Hello, I'd like to welcome me to you. My name is Kris. I am man. I am handsome and I have been told I am the songbird of my generation (by my mom) Anywho, I am fresh to the scene. I have spent numerous years collecting 1930s bicycles and pre 1945 motorcycles. I am transitioning to automobiles (sorta). I have stumbled across this site many times over the years due to the bad assery of vehicles posted. After I saw the 1938 TROG single seater on here I had to become involved. (I love that build) Hope the next owner doesn't do a damn thing to it I am currently building a 1918 Harley Davidson Cyclecar. I don't consider this a rat rod nor am I trying to fool anyone. I am combining all the attributes of things I love from other cars into this one. I welcome your thoughts but be gentle, Im sensitive Dan Orabona of Taylar Motorbikes is my chief Fabricator. Okay, he is the only Fabricator. I have worked with Dan for many years and he is very well-known for building THE best tribute cycles on the planet. I have been pondering the build for several years and have designed and researched every aspect of building this cyclecar. We actually started 3 separate times in the past but plans got watered down. This time she was a GO. Started out with an early model T front end and frame. I then purchased a belly tank to cut up for the tough radius points. After realizing the frame would require a ton of work and welding to it would be tough, we decided to use new steel for the frame. We also decided to not cut up the belly tank and use steel for the body. I rebuilt the front suspension. I used massive 30x3 Kelsey steelies and switched the Sturmey Archer hubs to fit model T spindles. I mounted some Coker tires and they stand 32" now. After dialing the frame in to .001 or less we mounted a Harley 1200 twin cycle at 5 points. We removed all the unnecessary frame/front end. We then cut the wishbone and added long radius rods. Dan fabbed a panhard bar to reduce the frame swing. (There was a lot of left/right movement due to the single rear wheel). After resolving all the tracking, toe and camber issues we mounted a vega box and Dan made a belly pan. I used pallet wood to mock up some of the floor. I made a seat from a 1918 Ford Tudor. We used model T pedals on a custom shaft and bar linkage. We will be finishing the seat perch/rails then work on building the buck to shape the body. when finished, it will sit evenly at 6" off the ground. Body will be 25" wide and 30" tall (36" from ground) I will post more as work progresses.
Here is another pic. The original design was to seat 2, cockpit style. The design was too retarded. The cab was way too forward and the tail looked like a tadpole at 2 weeks. She will only seat 1.
Spent another day working on her. We finished the brake linkage and seat perch/rails. Next step will be shaping the rear deck lid then mocking up some buck pieces to have laser cut. Should be taking shape soon. Going slow but doing it right I think.
Working on the rear tail piece, we started with a late 30's Chevy hood. We spent 2 days on the English wheel. We were able to shape it without making any cuts. How is that possible???
Hey dude, sorry for the error and not "reading the rules". (That is usually the FIRST thing I do when I find a new forum!) I am new and couldn't find where to post a build thread. Thanks for letting me know so nicely. Sorry I offended you by posting in an inappropriate location on your site. I will try and find where I am supposed to post it.
Kris, this is usually where guys say, hi, i'm so-n-so, from hereabouts, and a couple of members say hey back to ya. Your build thread can go on the general discussion forum, or, if you want, do a search for the Cyclecars thread. They'd be interested in this. K6
Hi Nathan, JUST read this! Sorry, I dont visit too often. You are welcome to come by anytime youre in the hood Kris
Should be done in a month. Working on changing all the bolts to steel rivets, interior panels, grille and final welds.
Do you remember how Fred Flintstone powered his vehicle? Actually, I will stand on the left side, facing the rear, and use my left hand to steer as I push the 1050 lb beast. If I am parked on a steep down grade then I will have to call AAA.
I was born half retarded and semi stupid. Can someone tell me HOW/WHERE to post this thread??? Thank you
Cool. Just keep thinking ahead, before the need for reverse ariseth. Are you running a belt or a chain?
Love it. Nice job. Gary PS... if you don't know, there is a cyclecar thread on the HAMB that's very inspiring. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/lets-talk-cyclecars.226791/page-357#post-12475895
She is belt driven. I have a bunch of info and pictures but have no idea where I am supposed to post this. The site isn't friendly for the knowledge impaired. Once I find the right spot to post a real thread, I will Have a peachy day
Thanks Gary I saw this thread when I first got on this site. I couldnt figure out how to post a new thread on it, there was no option for it. Maybe because I was new? Anywho, I will go back and re-attempt. Thanks for your help! Kris
A moderator must have moved it for you. It is in the correct forum now (and has been for a while as I would not have seen it as I don't usually look at the intros.) Carry on!
If that was at ride hight in the first picture in post #3, it's going to bump steer something terrible with the drag link running at that steep of an angle. Jump up and down on the front of the car and watch the steering wheel whip back and forth.
Bump steer was of little concern due to the dimensions and having very little weight up front. When test driven it had nearly none.
You can use a dedicated starter motor for reverse with some engagement pulley work. That's what the T-Rex uses.
Since my last post I have spent a few days with the patina. I really wanted a dark, almost black, rust. I couldn't get it past orange so I experimented with chemicals. It will do for now. I will sand it and try again later. I made 3 windshields but kept scraping them. A friend came by and handed me a '27 Essex windshield for free. I chopped, shrortened, shaved and bent it. I added 1/2" tubing and notched a channel for glass. Made post supports and rusted it. Added glass and a rubber glass/body seal. I also added a blister for fresh air intake where the cooling fan and oil cooler are located. Still trying to find out why it won't stay started.... Everything works fine except once the starter button is released it dies. ? Gotta chase down the problem then it should be good to go! (Sorry, won't allow me to load pics for some reason....?)