First time builder, picked up a pretty rotten model a tudor body I want to bring back to life. Grabbed a frame and some other pieces along the way. I want to keep everything above scrub line, but my real question is how much space between the ground and frame gives a reasonable ride? I don't want to be blocked out of parking lots by speed bumps. I am going to channel the body over the frame to aid in the low stance look. Second question. I acquired a stock big block fairly cheap (ideally I would grab a flat head but I am on a fairly tight budget right now, eventually going to be putting in a flat head). I realize the space between the cowl and grill shell is fairly limited. Do people tend to stretch the frame when trying to stuff a big block in? I may try to trade or sell the big block to fund a flat head.
If you want a flathead find one and put it in. No sense in building something you don't really want, You'll never be happy with it. I've built a Model A with a flathead and working on a second one now, Both of mine are full fendered with a 4" dropped axle and the rear of the frame stepped 3". Fits the tires to the fenders and isn't low enough to cause problems.
Thanks. Even though I will be going fenderless, the frame still has the running board brackets. I will use jackstands to get to a stock height, lower the front 4" and the rear 3". Then I will measure from the ground to the bottom of the running board bracket. Then set the frame to that height and see how I like the look.
You will probably have to stretch the frame to install a big block in there. Then when you put a flathead in, it will look weird with a stretched frame. Post #2 suggests to just do the flathead, and skip the big block......I agree 100%. While you save $$$ for the purchase and rebuild of a flathead, use that time to fix the "rotten" sedan body.
Step back, take a deep breath and put together a comprehensive plan BEFORE you buy any more stuff. It's always better to know where you're going before you decide how to get there... If this is your first rodeo keep it simple. Don't fall into the trap of using parts just because they are readily available and/or cheap. And keep in mind that balance is the key to success. This applies to hot rods as well as pretty much everything else. Good luck!
Well, this is my first build of my own, first time working on a model a. I grew up helping my dad build a '56 chevy sedan (pro street setup). Been around hot rods my whole life. Worked in a shop for awhile that had a steady stream of muscle cars needing brake conversions, steering upgrades and motor work besides the modern cars that came in. What I currently have is a pretty crusty body, but its mostly straight. The rear panel is beyond repair, will be looking for a replacement in better condition. All other sheetmetal work is not a problem for me. I have a frame, completely stock with all brackets and such still attached. I have a model a axle (not dropped, currently building an axle jig to drop it 2", had the machine shop check it for cracks, will do the sane after the process). I have split the front wishbone. The backing plates and drums were unsalvageable, so now need to determine if I should get later spindles and go disk brakes in the front or if I want to use drum brakes (hydraulic). Currently undecided if I want to do a suicide front suspension, spring behind (already fabricated brackets for the wishbones to mount the spring) or to have the axle in stock location, spring over (with a new 4" drop axle). Ideally, I want this to be a lakes style car. Fenderless, chopped, and worn paint. I would prefer a quickchange, but that is currently not in my budget options. I will be searching for a rear end soon. I have been having trouble locating photos of 28/9 tudor's at the lakes. I prefer to have the tudor to ride low. I am not into the highboy look for this build and body style. Definitely want to stay away from the RR look, I dont want to be dragging frame wherever I drive.
There is more than one way to get to this stance, but before you buy any parts, you need to lay the car out on the shop floor, body at the height you want, tires in the location that works, engine and trans pan 5" off the floor, radiator shell at grill height, then you have a starting point. Then you have to decide on the type of suspension you want, and calculate the amount of spring compression so you don't fabricate things in the wrong place. I make all of my cars with adjustable ride height as to allow to fine tune the height as the springs settle. I can dig up pictures if you want.
There's a lot of onfo on this forum.....take the time and read. Be patient. If all you have cash for is a budget build use what finds you. This doesn't have to be the end all of a build. Go look at stuff at shows, find something that you like and work backwards.
Alright, because I found nothing on the forum for this.... when I was running errands today I measured speedbumps if I was going to walk by one walking into the store. Anywhere between 4"-8" depending on the severity of the bump. That answers my original question. With taking scrub lines into consideration with the planned tires and wheels, I now know a baseline that will clear the speed bumps. Thank you all for your time. My goal over the next month or two is to get the body put together and important patches done. I will be starting a project thread sometime today with pictures of what condition the body is in and my plans to fix it.
Not so much the speed bumps but railroad track crossings and some parking lots where you enter at an angle going thru a gutter and up into the parking lot. 7" is about right if you dont' want to bump into stuff.
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