Anyone know the best place to have plastic re-chrome plated? Some 60s cars we have need especially instrument gauge cluster and other interior plastic parts plated. I found a good place a few years ago but unfortunately owner was retiring. Another place I contacted seemed good but too expensive. Thanks. Sent from my SM-S320VL using Tapatalk... Gary from Virginia
hey a few questions for you guys. never given the idea of chroming plastic much thought. Whats it like? how long will it last compared to say normal chrome of metal? Suitable for outside trim like badges as well as interior? Just thinking of all the custom interior stuff I could design up in Solidworks and 3D print off then get plated. or that one badge I have been trying to track down for my Buick I could just 3D print and chrome until i get a good metal option. or is it crap? that why we dont see people 3D scanning or designing stuff and printing it off on ebay?
just like a chrome tree in a plastic model kit AMT, Revell though the Chrome tech stuff is awesome looking should last like factory chromed plastic emblems 10 20 yrs depending on exposer
. Chrome plate on plastic is chrome plate, very common in the 70’s , it’s expensive because of the work to get the plastic to accept the chrome. Like chrome it shows any and all defects so I dunno how you’ll go with 3D printing
The dash trim of the '60s/early 70s wasn't chromed; it was aluminized using vaporized aluminum. Using the same process the model car manufacturers use for the 'chrome' trim in the kits (just a bit heavier-duty version), it would go bad with just age if it didn't wear off first. Actual chrome on plastic didn't show up a lot until the mid-late '70s, and then almost always on exterior parts. Both methods have their limits. The aluminized parts were protected with a clear finish (usually lacquer) that would fail and the fragile aluminum would either dull out or wear off. If you have your parts redone, use the best quality clear over it you can. The actual chrome-on-plastic looks identical to the chromed metal parts because it was basically the same process, except they started with a 'vaporized' copper layer so the plastic would accept plating. But because of the different expansion rates of the materials, the plating is known to split/separate from the plastic. Ford used this method on their mid-late '60s chrome column shift knobs, which while it wore great, it was common to find these with the plating 'split' (I cut myself on one) from the plastic expanding. They eventually improved the method, but it required special plastics and generally only showed up on expensive cars. If the plating fails, you also can't restore the part; you'll need a replacement.
Steve; It sounds like you may have hands on knowledge about this stuff. Do you know of anyone here in the North West that actually does it? I kind of don't want to send parts to the East Coast if I don't have to. I have some Dash parts for my 57 Ford that need to be redone while it's in pieces. The Wizzard
Seconded. Nice guy, reasonable turn around time, fair price, and good work. Highly recommended. If you’ll forgive the non automotive content, I had him do some unobtanium pieces for my other hobby: http://www.zaccaria-pinball.com/projects/bezel/index.html It’s hard to get a good picture of shiny, but you will see every flaw in the finished part. Go over it and make it perfect, then let it sit for a couple of days and go over it again. Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Real chrome on metal is a hard surface, stands up to exterior abuse on cars well. Chrome on plastic is vaporized aluminum, only a few microns thick, and wears off easily. It is top coated with clear coat to protect it. Interior or exterior, the clear is the only defense it has, but modern clear coats are pretty tough. Most of the “chrome” on my wife’s car is plastic. You don’t see people scanning and printing parts because it’s a lot of work to get a part done and ready for plating. Could you? Sure. If you’re looking for unobtanium parts, it may be your best bet. Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
There is Little Motor Car in Reading Pa that has been around a long time, owned and operated by Dale Horner. From what I've seen, his work is good.
I had the dash bezel on my 67 Fairlane "rechromed" at least 20 years ago at a Mustang restoration place in Dallas. I think it was called Mikes, but may be wrong. It came back looking like a new part. It still looks new. I keep the car garaged always and under a car cover so if you protect it, it should last as long as when the factory did it provided you have a quality shop do it for you. They used the vaporized aluminum method.
If you're a do it yourselfer, there's some kits for doing the spray. Basically, a black base, followed by 'chrom' coat and clear. I used to use Alclad for model cars, but there's some commercial automotive paint systems that would work great for interior gauge panels, etc.
There isn't anyone local. When I owned my '64 Comet I had the plastic instrument bezel re-done and I shipped it back east somewhere. Cost was around $150, but all I ordered was the bare aluminizing. I should have had the guy do the full deal (aluminizing, clear coat, and detail painting) as it was a PITA to do at home and I didn't get as good results. A friend had his Falcon dash plastic fully redone and it came back beautiful but cost around $600.... This was a number of years ago, it's probably more now. There's a couple of platers back east who now do actual plating on non-metal materials, but it's even more $$$, and the plating thickness is enough to mess up fit on some parts. All the aftermarket examples I've seen are bumpers, and those were fiberglass, not plastic. Jaguar used this method mid-'70s into the early '90s for the plastic grills, headlight doors, and taillight housings on the XJS and failed plating on the grills/doors is common. GM was doing this in the early '60s on some of their concept cars for trim, but it never appeared on a production car.
Other than the big ones that do mass production for industry there's just not many people doing this. For many years Bob Meals in Florida was doing it, was called Finishing Touches but he has passed. I've always heard it called vacuum metalizing. Here is a quick Google search. https://www.google.com/search?q=vac...0l3.18221j0j8&sourceid=chrome-mobile&ie=UTF-8
Thanks DDDenny; Lot's of good info there. Looks like the industry is set up for large volume not so much small personal pieces. Maybe I should just send off my 4 little parts and hope they all make it back home. The Wizzard
I'm sure we all wished we could go back in time. There was a guy, can't remember name, who was very good and reasonable I called years ago, but he was retiring. He did have some Rambler parts left that people never picked up so I bought them. I tried the chrome painting but it's not the same. Thanks so very much for all the places and advice. I'll call them. Those small details are really what makes a restored car super nice. Sent from my SM-S320VL using Tapatalk... Gary from Virginia
I was at the latest Maker Faire and met some great guys here in Wisconsin that are 3D printing in brass, bronze, stainless and chrome. They powder the metal and mix it with the plastic. It is durable light and can be buffed for a shine. Set up cost is about $175 for an F100 side plate. $25 per after that. This tech is moving so fast that these guys were selling the printer to make more money off of the raw materials. Sent from my LG-H830 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
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