Well, it keeps getting more confusing. I checked the compression on 7 and got 160. I checked 8 and got 160. I pulled the valve cover and the rockers and push rods are where they should be and operate perfectly. Then I started pulling all of the wires while the motor was running and discovered that both 4 and 7 are “dead”, meaning the idle doesn’t worsen when pulling the wire. I swapped 4 and 7 and it ran worse. I changed the firing order to the HO and it backfired through the carb. I changed the coil and that made no difference. I’m at a loss. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Get a new wire from the dizzy to #7. If that doesn't work, do a continuity test from the inside of the distributor's #7 lug to the outside connection/stud. I'm assuming you've already checked to see if the ground strap to the engine is nice and tight.
I tried a different wire with the same results Osage. I’ll double check the ground strap. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Dang. Kinda figured you went there already, but it seems I always forget the obvious, then wonder why I missed it in the first place. I just hate electrical stuff because I can't see it. Electrons moving through wire? Crazy talk.
I will be putting it on today cowboy. My local auto parts store had to order it from their warehouse Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
I'll bet that big cap solves the issue. They're ugly, but apparently necessary for the breakerless system.
Looks like the big cap was the ticket! Got the new cap, rotor and wires on and no more backfiring. I pulled the timing down to 10 degrees base, adjusted the carb and the motor seems to like it. Crossing my fingers. Thanks guys for all your help trying to trouble shoot the truck. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Here’s a few pictures from today because life is better with pictures! Notice I ran some NiCop around the back of the intake for fuel delivery to the carb. I sand blasted the air filter assembly getting it ready for paint. I also sand blasted the tag and air deflector. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
The top won’t actually sit flush on the main body of the assembly. It’ll stick up about an inch or so once I get a filter for it. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
I’m going to paint it silver Hotfr8 and put the factory oil bath decal on it. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
That's a great combination: Converted oil-bath air cleaner and converted oil filter canister to master cylinder reservoir. Touches like these are what makes a project stand out. Despite the modern Windsor engine, it tells us that its still a 1948 engine bay. Would the air cleaner be painted in a hammer-tone color?
I hadn’t thought about a hammer tone Osage. The few pics I googled showed the air filter assembly as either an argent silver or black. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Rustoleum hammered finish in silver. ZERO prep, just rolled it on with a $1.79 4” throwaway foam roller. 8 years later it still looks as good.
Period-appropriate options. Dan, that's given me some ideas on some projects of my own, and its a good visual for HiVolt to weigh along with those two stock colors.
Painting pin stripes on the grill is about to get real!! I made a template to try and keep the tape centered. Hope it works! No turning back now. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
The deed is done. I definitely won’t quit my day job to become a pin striper. From a distance it’ll look good, up close ... not so much. But I gave it my best shot. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
So I’ve been working on the master cylinder lid to work with the remote reservoir (oil canister). If you have a GM or early Ford master cylinder you can purchase an aluminum lid but since I’m using a different MC I had to come up with my own. At first I was going to try and make one out of flat stock but decided to try and modify the stock lid. So full disclosure, I’m not an expert in the fluid dynamics of a brake system but since I’m using silicone brake fluid, which doesn’t absorb moisture I think I can get away with a few things most brake systems couldn’t when using DOT 3 or 4. Ok, the oil canister has two lines, the bottom line will feed the MC and the line on the side is my vent. I have the vent tube open to the air to allow the fluid to move back and forth between the MC and oil canister without creating a vacuum. Most MC lids have the rubber seal that flexes. One side seals the brake fluid and the other side has vents to the air. Side note here, I have three MCs to play with. The first one fell and broke a mounting ear off. The second was seeping a bit so I replaced it with another one. You will see two lids in the pictures. The rusty one was on the first MC. The modified one was on the second so the third lid I’ll keep as a backup. So here is how I modified the MC lid. First I had to seal off the vents in the lid. I used JBweld to fill the vent. I hammered this vent shut and the welded it. Then I cut the rubber seal so that fluid would flow between the two chambers without me having to install two fittings to feed each chamber. Next I drilled a hole and screw in the fitting. I used JB Weld to seal it to the lid. And this is what it will look like installed on the MC. Once the JB weld is good and dry I’ll install the lid and bleed the system. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
The Jalopy Journal
