I am looking at some engine compartment parts that were powder coated that will not match the parts I want to paint. will this stuff come off with a big wire wheel on a 3/4 HP buffer? maybe some other way? if not what about painting these parts? can you scuff and paint powder coat?
I worked for hours GRINDING (heavy sanding disk) the powder coating odd of a rear end axle housing. It was a thick coating. Fourdy
Best method I've found is a propane torch and a large hand wire brush. Heat it until it starts bubbling, then hit it with the brush. That should get most of it off, sandblasting/sanding will usually get what's left. The chemical stripper is just too nasty IMO, not to mention slow.
..thanks for the replies. if it will bubble I am there. I been bubbling paint off shit with fire for years.
I've tried every method mentioned here... the propane torch/hand wire brush works best with the least mess/work. And I've had uneven success with painting over it; it seems like the thicker the coating, the more likely you'll have paint issues.
I vote for painting over, I've had good luck with that. I think the trick is attention to prep work and a good cleaning just before the paint.
There are 2 different formulas for paint stripper. One works quite well on powder coat. The other will not do so good. The one has some kind of chemical in it that does the job. I never remember what it is. I always ask my powder coating friend.
Logic would tell you if it's that hard to get off and good shape then its a great base for a scuff and squirt. Especially new parts
Never tried to remove powder coating so I don't know. From several items that I have powder coated in the past the items seem to nick and scratch easily and not too happy with the outcome. Your saying that it,s hard to remove ? Gene
My dad had some wheels powdercoated for a resto he's having done and since the wheels were originally two colors they got coated in one color and I taped them off and painted the second color over the top, it seems to have worked out very well for that. I bought brand new red Scotchbrite scuff pads and really worked them to get a good "tooth" for the paint to stick to, seems to have worked well. If I had some powdercoated parts that I wanted to paint, unless the powdercoating was damaged in some ways, I'd prep and paint over the top.
When re-working parts that have been rejected and have already had one re-coat, production powder-coating suppliers re-heat coated parts and burn-off the previous layers. Also, when liquid painting over cured powder, you really need to know what type of powder was used. You may "get-away" with painting on a powder coated part but there can be incompatibility issues between the powder layer and liquid depending on what each base material is. Powder coat can be polyester, epoxy, acrylic, floropolymer or hybrid combinations of these. - EM
Still seems worth a try to scuff and shoot. As the alternatives are all gonna take off the top paint layer easy enough if it don't turn out nice.
I found aerosol paint strippers work very good on powder coating. Home Depot has a brand in a tall can, that I have used with good results.
Eastwood’s and Caswell Plating both sell Power Coat dissolver -it’s the shizzle - although it’s expensive. Well worth the time savings though IMO. Paint stripper is sometimes non-effective based on the thickness of the application of Powder. These dissolvers work like magic. https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-down-to-metal-paint-powder-stripper.html Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
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