Projects FED with killer Flathead

Hi Mark. Fixed the hole with chemical metall. I'm gone fill the block with Block-Rock up to the exhaust ports, the rest will be filled with water. This area around the intake port is not critical when it comes to heat.
Hope this makes sence ?

/K

 

Thanks for the answer, yep makes since...
I need to look into the chemical metal, Ive ground a couple holes myseif, I always braze them, and Its not fun to do.
Love your rail too.

 

Thanks

Slowly, slowly getting stuff done. Hope to get the engine back together this year Block Rock from Moroso is in the house...

/K

 

probably need to stay away from the juice there Kjell.................

 

Keep after it Kjell . . . even on the slow days, is always a good time to turn some wrenches and get an old flattie back on the track!

 

Keep at it Kjell , we used the Moroso stuff in ours also

 

Thanks for the encuragement guys Yep, did not get the engine back together in 2016, but now we are getting somewhere. Finally the engine has been line-bored, took some time to get the mains to fit the new block, as it differed alot. I have had time to ponder on the last passes, and also seen some havoc on other engines, OHV's. I do belive it is critical to have really good spark to ignite the alky, so now I have just gotten a brand spanking new Hunt H3 in the house I'll keep you posted on the future progress

 

Very nice, Love your youtube video ...

 

Thanks Mark

 

keep us informed Kjell........ good luck in 2017

 

Thanks Carl I'll do

 

Obs! see that we already are in 2018 So no racing in 2017, but 2018 looks promising

 

Go gettum Kjell................

 

Come on Kjell - we have Carl all jacked up on Alky now . . . you better get your arse in gear! LOL

 

Yes Dale, my arse has been glued to a chair way tooo long But work have been my first prio for some time now, working full time on engines Back to the important engine, it's painted and got a package from the US today. Dale, I will do something you told me long time ago, change the timing gears to early style, making the camshaft trust towards the block, I have allready drilled a tiny passage from the trust surface into the oil channel. Also got new main bearings from King. Another package are on the way with new Cometic head gaskets, and also an AFR logger (2 channel). Hopefully we will get to monitor the poor old Flathead, preventing another "China Syndrom" Cheers K.

 

Hey Kjell - now that I've written my fuel injector program software - was wondering if you could send me your pump flow numbers (hopefully at 4,000 RPM - GPM at 100 psi) along with your nozzle sizes, your spring lbs for the idle check and your main pill size. I'd like to see how it compares to some other things I'm working on. Also, have you ever had your rail on a dyno - would love to know if you know the HP it makes with your current tune. Maybe my program can help us better understand your tune in general??? Take care my ole' friend! D

 

Great thread ...

 

Hey Dale Now that software is very interesting Ok lets see. The current set-up: Hilborn 150C-1 pump 6,7 GPM, think it's @4000rpm. 4x64A Hilborn Nozzles. Main bypass are set to open @ 6 psi, size .75. Idle bypass set to 14 psi, pill 160. HS, pill 55 @67 psi. I'm about to order nozzles for the new set-up with port-nozzles With port-nozzles it's gone be alot of hoses, but I think it's gone look ok,
Roger hade to make some repair after my port job, and he also made a really nice distribution block

 

Finally something done All rings are gapped, so just a couple of evenings with some more assembly, and the long block will be ready

 

Hey Kjell: I can run the fuel requirements for your setup - are you going to now run 4 nozzles in the hat and 8 port nozzles as well? Did you run a highspeed bypass before? I don't have this in my software, but it is strictly a calculation based on the area of the pill. When you say '160' and '55' for pill sizes - I assume you mean .160" and .055" - am I correct? Did you only run the 4 in the hat before? If so, you'll need to reduce the size of the hat nozzles, now that you'll have 12 total. Also, we used a pressure canister before the port nozzle block with about a 10 PSI spring in it - so that we didn't dribble fuel into the ports until the pressure came up. How are you plumbed? Can you send me a diagram.

 

Hi Dale. Those values and sizes are from the old/current set-up. Yes .160 and .055 are pill sizes. We ran with thhe high speed opened @ 67psi. Only 4x64A in the hat.
When we switch over to port nozzles, we will also change the set-up, with a bypass canister to open to feed the port nozzles. I'll send you the print out of the new set-up. Thanks

 

Draw me a diagram of the complete injector system - return lines, bypass lines, nozzles, jets/pills, etc.. It is nice to see how the whole thing is plumbed.

 

Damn that block looks good, I've not seen a block with clearance notches in the cylinder walls for the rods before, what stroke you run if you dont mind me asking ?
And looks like roller lifters ?
Very nice, I remember seeing a video of you running the engine, impressive ...

 

lookin great Kjell...... would love to see her run (at Eagle preferably)

 

Last ime it ran, before toasting the old block, 9.05 out in the clip.

 

their english is sure funny.......... nice launch

 

Mark, to clear the block I had to notch out some. The stroke is 4 1/8" and beefy Crower rods.
Roller lifters and cam are also supplied from Crower

//KBS

 

Great thread, Kjell. I wish I was here earlier. You've developed a textbook of information on building a competitive flathead-powered dragster.

I'd like to add a couple of additional tricks you might find useful in the future. First, a bit more of D-porting on a French block; they really do square off well on the short radius. This is one I did for the Fuller streamliner; no results so far, but we're hopeful.




For the next time you get into a bottom end, you can shed some weight -- 6-8 pounds -- from a SCAT stroker crank, eliminate stress risers, and substantially reduce windage with some aero reshaping.

 

Thanks Kjell, I love Crower stuff, I have a very nasty Crower setup in my big block Ford ..
Damn that crank looks good Mike,
Here's the block I did for my coupe,

 

Thanks guys The reason for not D-porting more, is that the ports needs to match the port of the intake runners. Both blocks really looks nice. Thanks to all who have posted on this thread, spesially big thanks to Bored&Stroked !