Vega Steering box install question

OK I know its not a traditional set up but thats what we are using for this project. Its going on a stock 31 A boxed frame. I was curious about mounting location, and what are rules/hints/tips to use for running such box. I know that I need to keep the drag link parrallel to the ground. But thats about as far as it goes for my knowledge of such installation. I would love to see some pic's, and insight on how you guys did yours. Thanks In Advance, Ryan

 

I'll send my old man your way at Cavalcade... We put one in that new coupe were building...He's hooked on the damn things now. LOL...



TH

 

Mount the box to the triangular mounting plate, then clamp it to the frame rail with the front suspension fully assembled and at ride height as it will sit with the normal curb weight. Center the pitman arm in the box rotation and attach the drag link or a string that fills that role. Position the box so that the drag link is level and parallel to the tie rod. Look at it from above, the front and the side. Tack weld the mounting plate, then remove the box for final welding. If you don't use the triangular mounting plate, just follow the same procedure to position the box and locate the points for the fasteners. Ordinarily, the pitman would be level, though it isn't the end of the world if you point it down slightly. It will just cause the drag link to rise at the far ends of the steering travel. Having the drag link level and parallel to the tie rod as you go down the road is the main point to avoid bump steer.

 

Killer thank's guys. I hope to have this mounted by the Cavalcade Tyler, So when you guys get there you can point out everything I did wrong....lol Thanks Again, Ryan

 

Vega box in a 51 Chevy truck frame. Hope this helps.

 

Here are a couple of pics of a 26 T racer I am working on. The Vega mounting plate is welded to the frame at what, for the T, is the appropriate location.

Couple of things I learned; one is, a local racer told me that not only does the drag link need to be parallel to the ground but it also improves things if it is as close as possible parallel with the front end. To accomplish this I mounted as far forward as the Pitman arm would allow. This is tight in the T because it is so narrow so engine clearance is a squeaker. You may have more room in the A.

Hope this helps. The basic rules should be the same no matter the chassis. And you will like it!. I have driven the chassis about 10 miles (sitting on a wooden crate) and the handling is wonderful. I purposely drove on gravel roads with potholes to see what bump-steer is all about; could not break it lose.

I appreciate the desire for authenticity but when it comes to steering, brakes and lighting I consider aesthetics secondary to staying alive to drive the thing.

 

Great info about the geometry required. My 29 Roadster uses a 29 boxed frame. I used a vega box with good results and recently upgraded to a "Flaming River" Vega style box.
This was a major upgrade and well worth the cost. My original Vega box was worn out and needed to be replaced. Turns easier and handles better. I am very happy with the Vega style box.

 

It helps to have the engine also setting where you want it, the steering column where you want it, not mounted solid but where they may be shifted a bit to maybe give you the room to mount everything. I have two mounted in av8's and to gain a little extra room between the cylinder head and steering shaft I cut the mounting plate (3/8") that welds to the frame in a horseshoe type configuration, now the bulge on the box will fit in the horseshoe center and the box will now bolt to the plate without using spacers. The input side of the box may have to be tilted up just a little to keep the steering universal joints from binding and if needed the steering arm can be tweaked some to level it with the drag link. Also I would pay the little extra and get a forged pitmon arm. A shorter pitmon arm gives you extra room also (moves the box forward when aligning). Take your time and check everything before welding anything in. Probably confused you more than helped, if so, sorry. Looked but no pictures either.


Vergil

 

Guys thank you so much for all the tips.. I already have the motor mocked in I am hoping to get everything mocked so I can get my drag link ordered/made, then I can fine tune everything before final welding... Thanks Ryan

 

I bought my Vega mount from gearheadworld on he auction site. It came with mounting measurements and instructions. It's the horseshoe type and mounts the box closer to the frame. It works perfect on the AV8 I'm building. It was around $50. I needed he extra room between the column and box.

 

Don't mean to hi-jack your thread here irs30,... But,

Any of you guys use the Chassis Engineering mount ?, Any pictures of it installed ? The one with the open center to get it closer to the frame rail.

I made one from the pictures and bolt pattern from a Vega box,.. Just want to see it installed.

 

Thats clever, Im interested too

 

Thats the exact mount that I am using. Will try and get pictures.

 

On the list of "to do's".....subscribed.

 

start by measuring back fromt your radiator mount holelc back to the cl of the vega mount cl 10 1/2" . that is a good start. actualy that is good but you can fin tune it fwd or bk to be totaly parallel to the tie rod with the tires aligned and pionting streight fwd. center the box pitman arm streigt fwd and in the center of the steering arc. now i normanly just mount he top box hole level to the top of the frame. this changes on the height of the car but that is in extreme up or down ride hights. you will most likely need to heat and bend of buy a streight vega arm. i will tell you that a vega steers very good but to be honest the vega ratio could be alittle better. the longer aftermarket arm would be better . my 2 cents after building 60+ chassis

 

Well, I just took some quick pictures of my install.

 

Thanks,... I tacked the bracket into the chassis, But the car has a 392 Hemi in it, so the engine mount and steering box want to occupy the same area,.. it's tight,.. but I got it in a spot where everything works,.. But was concerned about how low it looked in the frame.

I made mine out of 3/8" plate, with 3/8" gussets,.. it's no lower than yours. in fact,.. just a little higher. First time I used this kind of mount.

 

YIKES! IT MOVES!
I attached my vega box to a boxed 32 frame using a store bought (Speedway) mounting plate. Welded it all up but after it was all said and done, the box had a very slight movement when ya cranked on the steering! Standing beside the box, with the full weight of the car on the tires and sawing the steering wheel ya could see the box move ever so slightly. Even with all the bolts nice and tight! When I do this again I'm thinking about some gussets/supports inside the frame between the boxing plate and the frame. Something ya couldn't see when completed but would stiffen up the area....

 

My brother and I are in the middle of this too. Last weekend we bolted in the new dropped axle w/ the pitman arm to locate my vega box. Drats...the motor mount in my car is the tube type and is right where the box needs to be. I had already bought the chassis eng. box mount so I ordered up their motor mounts as well. They should be here early next week. I hoping the motor stays in same place !!!

 

It looks like you guys already have it figured out, but I'll post the instructions anyways

 

One neat thing about the Vega boxes is they will reverse just like a corvair if needed.

 

Did you guys have your engine in place before you mounted the box up?

 

I didn’t. Only because I had seen soooo many done exactly like mine, I knew it would fit. Although I have a Chevy 348 and things did get a bit tight.

 

When you get to hooking up the steering shaft, check out the U-Joints from a Ford Festiva. Perfect fit on an original Vega box, 5/8-36 spline with pinch bolts . U- Joints with vibration damper cost me $12.00 cdn at pick & pull

 

Which generation of Festiva, or apox year? Great tip.

 

The remains of the car was marked 89, wasn't much left of it. The boxy first generation, I believe they were built by Mazda. It was on a manual Rack & Pinion steering, but not sure if power steering is the same or if power was available.