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Projects My first build. 1929/31 model A

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Tobbe J, Dec 13, 2013.

  1. Tobbe J
    Joined: Dec 12, 2010
    Posts: 277

    Tobbe J
    Member

    Panel repair. Found this panel a figured it needed an overhaul. Turned out okay and it’s now put aside until I’ve decided which body style I’m gonna go with. If I’m correct it’s for the top piece of the windshield frame, above the visor?
    [​IMG]

    After finishing the panel I test fitted the radiator and decided it needs to move 1.75” forward from the radiator hole in the crossmember. Just to see what it looks like I decided to put my brand new Brookville -32 grille shell on, but it doesn’t fit. It seems like my brand new radiator is made for the model A grille shell since it’s 20” wide instead of 17-18” that would fit the -32 shell. The $900 I paid for a 59AB and the new radiator now seems like a sour deal, the block was cracked across the main bearing and the radiator doesn’t fit. Damn.

    Found a China made aluminum radiator in correct size for $275 inc tax that I can source locally. I’ll have to spray it black to make it look better, but I can’t spend $1200 on a walker radiator. The radiator will hopefully show up on Tuesday.
     
    Last edited: Nov 7, 2017
  2. Tobbe J
    Joined: Dec 12, 2010
    Posts: 277

    Tobbe J
    Member

    Last edited: Nov 7, 2017
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  3. Tobbe J
    Joined: Dec 12, 2010
    Posts: 277

    Tobbe J
    Member

    Been thinking about radiator clearance. Compared to other installations I’ve seen, it seems like my engine is located at the correct position.

    [​IMG]

    But I won’t be able to fit the radiator in the mounting holes in the crossmember, is that normal? It seems like I need to move the radiator 1.75” forward with brackets to clear the fan. There is no way that I can get the fan closer to the engine since it’s already really close to the water pump pulleys. The only solution would be to remove the fan and use an electric fan in front of the radiator, or move the crossmember forward.

    [​IMG]

    Any ideas?
     
  4. Tobbe J
    Joined: Dec 12, 2010
    Posts: 277

    Tobbe J
    Member

    The new radiator showed up today. Gotta love companies who overnights their parts!

    The radiator I ordered looked like this in their web shop, filler neck on the top and a loose neck and cap to weld on your own. I thought it would be a small problem to solve since it was just $300 including shipping and tax.

    [​IMG]

    But I was pleasantly surprised when I opened the box today, the neck was in the right place and no welding or modification needed. It was a good feeling to place the radiator on the frame and just slide the grille shell on, perfect fit.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    It will be painted black as soon as I know everything fits as it should.

    Tomorrow I’ll try to find some copper tubing I can use to fabricate the coolant pipes. Need to find some hoses that will fit between the lower pipes in the radiator and the water pumps as well. The other radiators pipes lined up perfect for two straight hoses, but these are a little bit more narrower and doesn’t line up as good. The distance will help since the hoses can be 4-5” long.
     
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  5. Tobbe J
    Joined: Dec 12, 2010
    Posts: 277

    Tobbe J
    Member

    I found 35 mm (1,37”) copper tubing, which was just in between the radiator inlets of 38mm (1,5”) and the thermostat housings 32mm (1,26”). The problem is that no one seems to be able to bend them for me. The pipes are used in plumbing, but the plumbers use press fittings for the angles they need, and straight pipes. Found a company that could bend the pipes, but I have to ship them 700 km’s north to get it done.

    Been thinking about my cowl steering and decided to read up on the subject. It seems like the drag link should ha e the same length as the wishbone, and they should both be parallel to the ground to avoid bump steer as much as possible. My wishbones are actually a little bit longer than the imagined location of the steering arm, should I shorten them?

    [​IMG]

    I’m also trying to figure out where to put the Schroeder steering gear. Higher up for a better angle of the steering wheel, but then the steering arm needs to be longer to let the drag link be parallel to the ground. The steering wheel will also come closer to me. It will also affect the ratio and give less travel between lock to lock angles. I think I need the remove the cowl panel and try to do a mock up where I have the steering wheel set up comfortably and see where it ends up.
     
    Last edited: Nov 10, 2017
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  6. Tobbe J
    Joined: Dec 12, 2010
    Posts: 277

    Tobbe J
    Member

    [​IMG]
    Bolted the Speedway ceramic coated header on to the drivers side to check clearance for a conventional steering box. Didn’t look too shabby and there seems to be room for either a model A or F1/100(?) box. Scratched the ceramic coating with my wedding ring, not very durable it seems...

    [​IMG]
    Will need to redo the oil line from the block to the filter housing since it seems to be unnecessary long and unorganized.
     
  7. Tobbe J
    Joined: Dec 12, 2010
    Posts: 277

    Tobbe J
    Member

    I haven’t done anything to the A in a long time, I just can’t find the inspiration. So, to make up for not moving forward I spend money on parts instead. Right now I’m in California enjoying the sun and soon the cars at GNRS. Might as well order some parts to bring home:

    Upper coolant hoses/pipes
    [​IMG]

    Kit with upper and lower hoses
    [​IMG]

    Pertronix
    [​IMG]

    With flame thrower coil
    [​IMG]

    While I’m ordering parts I bought a rebuilt carb for the Rambler from Uremco. Nice people to deal with and decent priced. Got tired of leaking shaft, non working choke and flot that got stuck. Now I just need to get in touch with Galvins Rambler parts to order some weather seals. I think I need to pay for extra weight on the way home..
     
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  8. gnichols
    Joined: Mar 6, 2008
    Posts: 11,351

    gnichols
    Member
    from Tampa, FL

    Great stuff. I really appreciate your build and ROMO event photos. Gary
     
  9. Tobbe J
    Joined: Dec 12, 2010
    Posts: 277

    Tobbe J
    Member

    Thanks Gary!


    Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
     
  10. Tobbe J
    Joined: Dec 12, 2010
    Posts: 277

    Tobbe J
    Member

    Yesterday at GNRS I found a sport coupe with the same chop as mine. Looks good!

    [​IMG]

    Other than that car there were at lot of nice hot rods and customs to look at and get inspired by. You guys over here are truly spoiled, both with weather,parts and shows!

    Since I haven’t bought a car to ship home this time, I’m some what limited in my shopping for parts, but I just bought a set of 3” airplane belts that will look good.

    [​IMG]

    Will stop by the Old Ford Store in San Dimas to take a look. If I buy their barn find ‘32 I’ll solve the space issue on the way home....

    [​IMG]


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  11. Tim_with_a_T
    Joined: Apr 30, 2011
    Posts: 1,368

    Tim_with_a_T
    Member

    I just re-read from the beginning. You've come a long way and have a lot to be proud of. Enjoy your vacation so you can kick ass when you get home!
     
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  12. Tobbe J
    Joined: Dec 12, 2010
    Posts: 277

    Tobbe J
    Member

    Thank you sir, I appreciate it!


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  13. Tobbe J
    Joined: Dec 12, 2010
    Posts: 277

    Tobbe J
    Member

    Since I bought a box to put stuff in I could start finding stuff to bring home.

    The box:
    [​IMG]

    Found a couple of oxygen tanks on Craigslist but it seems to be hard to actually strike a deal. Either people don’t respond to phone calls, texts or emails, or they are not at home. Managed to find one today that I could go and pick up right away, I’m happy about that, but would like to have one more with me.

    The tank:
    [​IMG]

    If anyone knows about tanks for sale in the Los Angeles area I’m all ears :)


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  14. Tobbe J
    Joined: Dec 12, 2010
    Posts: 277

    Tobbe J
    Member

    Well, we were supposed to fly back to Sweden last Wednesday when my wife realized that she lost her Swedish visa. In other words, we got an extended vacation while waiting for a new visa from a slow working embassy, and that gave me more time to look at ads... Finally managed to buy two more oxygen tanks, one in red primer and the other all original with the text intact.

    And then I found this..

    [​IMG]

    Engine stuck and a bad fill job on the roof, otherwise it’s complete and it looks pretty rust free.

    It will now share container with the BMW and I’m really looking forward to taking delivery!


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  15. jwendin
    Joined: Jun 5, 2011
    Posts: 7

    jwendin
    Member
    from Sweden

    Så du har vart över och handlat lite.najs . Själv åker jag och frugan på söndag. Ska bli riktigt kul


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  16. 340HilbornDuster
    Joined: Nov 14, 2011
    Posts: 1,985

    340HilbornDuster
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

  17. Tobbe J
    Joined: Dec 12, 2010
    Posts: 277

    Tobbe J
    Member

    Oj, jag hade missat era svar!

    Ha ha, frugan frågade om jag skulle köpa något, och jag tänkte ”näää”. Men jo, craigslist kan vara farligt, trist att det tar sån tid att få hem prylarna och att frakt och alla avgifter blir så dyrt. Finns mycket kul man skulle vilja köpa men det blir helt fel när det kommer hem.

    Hoppas ni hade en trevlig resa!


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  18. Tobbe J
    Joined: Dec 12, 2010
    Posts: 277

    Tobbe J
    Member

  19. Tobbe J
    Joined: Dec 12, 2010
    Posts: 277

    Tobbe J
    Member

    So, long time since my last post, but as usual no progress has been made, except that the sport coupe body and the Z-ed frame have been sold. I bought the coupe and will try to make it run so I can have some fun driving it while it’s being hot rodded. I will of course use the wheels, brakes and chassis components on the coupe. Hopefully the motor will loosen up so I can see what condition the rest is in.

    The container is scheduled to arrive in Sweden on April 22 and I’ll get to work right away.


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  20. Tobbe J
    Joined: Dec 12, 2010
    Posts: 277

    Tobbe J
    Member

    [​IMG]

    The point of no return was passed tonight, the body is sold and the sport coupe era is ended.

    [​IMG]

    Chassis is still intact, but will be taken apart tomorrow if I have enough time. The hot rod corner in my work shop will soon be ready for the coupe


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  21. mike bowling
    Joined: Jan 1, 2013
    Posts: 3,560

    mike bowling
    Member

    Looks like a great start. What's the overall plan? Keep posting pictures, be safe, and enjoy your new car. Mike in Mass, USA


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  22. Tobbe J
    Joined: Dec 12, 2010
    Posts: 277

    Tobbe J
    Member

    Thanks Mike!

    The plan is to free the engine and see if it will run, and if that’s the case, make the car roadworthy and get it registered and drive it. My plan is to modify while driving it starting with wheels, dropped axle, BLC headlights etc. Winter project will be installing hydraulic brakes and look into fitting the V8.

    Pictures will definitely come, starting with me hugging the car when I pick it up, the wait has been long


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  23. Tobbe J
    Joined: Dec 12, 2010
    Posts: 277

    Tobbe J
    Member

    Frame sold and this is what’s left.
    [​IMG]

    My containers arrived in Sweden today, and I hope I can pick up my cars this week
     
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  24. Tobbe J
    Joined: Dec 12, 2010
    Posts: 277

    Tobbe J
    Member

    Picked up the bimmer today and said hi to the model a.
    IMG_2504.JPG
    Nice to see them on Swedish ground after 10 weeks apart.

    Model A will be picked up tomorrow with the help from a good friend and his flatbed.
     
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  25. Tobbe J
    Joined: Dec 12, 2010
    Posts: 277

    Tobbe J
    Member

    So the model A has landed in my shop today. Had to tinker with it a little bit, so I test fitted my 16” wire wheels and pulled the starter to try to free up the engine. The previous owner tried by spraying the cylinders with some penetrating oil and fixing a bar with a 75 pound weight applying torque to the crank.

    I bought some Marvels Mystery Oil and will pour some down the cylinders tomorrow to see if it helps.

    IMG_2539.JPG
    IMG_2541.JPG

    Someone did a shady tube shock install many years ago by welding brackets to the front axle. The angles are weird to say the least so they’ll have to go when I swap the front axle for the dropped one. Will also install my reverse eye springs and make sure the chassis is in good working order.

    This car won’t get a roof chop but instead kept original with bolt on modifications that can be reversed if I feel like it.
     
  26. GASSERBOB
    Joined: Nov 26, 2010
    Posts: 520

    GASSERBOB
    Member
    from USA

    Looks good with the 16's Tobbe. It looks like a really nice coupe to start with. Are you keeping the fenders on it? Keep us updated with pictures and all the stuff you do to it Tobbe. Looks Cool. Bob.................
     
  27. Tobbe J
    Joined: Dec 12, 2010
    Posts: 277

    Tobbe J
    Member

    Thanks Bob!
    The car is in really god condition as far as I can tell. Don’t know anything about the running gear but I hope it okay. The fenders will stay on, I thinks it helps to make the car look a little bit lower.


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  28. Tobbe J
    Joined: Dec 12, 2010
    Posts: 277

    Tobbe J
    Member

    I removed the hood today to get more access to the engine. Decided to pull the head to make it a little bit easier to free up the engine. Pulling the head proved to be harder than expected, it’s really stuck! Ordered two hooks to thread into the spark plug holes so I can use my cherry picker and lift while I try to persuade the head off the block. The locking screw for the distributor is also stuck, I hope I can lift the head with the distributor still attached.
    IMG_2631.JPG IMG_2630.JPG
     
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  29. Stogy
    Joined: Feb 10, 2007
    Posts: 26,348

    Stogy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    @Tobbe J...there are times when I think nuts and bolts are really there just in case...this is one of those times...I'm not a mechanic of unstucking 80 plus years of being together but maybe some strategic blows with a hammer to a hard piece of wood to certain areas around the studs and head while you have load or prying force on it may help to break it free. Others here are veterans of such activities and may have a few ideas knocking around...best of luck.
     
  30. Tobbe J
    Joined: Dec 12, 2010
    Posts: 277

    Tobbe J
    Member

    Right! It seems like the nuts and bolt are there for decoration purposes only.

    I think it will loosen up with some careful beating of the head around the studs, or on the studs themselves. Now it would be nice with an induction heater, but the torch will have to do :)

    Report will follow!


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