Hi guys. I've just bought a stock 39 tudor. I'm wanting to lower it. Im planing on a dropped axle but keeping stock brakes, wheels, radius rods ect. I will fit big and little bias ply tyres to the stock rims. Im not sure whether to go for 3"or 4" dropped axle. Im thinking all I need is the axle a king pin set and dropped steering arms. Is that correct? Will there be any other issue with the steering drag link? Also whats a good way to drop the back. I don't think reversed spring eyes will anywhere near enough. Any pics of your cars with similar mods would be helpful. Sent from my SM-T805Y using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
HAMB'er eric54chev had a nice thread in which he lowered a '41 Merc. Maybe it will be of some help. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/tale-of-my-two-1941-mercs.966151/
On my drag link to clear the 8ba oil pan, I had to heat and bend the pitman arm. removed the offset and made it straight.
How much of a drop is your axle? Is the 8ba oil pan different than the stock 39 one? Sent from my SM-T805Y using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Be aware that most (all?) reproduction dropped axles won't have the same perch bolt distance as your original (and some unscrupulous vendors will tell you it will fit even though it won't). You will need to modify the wishbones and spring. I recommend dropping the original axle and it will bolt right in. Also recommend just heating and dropping the original arms on the original spindles.
Contact Sid and explain exactly what you want to do. He drops OEM axles and will tell you all options available and help you a lot. http://www.droppedaxles.com/ford-dropped-axle Plus, be sure to read every single word and link in the 3 page thread below. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/lower-the-40-ford.777719/
This is a very common mis given of information. It all depends on how one measures the drop. Most of the Vendors measure it in Total drop from strait. They forget or don't tell you that the Axle don't start out strait. Most already have a slight drop to start with. In flat39's case he started with a factory step of 2" and the total drop of new Axle was 4" forgetting to subtract the Factory setting. If you have your stock axle dropped be sure it gets dropped the additional amount you want. Also know that not all Axles can be dropped an additional 4" from stock due to the amount of Axle Beam past the wish bone mount holes. The Wizzard
P.S. If yo go to Sid's sight and look at his dropped Axles he states 4" total drop, not additional 4" drop of car. To me that is not explained well for the Common home builder.
aussie57wag: Above info. is crucial, so make sure everyone is understanding the meaning of "dropped". A 4 inch dropped axle doesn't actually lower your car 4 inches or even 6 inches. Magnum makes a bolt in dropped axle for your 39 that is 3/4 inch narrower to provide better tire/fender clearance. It is a cast axle, which many say is not good. So, when you talk with Sid ask him if you could have your axle dropped so that it comes out a little narrower than stock. That will center your tires better. He will also drop your steering arms. Plus, if you "rake" your 40 the gear oil from the rear end will have a tendency to run forward into the hollow torque tube, thereby draining you rear end. Over time, the gear oil will dissolve the rubber encasing the torque tube center bearing making the bearing useless. These OEM bearings are no longer being made but there is a replacement available from "Skip" Haney on Fordbarn. Plus, there may be an old timer who has one sitting on his shelf and would sell. If you can find one they are usually very expensive. A special seal is also available to prevent the gear oil from draining from the rear end. To lower your rear end, you can remove spring leafs, have your stock spring eyes reversed, buy a Posie super low spring or use longer shackles -not recommended as they induce sway. Of course you can also change to 15 inch wheels and smaller dia. tires up front with larger on the rear to give a "rubber rake" as was common back in the day. Like I said, read the above thread. Also, if possible read through some old hot rod magazines for ideas. Finally, when you see a 39 or 40 dropped the way you like, ask owner plenty of questions and get the complete info. on what was done, what type of engine, drive train and front suspension his car has as that alone will heavily influence changes required like splitting your wishbones or Mustang II P/S.. When you change just one thing, it usually requires a modification somewhere else. For instance, too low and the rubber bump stops on the frame will bottom out on the axle. You can see the shape of the bearing in the black blob below and later what's left of the bearing. Next to last photo is 40 Ford with stock front suspension and rear suspension with flathead engine and stock transmission and stock 16 in. tires and wheels. The only thing changed was the installation of Posie #2440 reversed eye spring which immediately lowered the car 1 inch and will lower it a little more once it settles. Photo was taken right after install. A 4 inch dropped axle would lower it 2 more inches. The drop obtained in the very last photo is explained in the links. Hope this helps. All the best with your 39.
To get Sid to drop the axle would be the go. However with me being in Australia its probably a bit impractical. I will just have to buy a correct axle and dropped steering arms to suit. To drop the rear sounds like I will have to just reverse the spring eyes and take out the short top leaf. If I want to come down further I will lengthen the shackles. I knos most say its not good because of increased sway. But I think if I make up a long panhard bar for it it should be ok. I may also have to find where yo get the part needed to stop the oil running from the diff into the torque tube. Thanks for the info and link. Sent from my SM-T805Y using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Thanks for the info. See my reply to another post. But you info was very helpful. Sent from my SM-T805Y using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Gary Page in Victoria does axles. Very experienced. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/dropped-drilled-axle-identification.465799/#post-5139681
yep get garry page to do a 36 axle for you use 35/36 radius rods as well as your 39 stubs , the earlier axle has more length in the area that needs to be dropped
Here's where you buy the torque tube seal. http://www.brucesrodshop.com/ It will slide over the coupler pins if you use grease and first remove any burrs on the pins. You will also have to install a vent on one of the axle tubes when you use the torque tube seal. Originally, the rear "vented" thru the torque tube. So while you have the rear out replace the clam shell seal and the front bearing seal and inspect your torque tube center bearing,. I used this clamshell seal. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-flath...ash=item3a7ffa88a8:g:6MQAAMXQTghRXOy6&vxp=mtr Refill the clamshell with John Deere corn head grease. Buy 3 tubes so you can use it in your steering box if it ever starts to leak. Here's more info: https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=218314&highlight=install+banjo+torque+tube+seal and https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=215509&highlight=install+banjo+torque+tube+seal and https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=216311&highlight=install+torque+tube+banjo+seal and https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=215937&highlight=install+torque+tube+banjo+seal Zip over to Fordbarn and do a search on: Install Torque Tube banjo Oil Seal for much more.
Hi ive just fitted the seal all seamed to go well except I cant get the cir clip on the end of the drive shaft that goes against the speedo gear. The speedo gear is sitting just a bit to far forward for it all to fit. How can I get it back that little bit? It only has to go back the thickness of the seal housing.
Gee, I didn't have that problem. That doesn't seem possible as I don't think the fitment of the speedo gear and that snap ring would be effected by the torque tube seal. The two aren't related. All that torque tube seal would do is move the torque tube forward a tiny bit due to thickness of the seal and gaskets. . Did you check and make sure the bearing and seal at the front of the drive shaft are "in all the way"?
This is about the best article I've ever seen on dropping a fat Ford: https://www.hotrod.com/articles/0709sr-1939-ford-deluxe-sedan/
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