Hey guys, this is the second cluster Ive gotten and both are doing the same thing. Theres really no magic to wiring this thing, and Ive tested the sender unit, it reads the correct ohm's when moving the float up and down, Problem is the gauge needle wont move like its suppose to. Ive watched a bunch of youtube videos, and in all of them when you wire everything right, the gauge needle moves with the sender . This one not so much .. Wire the fuel gauge sender pole to the sender, the 12v pole to 12v. Everything good ground, cluster and sender unit both grounder to battery .. Any thoughts ? Thanks guys ...
I guess the only way we could help, would be if you post a picture of it all wired up, so we can see if you might have made a wiring error. Or just talk to whoever you bought it from, and see if they'll warranty it again. or find an old original gauge cluster, and fix it and use it.
I agree with KevKo. High probability. I see this is a Chevy 48-52 gage. Change your heading from Speedo to Fuel gauge.
Does the gauge do anything at all when you move the sender float arm? Weirdest speedo I've ever seen.
The gauge does nothing but hover around the full mark, when unhooked, when hooked up, it goes up past the full mark, it does not follow the sender unit, up and down like it should .. Dont know why the hell I Put speedo help, lol ... shit ...
Hey Squirrel, The post with the red tag on it, goes to the fuel sender unit. and the 12v post goes to switched power, ground the sender and gauge unit its self and everything should be good ... but nothing ...
What ohm reading are you getting on the sender? Original would 0-30, assuming aftermarket gauge cluster would be the same. The way you say it acts makes me think you have a 33-240 sender.
That looks like the 24-707D gauge set from Classic parts. Their stock style gauges call for a 30 ohm sender their part number for the universal unit being 23-522A If you bought the sender at a parts house or though an outfit that sells custom gauges you may have a 90 ohm sender. As far as "grounds" go the gauge grounds though the sender with the resistor in the sender controlling the flow of current to ground and thus moving the gauge. If you have the gauge grounded prior to connecting to the sender that would be your problem. It should be hot wire to gauge, wire from gauge to sender with sender housing being grounded. This is the stock wiring diagram for a 53 truck (it's the one I found) that shows how the stock wires connect to the gauge. Is it possible that you might be wiring it backwards? http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/electrical/wiring/pdf/53truck.pdf
Thanks again guys. I have a 30 OMH sender, Im thinking now my problem may be that Im grounding the gauge cluster also.. Thanks Mr48Chevy, Ill try it without grounding the gauge cluster and report back ... Cheers ....
After fooling with multiple gauges, senders, wires etc for over 20 years, (same vehicle) I gave up and got the "Fuel Link" from Classic Instruments (Summit on sale $140.00). Way too much money, but now I know how much gas I have and won't run out again. Note: price is still cheaper than a tow or the inconvenience of the whole situation. Just my opinion. Hope you can figure it out.
Seems to me the case of the gauge cluster is going to be grounded to the back of the dash, when it is mounted. Phil
The thing about you posting a picture of how you have it wired...we can guess how you have it wired from your description, but we can't see it. We might notice something you overlooked. Did you measure the sender resistance, from the sender housing to the terminal, and see if goes from zero ohms with the float all the way down, to 30 ohms with the float all the way up? Do you know for sure that the cluster you bought is supposed to have a fuel gauge that works with the 30 ohm sender? the gauge housing, the sender housing, and the negative terminal of the battery all need to be connected together, as they would in the truck, for the gauge to work
Hi squirrel, thanks for the help, Well, the customer told me the company that sold him the unit said its a 30 ohm, yes I tested the sender, and its moving the meter from 0 to 32 ohm,s .. I tried grounding the gauge housing, the sender housing to the battery, nothing .. Crazy thing, I got a cheep O fuel gauge from autozone, and it works. The customer told me, he ordered a diffirent gauge, and is gonna buy a better sender unit, so I guess we shall see..
So, I been monkeying around with it some moor, now its moving the gauge, but only from the 1/4 to 3/4 marks, it wont go all the way down to empty, or all the way up to the full mark ... Crazy damn thing ...
looks like it's connected like it should be. Do they make those clusters in China somewhere? just curious.
Hey squirrel, yea china or tiwan lol , not sure .... Im gonna try the " Fuel Link " that dirrty mentioned .
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Clas...MI5tKTu-TJ2gIVF7bACh0DSQRBEAQYASABEgJKlvD_BwE Damn shame they cant just make something that will work without having to put something like this in line ..
The Jalopy Journal
