So we have decided to take a break on our Buick for the next 19 days to help my dad get his 54 f100 ready for NSRA southwest Nats in OKC. So here is my question: painting this truck in 19 days is not an option what primers are out there now that we can shoot the truck in and be able to drive it like that for a little while and be able to do body work over the top of later? He prefers a flat black primer but not sure if there is anything like that.. Any suggestions Thanks
DP90 would be ok as long as it’s kept out of the elements. It seems to get “ashy” quickly in the sun and I’m not sure but I don’t think it’s a sealer so it tends to absorb moisture and other contaminants that could make it hard to work with down the road. I’m not a pro body guy that’s just been my experience with it. We’re doing the custom work and body work on the truck in my avatar right now and a couple of the body guys in our club have told me to make sure I get a true sealer if I’m not going to topcoat the finish for a while.
Southern Polyurethane's black epoxy primer is excellent. It has UV inhibitors so it doesn't chalk up like DP90. It's a bunch cheaper too.
According to the PPG DPLF epoxy primer product information sheet it can be converted to a sealer by adding the recommended amount and type of reducer. I've used much of it both ways. For use on the street, sealers used according to directions and without a top coat, won't offer much protection.
I have never used DP90LF and let it cure and tried to sand it and continue later because it's a bitch to sand. But DP is tough as nails. Doing many corvettes I use to shoot the raw glass with DP, let it get tacky and Immediately put a urethane primer over it, maybe two or three good coats. Then come back and block the urethane primer as needed and seal and shoot color. But then I always did all my bodywork Before the DP. So all I had was blocking the urethane primer to do. Most people believe in doing their bodywork Over the epoxy. I ain't one of them. Your results may vary. JMO. Lippy
I am in the market for almost the same. But I am going to keep mine this way. I am interested to see what you guys suggest also.
PPG EPX epoxy 908 should be the black its from their commercial line, has a 1:1 mix ratio the tech guy claims its the old DP 90 lays down real nice and a lot cheaper to use than the newer epoxies from the automotive line
Like both PPG and So. Poly epoxies... but especially SP considering price. I've routinely sprayed cleaned, bare metal with epoxy, stored the part and pick it up again months later for finishing. Always sand before proceeding. Have had equally good results with sanding then filler work or with sanding, re-apply epoxy, then filler work. Probably feel most comfortable with re-applying epoxy first and getting filler down while epoxy coat is still open. So. Polyurethane specifies 7 days max for filler over epoxy without sanding first.
SPI epoxy primer. Spray it, use it and it will look the same next year. The black has a satin sheen to it. Paint it and do bodywork over it. Great customer service and prices
Maybe I missed it, but do any of these primers, protect the work from the elements, without top coating? As far as I know primers will soak up water, and wreck any work you have already done. Please correct me if I'm wrong. Tony
2 part primers most likely protect better than 1 part primers but in general primers are not designed to protect from elements w/o top coating. "Use at your own risk" applies here.
Epoxy primers will not soak up water. They are 2 part catalyzed and become a solid foundation between properly prepared metal and paint finishing. SPI has UV inhibitors and will keep its satin sheen for quite some time.
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