'54 F100, swapped the stock front drums for disc conversion kit from Speedway (11" '76-'81 Dodge Aspen brake rotors and GM single piston iron calipers (7/16"-20 inlets) from a '70-'77 Camaro). Kept the original drums in the rear. Engine is 239 Y-block. When converting the master cylinder over, do I need a brake power booster or is a new dual chamber with proportioning valve sufficient? I would like to keep the master cylinder mounted where it it (under the floorboards) Thanks for any advice.
My son did this on his '55 F100, his M/C is still under the floor, original pedals. He used a Maverick dual master cyl. with the proportioning valve. Excellent, in fit and performance... His info came from the disc brake company (three initials, can't remember them) they have all the info on line. Biggest thing was the price savings he gets, using on line "ROCK AUTO". I've used them for various things, especially engine gaskets and some 'hard parts' for my 406 F.E.
there are power boosters that will mount under floor - look at performanceonline.com, and others - make sure that motor has proper vacuum rating to use power booster
depends how strong your legs are. I don't have any problem with manual disc brakes, but some folks do. The dual master cylinder isn't really necessary, but most folks add one, just because. Make sure you pay attention to the bore size of the MC if you change it, 1" bore will make it easier to operate the brakes. If you do add a dual cylinder, also make sure the system will make pressure while you have a bleeder open on one side. Otherwise, adding the dual was a complete waste of effort.
CPP? ABS? Both do retro fit brake upgrades. Sure there's others, but those are 3 letter versions that I can recall. http://www.abspowerbrake.com/ http://www.classicperform.com/ In my limited experience if you're going to have a booster a 7" single is pretty much like not having one! 8" dual gives good assistance. Chris
i did 4 wheel disk on my f100..no booster works fine....you can get a master with electric booster built in that makes a nice system.....mite be the way to go if you are not wanting to push hard on the brakes....
My ‘65 Country Seadan has front disc and stock rear drums, with a non-power dual master cylinder. Car stops just fine. Bones
Booster under floor,disc in front use 2lb to front if you keep drums in back use adjustable proportion to rear and a 10lb to rear. If calipers are higher than master they will bleed back to master. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Probably SSBC, that is 4 letters, but see their website: http://ssbrakes.com/c-624171-vehicle-specific-products.html