I'm rewiring King Of Trucks, my '55 second series truck. I have a factory style replacement harness. The factory ammeter has four terminals and the instructions say put one wire on terminal "A", one on "B", and so on for C & D. Problem is I don't know what is what on the back of the ammeter. Any help out there? As always, thanks in advance for the help and thanks for this great forum.
Thanks bud. But I'm not sure if that helps me or not. Being that you have three terminals instead of four, that is. Can anybody else with an ammeter with four terminals check it out for me? And thanks again for the help squirrel. You're one of the guys that makes this place great.
My ammeter does have four terminals, but only three wires are connected to it. What are the colors of the wires in your harness, that connect to the ammeter?
I am a total moron. There is no "A" or "B" terminal on the ammeter, only "C" and "D". Still four terminals on the back of the ammeter. I must've been misreading my instructions and thought the "A" terminal for some other something was for the ammeter. Here is what the instructions I have say go to the ammeter... Ammeter "C" (red wire) goes to Headlamp Switch "Bat" Ammeter "C" (different red wire) goes to Ignition Switch "Bat" Ammeter "D" (black wire) goes to Starter Switch "Top Terminal" I have not wired up the ignition switch yet, it's got it's own set of issues (blades on the harness, rings on the switch. instructions show four terminals, my switch has three). So, for the moment, I'm just concerned with getting those three ammeter wires in the right spot on the back of the ammeter. Am I correct to assume that "C" and "D" stand for "Charge" and "Discharge" and correspond to the "D" and "C" as labeled on the front of the gauge? Or in other words, looking at the gauge from the front like you were driving, the two "C" wires would go to the right side on the back of the gauge and the "D" wire would go on the left on the back of the gauge. Am I close? And again, I appreciate the help. I sure do owe you one squirrel, you've bailed me out a bunch. ***EDITED TO ADD*** squirrel, I looked at your pic again, and it appears yours is wired like I described in my last paragraph. I think I've got it right now. And as far as progress goes, here's what I've got left to wire... headlight switch to ground fuel tank sender and ground stop switch to tail lamps four wires going to the ingnition switch (have to change terminals on the harness or get a different/correct ign. switch) This is not taking into consideration the cigar lighter or dome lamp. My harness didn't come with provisions for those. I had planned on getting a new dome lamp and cigar lighter anyway for some fresh shine (I'm replacing everything shiny in the interior) so I'll worry about those later (and they are super simple). Thanks a million again squirrel.
Jut connect the red and black wires how they are on my picture, should work fine. Sounds like someone put a "universal" ignition switch in your truck, to replace the original. It's nice to have the original because it has some extra terminals on it to connect accessories like the cigarette lighter. The dome light should connect directly to the light switch, assuming you have the original light switch (not a "universal" replacement)
I think I will get a new ignition switch, they're not very expensive, less than $15. It'll save the pain of stripping wires and adding ring connectors (and remove one more item from the "how old?/could be questionable" list). I do still have the stock headlamp switch, but I bought a new one in case I destroyed the old trying to get it out (another previous owner ruined the slot in the retaining bezel, par for the course, lol). Anyway, the new headlamp switch is exactly like stock and has a spot for the dome light. The headlight switch was pretty easy, it was labeled well and just like factory. It seems like a lot left but in reality, I'm almost done. Thanks goodness. I should be driving it again tomorrow. That is, until I start installing the two pot intake and carbs I bought today. Then we start this screwed up train of asking dumb questions all over again, lol.
I wonder where you're gonna find a new stock ignition switch for $15? does that include the lock cylinder? and the bezel?
You're right. I was looking at the wrong thing in the catalog. Stock switch is $40, cylinder and bezel are extra. About $50 total. Universal switch is $15.
Quite a timely post as I have just come in from wiring up my truck today. Got to the ammeter and sort of decided to call it a night.... Will be watching the outcome with interest. P.
Paul, I think I figured it out. I was misreading the instructions. There are four terminals on my ammeter ('55 2nd series) but only three wires go to it. The ammeter terminals are called "D" and "C". They correspond to the actual letters on the front of the ammeter gauge. The wire that goes to "Terminal D" goes to the terminal on the back of the ammeter on the same side as the "D" on the front of the gauge. Same thing with "Terminal C". At least that's what I think I figured out, lol. Cheers mate and good luck.
Hello , Yes I know this is a 9 year old post but I am having trouble with my 55 Chevy second series trucks AMP meter . I have it wired like Jims above IF the wire on the charge side goes to the battery [ starter ] and the wires on the discharge side go to the ignition switch and alternator ..... WITHOUT starting the truck if I turn on the headlights shouldn't the needle go to the discharge side showing a draw on the system ? I get nothing , I have switched it all to just the opposite and still nothing . I had an extra stock AMP meter and get the same result so I tried an aftermarket AMP meter again nothing . The battery is charged and all the wires have continuity or are hot . Can anyone give me a hint as to what may be wrong ? THANKS ! Dan P.s. I guess I should also say the light switch was stand alone to breaker box so I jumped it to the ignition switch to test and still nothing . Should the light switch go THROUGH the Amp Meter ? [I don't need the "smoke " test this late in the game ]
The light switch should be on the same side of the ammeter as the ignition switch, alternator, and everything else (except the battery). Is it? or do you have the light switch connected to the battery side of the ammeter?
Jim , Yes I had everything on the "truck side " on one post and the battery on the other .. I di take some advise here and hooked a volt meter and left the Amp meter unhooked for now , I just like to have all my gauges working .. Thanks Dan
I don't know....the ammeter on my old truck jumps to D when I turn on the lights, with the engine not running.
Yea I am a little confused also because I had 3 amp meters that did the same thing ..nothing ..so the problem is defiantly on my end .. Thanks Dan
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