Well my old daily driver truck decided to spin a balancer on the crank of the 302. Motor is useless cause the balancer bolt hammering on it with a impact for 5 minutes straight came out about 3/4 of the way and seized up. So with no further dwelling on that I am piecing together a new 302 for the truck, I am leaning towards using a Powertrain Products explorer 302 long block for $2,640 with the GT40 heads and what I hope to be the proper '96-'97 torque building explorer roller cam. Aside from that everything else will be bolt on parts for my truck placed on this engine with it being the foundation. So far I am leaning away from reusing the old stock intake and 351cfm 2150 carb in favor of a Performer 302 intake from Edelbrock with a Edelbrock AVS2 series carb to top it off for its annular boosters. Down side is this carb is only offered in 500, 650, and like 800 cfm. I am leaning towards the 500 cfm option as I think 650 cfm is too much for a driver that wont turn past 4500 rpm due to a C6 trans and a 2.90:1 9 inch out back. I am either going to run the edelbrock 1" aluminum spacer or the Edelbrock EGR adapter once I verify which part between the carb and the dist/ignition system was the component that was calibrated for use with EGR. For me it doesn't matter I would just as soon as block it off. But if the dist/ignition system is calibrated with egr in mind then I will have to run it. Aside from that I am looking at the Edelbrock Throttle lever adapter #1483 for use on Automatic fords, said it will work with hooking up my throttle cable, my C6 kick down rod, and will accept cruise control hook up. I hope so Id hate to lose cruise since I use it. But now on to the juicy part that prompted me to make this post. I have a nagging question while I was making this parts list out right now, this question pertains to the oil pump. Since this motor is a late model motor going into a older vehicle I cant simply use oil specifications for the older vehicle. How ever a 302 oil pump from what I am seeing for a Melling is listed as fitting 1962 - 2001. So the big question High Volume or Standard Volume oil pump? I know from the tech classes I took years ago when I got into the field that thinner weight oil is in use because the tolerances in the bearings are tighter and thinner oil can be ran with the same pressure achieved. So in theory running 5w20 or 5w30 like a '96-'97 calls for I should see the same oil pressure as my old 302 had running 10w30 or 20w50. So my factory pressure gauge should still be in the normal. But nagging me is since I am doing this and have to buy a pump anyways I can save some money and go with a stock oem 302 pump which those had a spring pressure rating of 90 PSI and call it a day or I could spend $20 more and go with a high volume pump which also states its high pressure. To me I shouldn't need a high volume pump considering the engine is a roller engine and I will be running 5w30 synthetic oil post break in. Its just this is the first nagging question and I might have more to ask on here as I progress through my parts list.
With what you have outlined, all you will need is the standard pump .Imho high volume pumps are to make up for a build with big clearances . Either because of no machine work done for rebuild or to keep a worn out engine running just a little bit longer.
You don't need a high pressure pump on the street, but I don't see a problem with a high volume one. As to oil specs, I use what I use what I feel comfortable with, what I've always run and that is 10W40. That thin 5w30 might be all right if you live where winter temps get down below freezing a lot, but here in the South I personally don't think you need it that thin. Now there will be a big ass argument over oil specs and what to use when, but I trust what I've done that I know works. As to the EGR, I'd block it off. You can't feed anything, animal or machine, it's own waste without killing it. EGR is used to cool combustion temps down to keep from making some kinds of smog, as well as a feeble attempt to try and burn whatever didn't burn in the cylinder the first time. With it blocked off you can probably advance the timing a bit and get better power and mileage.
That's what I was thinking. I wrote down the M68 Melling oil pump which is stock pressure and stock volume then crossed it out and was fixing to write it down again. I just cant see using a high volume/high pressure pump. Now that could have just been me and someone might have made an excellent argument for it. That's the thing with the oil I might just run 10w30 in it anyways like I used to in this motor. Since I will be running synthetic post break in I should be fine since synthetic tends to lubricate better against wear. As far as winter goes, this past year is the coldest its gotten in a long time and that was into the mid 20`s. The EGR I want to block it off but this is a DSII ignition system on here. I am verifying that the DSII wasn't calibrated with EGR in mind for the tune of the DSII. If it is then it might be better to leave it on. But since I am changing the exhaust I might as well just go with the cheaper Edelbrock 1" spacer the 8714 one cause EGR works on back pressure in the exhaust and I wont have much with shorty headers, 2 1/2" dual exhaust to a single muffler then a single tail pipe out to the stock location. Right now the 302 I have in the truck I am running 12* with the EGR could probably have bumped it up higher. Without the EGR and with this new motor I am thinking of starting base timing around 12* and increasing it till it tries to bog the starter then back it off two degrees and leave it there. I also would hook up a hand vacuum pump to the vacuum advance and pump it up till my timing light shows 35* take note of vacuum then remove cap pump it up again and drill a hole in the dist to install a roll pin as a stop to prevent the vacuum advance from going past 35*. From everyone ive talked with Fords don't like total timing over 35* advance. The engine guy I know I don't know how many ford engines he fixed that way they were getting horrible gas mileage he pinned the dist to limit it to 35* total advance and the owners were amazed at how good the gas mileage was afterwards. One of the guys he was getting like 10 MPG city like I get after pinning the dist he was up to 17.5 MPG city. In any case I will give it a try as its a reman dist I picked up for $50 so its not like I am destroying a high dollar aftermarket dist.
Before I spent 3 grand I would be spending some more time on that crank bolt. But....that's just me. Just a hypothetical question but what will you do if the crank bolt strips and galls on the new engine?
Pressure and volume are related. If you attempt to push high volume through tight clearances the pressure goes up until the relief valve opens. The extra volume goes out the relief, which wastes the extra power it took to turn the pump. High volume pumps are for racing engines set up with larger bearing clearances.
Another thing about a high volume pump, they can potentially move so much oil, that it overwhelms the drain back and pumps the sump dry. This may not be a problem for normal driving but extended high RPM driving ( interstate speed) especially if you are a quart low....could be a problem.
What you say is true to a point. It can get to where more Pressure equals less Volume. For example....Fire Streams. A 2 1/2 inch fog nozzle will require at least 100 psi to operate effectively. On the other hand a 2 1/2 solid tip nozzle (straight through) requires 60-80 psi to operate effectively. The solid nozzles will move more water at a lower pressure. The pump will struggle to move that volume of water at fog nozzle pressure....100 psi through a solid nozzle....in fact it can't do it. The more it tries to move that volume at pressure the more it looses to friction. If there are multiple lines and multiple solid nozzles the pump must be in the volume setting which doubles the capacity of the pump but lessens the pressure. How does this relate to engines......? Just like the Fire Service it comes down to equipment. For high pressure you need the equipment for that pressure. Also you need the equipment for high volume ( more flow or mass moving vs less mass moving at higher pressure). With this theory, high pressure may actually mean less oil. For high pressure the equipment must be right. Tight tolerances. Special gaskets and so on. High volume.....looser tolerances and more reservoir as the pump moves more oil albeit at a lower pressure. In the end with stock equipment use stock stuff. Back when I did not know better I used a high volume pump in a 302. During the ( hot lash adjustment), we were losing a lot of oil even though we had the open top valve cover. Suddenly a bubbly froth comes from the rockers. At first we thought it was water but it was air in the oil. We had lost a good bit of oil during the adjustment but most was still up top. The stock pan reservoir was beginning to run dry. So high volume pumps require high volume pans. High pressure has it's requirements. Again in the end....go stock with an otherwise stock engine.
Oh believe me I messed with it three different Saturdays trying. I ended up using an impact this past Friday when I got off work early. I hammered on it for nearly 5 minutes straight with my 15/16 impact socket. The bolt came out to about 3/4 of the way out and its seized up to the point that its not turning any more. Hammering on the bolt just does nothing. Locking the spun balancer up does nothing either as I think the broken key fell out after I pulled the balancer out to see if the bolt was moving. So my option is crate long block and buy new what I want to replace. Right now I am at $3,993.05 which I can probably look and find these same pieces online else where for less money. For example the long block I have selected would come from PowerTrainProducts and they are charging $200 round trip shipping. Thing is I am also paying $350 for the core as I do not have a roller GT40 equipped core to send back. So I might need to contact them see if they can half the shipping to $100 since its one way shipping. But its priced at $2,639 with core and $200 shipping. I found out I can go local and get the Spartan/ATK reman engine DFX5 for a total of $2,589.99 which includes a $360 core charge. Difference is the one from P.T.P. comes with a 4 year warranty while Advance is only giving me a 3 year warranty. Its also like the dist gear I might be able to get a Comp Cams Composite gear for less than $114.99. Same goes with the Headman headers, might be able to pick them up cheaper than $272.67. Same can also be said for the Dorman Timing cover set that Summit has priced at $80.95. That is my line of thought. Trying to squeeze more fluid through a smaller opening increases the pressure to the point it causes the pressure relief to come into play. In the case of Ford pumps they were set with a 90 PSI pressure relief spring. So if I am putting out 100 PSI with a high volume pump then all that is being wasted dumping it back into the oil pan. That might be why I said screw it and went ahead and opted for the $38 standard volume Melling oil pump over their $60 high volume pump. For me once I move all my driving will be highway driving at 75 - 85 mph. I know at 70-75 mph I am turning right at to just over 2,500 rpm. That might be high enough for a high volume pump to dry out a 5 quart stock oil pan. That is what I decided to do just opt for a stock Melling oil pump. My next task is deciding if I can run a 2 piece fuel pump eccentric or if I am forced to run a 1 piece. If I can get by with a 2 piece I can get the Comp Cams engine finishing kit for $27 vs the Ford Performance parts 1 piece eccentric that is $70. I cant get a clear answer but it seems that more than a few people are stating if the cam gear is flat it uses a one piece fuel pump eccentric and if it has a raised pad it uses a two piece fuel pump eccentric. https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p...an-remanufactured-ford-engine-dfx5/20705527-P Based off the photo above which is the same photo for the 302 GT40 equipped engine it shows a raised pad on the cam timing gear so it looks like I can save money and run a two piece eccentric over the more expensive single piece. I also realized I most likely have a 164-tooth flex plate. Summit for my application listed two 157-tooth flex plates and one $120 164-tooth flex plate. Any way I went to RockAuto and for my application the part numbers I checked all came back as 164-Tooth only. So I am going with a cheaper Pioneer HD 50 oz imbalance 164-tooth felx plate for $71 vs $92 for the TCI 157-tooth option that was the cheapest on summit. Aside from all that I omitted the Edelbrock as I did some looking and found out the Summit M2008 series carb is built for Summit by Holley and it comes with annular boosters like I want since my 2150 has annular boosters. Well I can get a electric choke vac secondary 600 CFM Summit Racing M2008 series carb for $290 compared to the Edelbrock which was $380 for the 500 CFM AVS2 carb and a further $27 for the Ford throttle lever adapter which I don't need with the Summit carb as it has the Ford kick down made in.
The Jalopy Journal
