On my Caddy I replaced the lifters with Chevy 327 chilled iron solid lifters running on a Crane Hi RPM Drag Cam . My Cad was a 331" bored and stroked to 400" with a Crankshaft Co. stroker kit.
Yes they do. But post #59 guy says he tried ARP and they had nothing foe him that went under the rocker covers. I was hoping to get the dimensions of the stock bolts for my own information.
Interesting. I bet you could go to a specialty bolt vendor and get something similar. Maybe these folks? http://www.rockerarms.com/index.html
So I understand you have the short studs. You are looking for eight 7/16 studs that are 7 inches long with 1 inch of thread on each end, and ten studs 5 inches long with the same ends. All of these studs are .388 body dia. I do not see any that are made to allow oil to flow to the rockers, or are different from the others. I doubt the wasp wasted body is necessary. But if you had studs that otherwise would work and can't do it yourself. I would turn yours to .388. MSC #:74540667 5 inch stud---
Out of curiosity I emailed ARP using the sizes from the pictured head bolts. I asked them if they had studs 1 inch longer than the bolts pictured and with t least 1 inch of thread on each end. No problem. They got them ready to ship. I don't know about the wasp wasted bolts being necessary for oil to the rockers. But if so, that is no problem either. So I am interested in what you decided to do?
Richfox Got some bolts from ARP that work for under valve covers Still plan on using stock bolts on each end of rocket shaft assembly to let the oil up Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Good. I thought they would have what you needed. If you want I will relieve the end bolts for you. You pay shipping
I asked the guy at ARP, and he wasn’t keen on grinding or turning them down in lathe... said it would weaken them a bunch What do you suggest? Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
i understand where he is coming from. That is the easy answer. But all the OEM bolts are cut smaller in the body. What is the tensile strength of the Cad bolts compared to the ARP? Cn they give you a number for the diameter you wish to go to? Could you open up the two blot holes that feed oil, up as far as the oil needs to go? How much clearance do you have now, with the ARP bolts? Or perhaps a small slot in the bolt hole to allow oil flow. Hard to say without seeing the heads and all.
Rich fox How hard would it be to use a screw machine or other type to ‘roll’ the diameter a little smaller? Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Very hard. I think I would consider seeing how much clearance you have with the existing bolt hole. Calculate the area of that clearance. I have run Bonneville motors with oil from a -4 hose with no ill effect. Rockers shouldn't need lots of oil. If your area is considerably less than a 1/4 inch hole, figure out how much more you need and open up the hole. It won't hurt anything to have two slightly larger bolt holes per side.
I measured the ID of an Earls -4 adapter at about .200 inch. So that would be an area of ..031 inch. Not much. If you don't want to do the math send me the size of the existing hole and the diameter of the ARP bolt, and I will calculate a drill size. For instance, I find the average 7/16 bolt laying around here to have a .432 dia shank. To have a hole with a .o31 greater area than that you would need to drill with a 31/64 drill. Your heads have plenty of iron supporting the bolt holes to allow this and you have other means for locating the head. So that may be your best answer. You might want to double check my math. Or if you just say the stock bolts had a .048 relief formed in them.So I need a .048 larger hole to compensate for the loss of the relief. You still come up with a 31/64 drill. So that is my suggestion.
One thing I don't think you mentioned was valve springs. I broke 3 at different times on my Olds not from over-rev but from old age In the case of the last one I found that next day air from KC to Polson, Mt takes 3 days and I put on another junk spring. I won't build another motor without new springs. Not super stiff but new. Egge probably has some or consult Ross Racing who also may sell studs [they do for Olds]. Pat
Guys, Got a question for you’s: do you know if anyone has found a double roller timing chain that has been made to fit a 365-390 cad mill? Also, I’ve heard that a later model harmonic balancer can be made to work (and improve/reduce vibrations), but cannot find any info on either subject Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
@ls1yj can you post the ARP part numbers you used if you have any? Are you running 331 or or the 390 heads?
Sproadster30, I will post if I can find the part numbers... I’ve got the 331 heads on currently... I found some 390 heads, but no plans to swap yet Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
@sproadster30 Here are the part numbers for the 331 heads Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Ran across a good deal, and couldn’t pass it up... dragged a ‘58 365 home yesterday... complete engine, pulled from a running low mileage caddy... everyone needs a back up motor Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
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