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Termites and Bowties- Early Chevy Group

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by 29bowtie, Jan 7, 2009.

  1. jgrohio
    Joined: Aug 11, 2011
    Posts: 158

    jgrohio
    Member
    from NE Ohio

    31chevymike likes this.
  2. All thin wall 1 1/2 tube. Its not like a car where you can spread it out . Original wood was 1 1/2 as well . Not to concerned with weight as I dont need to pick up a few seconds on the strip
    LOL
     
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  3. Six Ball
    Joined: Oct 8, 2007
    Posts: 5,776

    Six Ball
    Member
    from Nevada

    Though the guidelines here are pretty strict guys building real drivers usually get some slack when it comes the rear ends and transmissions. You might get crap for a rack and pinion but probably not a gear box. It seems to be more forgiving on this thread maybe because the cob up their butt guys mostly build Fords. :eek:
     
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  4. 31chevymike
    Joined: Feb 9, 2008
    Posts: 1,281

    31chevymike
    Member

    Tell it like it is Six Ball!
     
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  5. No rack and pinion , just a toyota pwer steering box that is side steer !! Someday it will be traditional LOL
     
    31chevymike likes this.
  6. we had a front splash apron for a 33 blasted and realized it could be used to give a Dorf a little class. not that anyone would waste a good one, on one of these turds but it sure is an improvement.:D;):cool: DSCF0007.JPG
     
  7. That is a beautiful apron here in Ontario Canada LOL
     
    Bowtie Coupe and tb33anda3rd like this.
  8. it will be perfect when i am done with it.....:)
     
  9. madmike3434
    Joined: Aug 14, 2009
    Posts: 691

    madmike3434
    Member

    dorf.... = Dumb Old Rat Fink ???

    mike lynch
     
    Bowtie Coupe likes this.
  10. Torkwrench
    Joined: Jan 28, 2005
    Posts: 2,713

    Torkwrench
    Member

    Ford spelled backwards? At least that's what it means in Northern Illinois. LOL.
     
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  11. i didn't want to use the "F" word on a chevy thread.
    "For only real dorks":D:cool:
     
    Last edited: Mar 26, 2018
    Bowtie Coupe, cactus1 and Fern 54 like this.
  12. Hey I resemble that remark!!! 20170829_213309.jpg 20161006_133546.jpg
     
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  13. we all have our short comings......:eek::D:cool:
     
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  14. Six Ball
    Joined: Oct 8, 2007
    Posts: 5,776

    Six Ball
    Member
    from Nevada

    Here's the only Ford I own. GM didn't make this style.

    100_0938.jpg
     
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  16. fastest32
    Joined: Jul 25, 2013
    Posts: 41

    fastest32
    Member
    from austin

    What is everyone running for rear springs? I’m not exactly sure what springs my dad put in there when he built this thing but I’d like to replace them.
     
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  17. primed34
    Joined: Feb 3, 2007
    Posts: 1,407

    primed34
    Member

    I'm running rebuilt stock springs on my '34. Got a new set also should I ever need them.
     
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  18. madmike3434
    Joined: Aug 14, 2009
    Posts: 691

    madmike3434
    Member

    Whats the problem with the leaf springs you have on the car now ?
    my 35 coupe had 8 leaves per side in the back and 9 in the front. I was running a 371 cube......57 olds all steel/cast iron and heavy. I never needed track bars out back as I could always turn the tires easily.

    mike lynch
     
  19. fastest32
    Joined: Jul 25, 2013
    Posts: 41

    fastest32
    Member
    from austin

    The old springs that are on there seem really weak. I need to redo the spring perches on the axles and figured that would be a good time to rpelace the springs . I was wondering if anyone was running speings that came off of something else. Something I could find on craigslist or at a junkyard .
     
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  20. 31chevymike
    Joined: Feb 9, 2008
    Posts: 1,281

    31chevymike
    Member

    You can look into having them re-arched like I told Mike @drifter9 when I gave him my original leaf springs for the front. They're steel right? The best process in re-arching them I believe is when they're cold.
     
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  21. fastest32
    Joined: Jul 25, 2013
    Posts: 41

    fastest32
    Member
    from austin

    @madmike3434 .I was looking at some of your posts on here and you might have the exact info I need for setting up my front end. I ordered a front end from Sid. I'm getting the 48-54 chevy truck front end because it has the same dimensions as the 32 Chevy front end . You're saying its still gonna be too wide? I think he can narrow it at the same time he drops it. I was going with a 3 inch drop .
     
    Last edited: Mar 27, 2018
  22. madmike3434
    Joined: Aug 14, 2009
    Posts: 691

    madmike3434
    Member

    FASTEST32..........the 3" drop is 3 inches more than what you presently have. In order to get the car lower you also have to take into consideration the wheels and tires you want to run.

    If using your picture avatar as an example of your car, if you drop that 3" with 50" wide axle, your tires are going to sit directly under bead of the fender. Maybe even right on the bead of the fender. The backspacing on your wheels will effect how far they stick out. You have a fair amount outward offset in whats there already. You need to go other way. A 15 x 6 wheel with 4" back space or 3 1/2" is the preferred offset I used. I used GM rallye wheels . The wire wheels I am running on front of my coupe are Dayton 15 x 5 with 2" backspace. Tires are 185 x 65 x 15 Generals. On both of my cars the tires are inside the fenders

    Measure the center of the front bumper bracket on frame from ground. Write that down. Put axle stands on frame and undo & remove the front springs from the axle and the frame. Now put jack under the axle and raise it approximately 3". Now you can definitely see where your existing wheels and tires are going to sit. To get an idea of where you need the axle width to be, pull axle assembly sideways to where its completely inside the fender . I had to go 3" narrower per side ( 44 inches total ). That was on a maxi drop of 4 1/2" over stock. Now turn the wheel tires and see if they can operate without hitting the fender. 1932 fenders have a lot less rollover the sides at the tire axle, than 33--35 >

    Originally my friend Buie Brown ordered a 3" mor-drop for his 30 chev and asked me to clear it thru customs for him. I took it home and installed in my 35 chev with spindles and tires. That's where I discovered the problem of width and fenders sitting right on top of tires. Began pulling it inward until it would clear the fender and turn. That was 2" narrower per side , 4" total king pin center to king pin center. I ended up going 44" total 3" per side.

    Here is where things get real tough. When you drop the axle 3" the axle itself gets a lot lower towards the ground, reducing your ground clearance. You will also need to bend the steering arms to clear the springs either over or below. Shorten or make a new tie rod bar as its now 4--6" narrower .

    You may or may not run into this problem. Using side steering box, like a mustang 65--72 ?? mounted upside down on frame, depending on the width of the tires and the amount of scrub the tires have. The axle may pull and bend backwards at the top due to the leverage your putting on it. You might have to make a rod running from frame to the top of the axle with spherical rod ends ( heim joints ) in it, to stop the axle top moving rear ward when turning.

    Depending on what LOOK YOU WANT, it can be a real pain in ass trying to get a chevy lower and IN-DA-DIRT look. Your into reversing the spring eyes on the main leaves to lower it slightly. De-arching springs.
    I did all that and was a lot of work to get it too where I wanted it.

    To sum up , would be easier to use a SUPER BELL 4" dropped forged tube axle that you can buy with 44--46" width, go to ford cross spring front from posies super slide and a 4 bar set up. No matter what you do its going to cost. My coupe with Dayton wires and KUGEL IFS.

    Others will have opinions to post here and listen to what they have to say.

    BUT , tell us exactly what you want to have in a finished car look. IN DA DIRT , regular sitting , GASSER look up in air front

    mike lynch my 35 coupe g.jpg
     
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  23. fastest32
    Joined: Jul 25, 2013
    Posts: 41

    fastest32
    Member
    from austin

    @madmike3434 thank you . The axle that is under it right now is out of a g10 van which measures 54 inches king pin to king pin . The axle I'm getting is 50.5 kp to kp . I definitely want it low and narrower than it is now. I already have all the brakes to fit the axle I'm ordering from Sid and I don't want to go to the whole Ford set up . hopefully did can narrow the axle I'm ordering from him . Not sure how much he can though . You're saying I need 2 inches on either side?
    I'm going with the 3 inch drop . I can mess with the springs if I want to go lower but I measured a 4 inch drop from where my axle is now and it would be super close to the ground. Like too close .
     
  24. Torkwrench
    Joined: Jan 28, 2005
    Posts: 2,713

    Torkwrench
    Member

    Speaking of springs, I'm trying to get the front suspension straightened out on my 34 Master. The Knee Action was replaced with a stock axle and parallel leafs out of a 1950 Chevy 1/2 ton. The width of the axle is OK, with how it will sit. However, the axle ended up too far back by roughly 2 1/2 ".

    The front spring eye and mounts are already installed as far forward on the frame as possible. About the only solutions that I've thought of, are to either get a pair of 1950 Chevy 1/2 ton springs, with the center locating bolt moved forward 2 1/2 inches, or to use 34 Chevy Standard springs.

    Would either of these be a good choice? Since a 34 Master is heavier than a 34 Standard, (plus my 34 will be running an early Caddy V8), would the Standard springs be strong enough? Would moving the center bolt forward on the 1/2 ton springs mess up the front end alignment? What other possible solutions are there?

    It also sticks in my mind that a solid axle was an option on 34 Masters, (for those that didn't trust the new Knee Action suspension), although I can't find where I read that. As a result, I may be thinking of something else. However, if this is true, perhaps a new set of these springs could be used.

    As far as the build style, the plan is for an era correct late 50's / early 60's drag car. I don't like to call it a gasser, (due too the overuse of the term), but basically that is what it will be.

    4.jpg

    I'm also planning to change out the steering box,(currently a 1959 Chevy 1/2 ton), and go to cross steering. However, that is another set of questions, all together. LOL.
     
  25. madmike3434
    Joined: Aug 14, 2009
    Posts: 691

    madmike3434
    Member

    FASTEST. Only way the axle gets higher distance from the ground , is with TALLER TIRES and most likely 75 series. I ran skinny VW tires from 60's still mounted on the cragar SS wheels. Would have to pull a lot of HOT WHEELS in cases my son has in that room to see what they are. If you go to TIRERACK . com ? all the dimensions on their site.

    You want to start with a 1940--1954 1/2 ton truck as axle is only 50" K to K center and start the drop from there. Use 49--53 chev passenger car spindles and drum brakes or switch to disc fronts. I have a NOS stock 40-54 axle for 1/2 tons in my storage shed.

    You want lower and narrower , you have to start with narrower axle to begin with !

    By going with the super bell, welding spring mount pads on it and starting at 46" wide for 33-34 ford your way ahead of the game. Why beat yourself up and bang head on wall trying to do it the hard way. I was down this road a long time ago over a period of years, until my head hurt from all the banging.

    Picture of how my coupe sat with 4 1/2" drop over stock, MOR DROP bent axle to 44"..........6" narrower than stock 50". I still have it standing in a corner. Would have to ship in a custom made crate and by transport company. Too heavy for UPS or FED-X ??================mike lynch
    DSCF2899.JPG DSCF2901.JPG DSCF2899.JPG
     
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  26. fastest32
    Joined: Jul 25, 2013
    Posts: 41

    fastest32
    Member
    from austin

    @madmike3434 So the axle you have is a 40-54.5 that was narrowed six inches? In trying to see how narrow sid can go . If he can narrow it that much or close to it then I'd be in the same boat you were in. I definitely want to go lower and narrower but I don't want more than a 3 inch drop . We'll see what sid says on how much narrower he can make it. I would rather stay with the Chevy axle since I already have the car brakes on it . Wait. Do the car brakes fit on the truck spindles?
     
    Last edited: Mar 27, 2018
  27. madmike3434
    Joined: Aug 14, 2009
    Posts: 691

    madmike3434
    Member

    Fastest32.........I have 2 axles. 1.... A stock NOS truck axle thats 50" kp to kp. 2....I also have the same 1940--1950 axle that has been dropped 4 1/2 " more than stock on a maxi drop, ya I over did it big time. But that's typical of me. 3" would be safer drop and more traditional. The maxi drop and stretch inward from 50 kp to kp down to 44 " kp to kp looks like a texas long horn.

    I tore the beam axle out of the car in 1996 and as far as I can remember I used 1949--1954 chev pass car spindles and brakes. Believe there was some kind of problem with getting the pass car brakes to work on the truck spindles? Those same pass car spindles were used on corvettes 1953---1962 .

    I know when I adapted 1967-68 camero 4 piston disc brakes to the pass car spindles, a special spacer ring had to be made. Also the adaptor bracket kit I purchased did not fit the truck spindles but did the pass car.

    Simply for visual appearance , you want the complete tire inside the fender lip. Looking at your pictured avatar if you drop the car it better be narrower to pull tires in .

    mike lynch
     

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