Technical ***May 2018 Banger Meet - May Your Build Go Smoothly***

Do the easy stuff before going to spend. The video appears to show 'steam' smoke. Therefore, pull plugs directly after running engine, as you did. One or more of the plugs will show moisture...if you have a head gasket leak OR water casting problem. If that is the case, you will have to start an exam to determine source of water in cyls. If you are lucky, will find head gasket leak problem. Good luck

 

Check your fuel.
It will turn to varnish
Love this long distance troubleshooting

 

What is in? Model A? Stock tank?
Gravity worked for me. Get the larger fittings for a 3/8" fuel line

 

It's a 32 model b Tudor, with the stock tank in the rear. Needs some sort of pump.

 

Hey, gents! A little continuation on our discussion about my newfound B block.

Chatting offline with @jim1932 about some B parts, I mentioned that I might be in the market for an AA bellhousing. He mentions he has a BB unit but doesn't know if it accomplishes the same thing as an AA on an A block. Will a BB housing (provided I have a B oil pan to go with it) allow better fitment of a T5 to a B block? Or is it better to modify an A flywheel housing to fit a B block and use the AA bellhousing with a modified B oil pan?

 

Jim, I am using the 12Volt version of the one in the attached link with 2 x stromberg 97s.
https://www.macsautoparts.com/ford_...ump-carter-brand-6-volt-2-4-lbs-pressure.html

 

@waxhead - you selling your ccpu - it looks like a great deal for someone who wants a touring car. Good luck with the sale

 

I have had better luck with a rebuilt B fuel pump than an after market electric.

 

So 1,2,4 plugs look a little wet. Could be that I’m running rich though.
Compression test was 142,142,145,151
Pretty high right?
It does have a aluminum Lion head, I believe 6.5 compression.
Any suggestions on what next?

093CD767-9251-437D-A9E1-CAF1EC2F9D82 by walls posted May 5, 2018 at 11:00 AM

 

When you say....'looks a little wet', with what ?
I'm not talking gas mixture at all. That can be dealt with tuning.
Water on plug will be very evident, as shown by 'droplets' on plug. ANY water and you have a problem, especially after warmed up engine.
Your compression test results are great and show that you pretty much have a high CR head and that 'things' (rings/valves) are doing their job ! Integrity of combustion chambers apparently very good. Leak down test will show if compression is leaked back thru any head gasket leak. Look for bubbles in radiator water during this test IF leaking compression quickly.
At this point, I'd suspect head gasket problem. What type head gasket, and sealant, were both surfaces FLAT, what was your torqueing method/sequence used, how head held down, i.e.- bolts, studs nuts, how long was this gasket on, was it new/used when put on ????????

 

Can’t tell but doesn’t look like water on the plugs, looks like gas.
Is there another method of testing, I don’t own a leak down setup.

Going to try to ask the old owner about the gasket/sealant etc..
Thanks

 

I missed if this is an A or a B block.
If it is a B block and an A head you need to plug the steam holes in the block. The piston will actually draw coolant into the cylinder past the gasket though when this happens it usually foggs out the tailpipe constantly. It will also run coolant into the cylinder that is leaking while the engine isn't running.
For a 'leak down' set up. Take an old spark plug and break out the porcelain. Braze in a threaded nipple that you can screw your air hose fitting into. Screw the assembly into the spark plug hole on the cylinder you are going to test after placing the piston on top of the compression stroke. Air the cylinder up slowly and listen for where the air is going.
I'm thinking you are getting oil past the guides personally. Change the oil and go for a drive.

 

One thing that you can depend on (a good thing) about these old A/B flatheads, and that is that they did not have any oil up top to be going DOWN and getting into a number of other things like the OHV setups. A guy might find that he has black oily spark plugs, but that can easily be reasoned to bad rings and that's about the only reason !

 

Yeah might be. It sounds like someone in NSW is pretty interested. If the CCPU goes, it will be a sad day , but looking for another project, and don't have any room for another car.

 

Did you end up buying that roadster we spoke of some time ago?

 

Chances are that if the plugs look "wet" they are not firing.
Want easy, replace the plugs with new and run the motor. Then do some investigation.
Make sure each cylinder is firing, if a sissy, use a dropper and a couple drops of water on each ex housing near the head.
Leak down, compression testing requires everything to be working somewhat to get reasonable results.

Short story, I was offered an old 8N tractor if I could get it running and drive off the property. I was told it had no compression, burnt valves and at least one hole with broken rings. I was able to get it to run on one hole and drove slowly off the property. Once home, replaced the sparkplugs, changed the oil and made a new gasket for carb.
Compression test shows within 7% and runs like a top. I use it all the time in the pasture.

J

 

I use Champion L82YC

 

thanks Tuumer

 

This showed up late yesterday afternoon

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27 lbs

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that is awesome!! Are you planning on going to the Dirt drags in a couple of weeks?

 

John, that is the plan. Dirt drags getting there on the 31st. I applied with the '29 Roadster but haven't heard back but I'm going anyway....and you?

 

G'day Banger buddies,
Mate needs some advice if you will. He pulled his rebuilt motor out after 12 months to chase a water leak at rear of motor. Turns out he found some cracks in block that he chased to good metal. Ended up with these two holes. He wants to save motor if possible, so looking for info on how best to repair these holes. Most welder guys want to heat block but may damage Babbitt. Some want to braze on cast plate but won't guarantee will seal. Others say epoxy anything onto it.
Any thoughts on what does work from experience. Happy to listen to all sensible options.

 

It looks like someone got carried away there.
I have silver brazed the areas up but not with metal missing like that, using an oxy/acetylene touch and 45% silver.
Use Harris Stay Silv flux
Do you have the pieces that came out?
If not I'd get a donor block and cut out some patches that match the openings
It takes patience such as not to rush the process

 

Yes! We will be in Thursday night. We are getting excited.


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If you have the pieces that fill the now gaping wounds, there is always lock stitch.

http://www.locknstitch.com/engines-casting-repair-industry.html


.

 

Midnight Rider,

At this point, the cost of the repair could honestly outweigh the cost of prepping another block- is there something about your current block that is making you want to keep it, besides the fact that it was rebuilt?

 

Me too. We will be taking two cars. 28 Coupe and a 29 Roadster both Banger powered. We'll be camping. Look forward to seeing you and the misses. Funny how the voice to text spells. Hope your engine doesn't miss. Hope to see that Mrs.

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All weekend long the car took me to personal best lap times 10 and 12 seconds lower (depending on the track configuration. In the qualifying race, I had a tremendous challenge from the #31 car, a 1931 Alfa Romeo "Monza" Gran Prix car (the third car in the photo). He never headed me; but it wore both of us out. In the Sunday Main event, we traded the lead just about every lap. I finally "Put the Hammer Down" the best I could; and beat him to the "Checker"!

 

Good for you Mr. Dawg. Looks like my kind of weather and fun racing.