you do it, also install an over ride switch. I've cranked my way out of at least one intersection on the starter after stalling out. Can't do that with your foot pressing the clutch.
-Dave

 

I've had customers with clutch problems blocks from the shop, or 'stalled' in parking lots...
Many's the time I started one up in 1st gear, upshifted, and drove it back to the shop with 'no clutch'.
Two different times with Harley Davidsons that weren't mine, started them up, had 2 guys push me until I 'dropped it in gear', rode away praying for green lights all the way back...LOL
If you know and understand the drive train's function, it's all relative. (tow truck bill $150 or drive it with one foot)
A 'footnote' here: My O.T. '66 VW has a 'stiff' pressure plate, so I HATE cranking it cold with the clutch disengaged. No. 1 main bearing is the thrust, and cold cranking from 'dead' to initial startup raises Cain with that .200" X 6.25" bearing surface. I start in in neutral, clutch out. So, there may be controversy...

I recall being surprised by a then new G.M. that had to be disengaged to crank the starter. Yep, I reasoned that it was a precaution for 'newby stickshift pilots'.

 

Had a couple old timers tell me that stepping on the clutch at start up will wear out the thrust bearing. All my pre safety cars I start in neutral.
-Dave

 

Using the clutch while driving will also wear out the thrust bearing. It's generally not a problem, because the rings wear out before the thrust bearing wears out. Unless something is wrong with the engine, or the clutch, or something.

 

On my 53 Studebaker the starter switch was under the clutch pedal, not sure if that was a later innovation from your Studebaker but I think it would be easier to add a switch on the clutch than trying to figure out something on your shifter.

 

I'm still trying to figure out how to get rid of the NSS on my OT F150. I never liked them on manuals.

 

Worst of all systems....have to push 'fake' clutch pedal to start engine, which disengages nothing, and the auto trans can still be in any gear position on startup......

Ray

 

I installed this proximity switch on my 40 ford. The clutch pedal has to be in the proximity of the switch for the starter to engage. Works great.The switch came from McMaster Carr.

 

Nothing like traditional hot rods, customs and nuetral safety switches .. ?

Sent from my SM-J727T1 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

The simpler the better, less stuff to go wrong. Why bother.
Before all this NSS stuff, I was always in the habit of jiggling the shifter before starting to make sure it was in neutral. I still do it.

 

I once owned a 74 sedan DeVille that wouldn't start until you were buckled up.... Yeah, it pissed me off at times... But I got used to it...

 

They fixed it for you: Ford no longer offers a manual transmission F150.

Problem solved!

 

they got rid of that one real quick, the dealer would defeat it for you if you asked

 

IIRC, when Detroit started installing these switches on the clutch one of the OEMs had issues with excessive thrust bearing wear (Olds? Can't remember now...). To be honest, my DD has this 'feature' and if there was a way to disconnect it I would, but it's interlocked with the computer somehow. I'm with Ned Ludd, I've had occasion to use the starter while in gear with clutch/linkage failures more than once, it got me home.

They continually try to make driving idiot-proof, the easiest solution is don't let an idiot drive your car....

 

They can't sell cars if they don't let idiots drive them.

 

Agreed, but I'd like to think the denizens here are smarter than that... LOL