I would like to center the steering on my '63 M100 but it has a non-adjustable drag link. I can't find any information on the procedure or what I could possibly be overlooking. The steering box is centered stop to stop and the toe in is correct the steering wheel is just a little off so I am not quite at the high point in the steering box. I thought of replacing one end of the drag link with an adjustable tie rod, however I thought I would see if there are any other suggestions.
The arm on the steering box could be one spline off. Usually if that is the problem, it is more than a “ little “off center, but doesn’t cost any thing to check. Bones
Sounds like me trying to center the wheel on my 98 BMW today. It is a tad off and that bugs the crap out of me being an old front end alignment specialist who was amendment about having the steering centered. If the wheel is splined rather than keyed you could pull the wheel and put it on straight even if it is off the mark on the shaft. I think I would at least pop the horn button and see if the wheel matched the mark on the shaft if there is a mark. Centering the wheel that way may not be the "accepted correct" way but it may be the only way without installing an adjustable drag link. Years ago in Texas I had a customer tell me his car pulled to the left when he went down the street. I said lets go for a test drive and I drove it over to my test drive street and drove down the street hands off and it drove straight as an arrow. He says "no when I turn the wheel so it goes straight it goes to the left. The wheel was about 1 minute on the clock off of dead center and he would turn the wheel to center going down the street. We went back, I fixed it and he was happy. It wasn't a car I had aligned but I gained a customer.
Reminds me of my younger days as a panelbeater. You'd repair and replace the front end, get it wheel aligned and the customer would say the wheel was off centre. I'd pop the horn button, loosen the main nut and drive around the block. When out of sight of the customer, thump the wheel back with your fists while driving slowly, centre it, bolt back together and hand it back to the customer.
A good front end guy does it with the tie rod and the cross link on a cross steer car. It becomes infinitely adjustable on a GM car with a center link. If your steering box is centered ( count the turns) and your wheels are straight and your wheel is not centered then You may need to move the steering wheel, that is about all you can do with a fixed drag link on a side steer car. A problem you run into with an old truck or even an old car is that over time things get a little bent. You may not see it and it may be several things that are a little off to make your steering wheel a little off.
That pitman arm can't be re clocked. It is only partly splined (like about 30 percent) and uses the Pinch Bolt. The pinch bolt fits in a relief that just fits the bolt. Yes, it can be done but requires some hand file work. Probably not where I'd go. The Steering wheel is a tapered spline with a index spline in one spot. To re clock the wheel again you need to get out the Hand file. This is kind of, it can't go together Wrong system (most of the time) My question is; what isn't stock about it? The Wizzard
If it just a little off, loosen the u-bolts on the front axle and shove the axle forward, you may need try it twice if you go the wrong way. There should be just a little wiggle room on each locating pin of the leaf springs, so you might get lucky and get it centered. Moving the steering wheel from the center position is not the way to cure the problem. Gear boxes are meant to be centered, the tight position of center helps maintain straight driving and keeps you from always correcting. You also might find a little wiggle room at the left steering arm where it attaches to the spindle. Leaf spring locating bushings could be loose. Anything that lets the front axle move forward or backwards can effect the center position of the steering wheel, so check it all.
Well, that's what I though. I would just adjust the pitman arm on the shaft, because that is would I thought the steering is centered. However that is not it because the pitman arm does not allow for adjustment on the '63 box.
Thanks for the reply, and I thought of your suggestion however that would put the high point on the 'ball nut' right at the edge and wouldn't help the steering. What I did consider is bending the spindle arm, or shimming the spindle arm but neither would be acceptable practice either. And yes even if the steering high point was set I also would find a steering wheel that is off very disturbing.
I just might be wrong. I read your opening line as a 1953 not 1963. You just might be able to just move the steering wheel on the shaft. I don't know when Ford changed the clocking spline but do know for a Fact that my 1965 steering gear does NOT have a timed spline. It is in fact a continues spline with NO clocking spline for the Steering Wheel on the shaft and can be moved one spline at any point in the wheel. Sorry for the incorrect info. The Wizzard
Thank you for you comments. I have counted the turns lock to lock (with the pitman arm off) and the the steering wheel is perfectly centered which is also where the tightest pint is so I know that part is fine. I messure the drag link against another I have and it is not bent. I guess it could be the spindle arm. I looked at the spring center bolt and the axle has not moved. So I was thinking that there might be some minor adjust on the steering box itself or adding a washer under the arm but this doesn't seem like the solution. I have another F100 with a adjustable drag link. It is worn and sloppy but this may be the best solution. I just have to find one or make one I guess.
Looks like a problem I had on a 41 international I had, didn't steer one way, as much as the other, looked just like your set up, previous owner put the leaf springs in backwards... Measure center bolt to spring end's, looks like the axle needs to move forward
The 70`s ford pick ups were this way. No way to adjust wheel center. They would buy a new truck, bring it in for alignment because the wheel was off alittle bit and a couple turned beet red and all upset to learn there was no adjustment. On yours before I went heating and beating on things, first find gear center, second with toe in properly set see how your front wheels line up with the back wheels then see how much difference in length your looking at one the drag link. At which point I would put an adjustable drag link on it and if that's not possible I'd shorten or lengthen the drag link as necessary. I wouldn't go heating and beating on arms because different tires, alignment, toe changes will change center again. As stated above just make sure your steering gear is centered.
That pitman arm can't be re clocked. It is only partly splined (like about 30 percent) and uses the Pinch Bolt. The pinch bolt fits in a relief that just fits the bolt. Yes, it can be done but requires some hand file work. Probably not where I'd go. The Steering wheel is a tapered spline with a index spline in one spot. To re clock the wheel again you need to get out the Hand file. This is kind of, it can't go together Wrong system (most of the time) My question is; what isn't stock about it? The Wizzard Thank you for your comments and suggestions. Yeah, i don't want to go filing just to make something fit, I would rather find the problem. The truck is completely stock likely the original drag link since the truck has low miles But something could be bent and that's what I am trying to find. Thanks for the suggestions. I like your idea about checking the spring bolt for shift. I think before I do that I am going to check the frame to see if it is square or may have been hit in one corner causing this type of problem. I could just move the axle front or back but I think it would be best if I checked the frame and axles for parrallel.
Whoops! Sorry about that, some are some aren’t. Check to see if the axle is in the right position. That is, is the spring bolt in the right place. Is the spring locater ( bracket) right? If so obtain an adjustable drag link. Bones
Thank you for your comments and suggestions they are helpful in things I may have overlooked. I feel that I need to check the frame for square as I have checked gear center, toe in, tire pressure, loose bushings, bent parts. I could cut and sleeve the drag link but that is permanent. So I like the adjustable drag link so I may have to locate something like that or cut and thread the link and put on a tie rod end. I have another F100 with an adjustable link but it is worn out maybe I can find a number on it.
My Chevrolet used the same size holes for dragline and tie-rods, so make the dragline adjustable, I simply used tie-rod ends with a new steel threaded rod for the center section. If you have a spare long center section for the tie-rods, cut off the right hand threads, shorten the length to dragline size, rethread the right hand threads, and bolt it in place.
Thanks for the comments. That is along the idea of how I will do it. The drag link rod is 5/8", so I am cutting off one end ( to a length that allows adjustment) and then using a tie rod end with internal(female) thread. I don't need much adjustment. By the way I have found out what has caused the centering problem. The frame has a slight diamond shape. At some point in its life it could have been hit at the front corner. It isn't noticeable when I drive but I think that is the cause, everything else seems straight and tight and correct.
You are probably on to something there with the tweaked frame. When I had my steering dead center, I added two more degrees of caster shims for a total of four. Just that little bit changed the center position 1/8 turn off to one side. It's surprising how sensitive the drag-link to steering wheel position really is.
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